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Defender_300Tdi

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Everything posted by Defender_300Tdi

  1. That's my truck! Ben, to answer your question and as I guess you might have seen if you had a look at my D44 build thread, yes I had my B/C Posts galvanized and a whole heap of other parts as well. I had already had a couple of bulkheads done and a chassis so getting my B/C Posts done seemed like the next logical step. Make sure that the drain holes in the bottom of both the B and C posts are clear (so the zinc can run out), try to get someone who cares about what they are doing when you have the metal prep'ed before you send them off to be galv'ed. The chap who did mine ended up bead blasting them as he said that shot or sand blasting would just distort them due to the force and heat generated by either process. My sills "bowed" slightly from the heat of the galvanizing process, but this was an easy fix before they went to paint. If i was doing it again I would fab up jig from a piece of steel to run from the forward part of the sill to the top of the b-post and then down to the c-post to tie it all together (it might work?!). The company I used (Wedge Group) did the dripping to an Offshore Specification which means that the zinc is seriously thick! If you need to know more just drop me a message. Cheers Rob
  2. They also supplied the first water pump as well....I will give them a ring later on today and post up the results. Interestingly enough, the vehicle and I are now located in Australia and my dealer over here has been supplying exactly the same pump. They are definitely genuine and come out of genuine parts box all sealed up. Regards Rob
  3. Mike, Thanks for the replies so far. Its all very odd! I like to do things properly and this is extremely annoying. I have a picture of another waterpump, I believe this to be supplied by Britpart. http://s795.photobucket.com/user/rcsprason/media/STC1086-300TDI-WATER-PUMP_zpsa25dc575.jpg.html'> Worth the risk? Regards Rob
  4. None of the bolts were bent and they are the newer coated type. All mating faces were checked to see if they were true and all were flat on a straight edge. The fracture is happening on the same "web" on each water pump (I have now been through three genuine pumps including the original). All bolts were torqued up to 10Nm first, opposite side/alternating, then going round them again up to 25Nm as per the manual. I have owned 300Tdi's for 10 years plus and I have never seen this type of failure before. A friend who is a NDT Technician carried out some dye penetrant testing on the pumps and this has confirmed that they have all fractured in the same location. I am at a loss as to why the first one lasted 10,000km and the second and third didn't even make 1km. Apologies that my pictures didn't show or tell that much, please see pictures below of None Destructive Testing results, the red line is the crack, I think its pretty clear: Both the pumps with red marker dye sprayed on, the original pump is the lower one in the picture. Rear of the pump with the fracture in red (original pump): Front of the original pump: Front of the 2nd pump clearly showing the fracture: Rear the of the original pump, alternator and PAS pump housing (Part no. ERR3736) where it bolts up to the block, no signs of fractures: Note that the third pump was still on the vehicle at the time of testing, but it has definitely fractured in the same location. Having had a chat with a friend, we are thinking that the gasket maybe too thick and as the pump is tightened up this is causing it to distort, why this is the case I do not know, because as I have said all the faces as flat. I am going to try one more new pump with just RTV silicon as the gasket. If that fails I am completely out of ideas. Cheers Rob
  5. Hi All, As the title suggests, my water pump housing on my 300Tdi has cracked, or rather appears to have cracked. So I went out and bought a genuine parts water pump and gasket and changed it out, note: I also changed the P-Gasket at the same time as this gets disturbed when changing the water pump. So re-filled with coolant, ran up to temperature and low and behold the new pump starts leaking in exactly the same place. So I did some more research and found that the aluminum casting that the water pump sits in can warp, well fine I thought, so I went a bought a new casting (part number ERR3637), another new water pump, new gasket and another P-Gasket. I changed the whole lot today, re-filled with coolant and run up to temperature. The new pump has cracked as well, in exactly the same place! I am at a lose end to explain why this has happened to all three pumps. All the bolts were torqued to 25NM as per the manual. The orginal pump had done in the region of 10,000Km before the crack appear, but the following two didnt even make 1km. The engine was a reconditioned unit from Turner Engineering in the UK. This was the original first crack: You can just see the hairline crack to the right of the bolt head: Aluminum Casting removed (first attempt at repair): Not very relevant, but shows the new casting all fitted up: So any ideas what is going on with my engine? Could the acutal block be warped? It's not loosing any water, the cooling system doesn't appear to be pressured and there is no water in the oil. Cheers Rob
  6. Although I faced a similar situation to yourself, I had the option of an upgrade to a 300Tdi due to my decision to reuse the old chassis and weld on new 300Tdi engine mounts before I then had it shot blasted and galvanized. I sourced a local complete 300Tdi which was alleged to have covered 77K, I didn't mind this as I was buying it for the ancillaries because I had already made the choice to go with the Turner short block and performance head. As you have the engine in an extremely accessible state I would seriously consider getting your injection pump and injectors reconditioned, also think about the radiator, hoses,oil cooler pipes etc as the last thing you want is something to fail on you leading to a melt down etc! I plan on never selling my vehicle so the cost was justified in my mind as its an investment... Here is a couple of pictures of the work: Crate was built to send the completed engine from Aberdeen (where I lived and worked) to Devon (where the Defender was being rebuilt...) Engine meets gearbox! In and running: Anyways that just my little story! Rob
  7. I have to buy new or source some replacements as someone has been angle grinding next to the doors and ruined the glass, not me and where bought on ebay un-seen Anyway, I was aware of the thickness change and I believe I am correct in saying they are 4mm from 1987 onwards? In view of this are the part numbers I have listed above correct? Regards Rob
  8. Ok, I brought a set of Defender Td5 doors, the thing is I dont know how old they are and I need to order some glass for them. They have Land Rover Genuine Parts electric windows and genuine parts central locking. They have grey door cards and I believe they are pre-2006 due to not being the one piece type. But I need the part numbers for the correct glass. I am after the green tinted style. Interior Shot: Door Locks and Central Locking: I believe the part numbers: ALR4774 Door Glass - Front - Tinted - Green - RH - Genuine Land Rover ALR4772 Door Glass - Front - Tinted - Green - LH - Genuine Land Rover All help much appreciated! Regards Rob
  9. Thanks guys for all the replies! I think I have it sort of figured out, it turns out the diaphragm was orientated completely wrong, I had a look at another truck which I knew was still standard in terms of fuelling and then set mine to standard, followed by then turning the diaphragm to the recommended Allisport position. Also the star wheel required some adjustment; the current set up is now much improved with better get up and go. It only smokes a small amount of black when you are working it in 3rd and initially at start off, compared with the original set up where it just would not smoke at all. All the pipes, hoses and fitting were checked and found to be correctly fitted (everything was new so I don’t expect any breakage/delamination) I think the next course of action is to get some more miles on the clock, get the engine loosed up and everything bedded in and then possibly turn the smoke screw on the back of the pump 1/4 of turn. I say this because I think with the different turbo, bigger intercooler and performance head it is running lean across the rev range due to perhaps getting too much air. I’ll also get an EGT gauge hooked up pronto. Les, how well does your truck go? To be honest I am little disappointed with the VNT, my old 300Tdi 90 with a standard turbo and intercooler still goes better than my 110…. Here is a pic the completed truck! Regards Rob
  10. Hi All, Bit of history first, I have been driving my rebuilt 110 CSW around for 750 miles or so (this was a full rebuild/restoration), as a part of the rebuild the engine was exchanged for a Turner Engineering short block 300Tdi with a performance head, all new ancillaries were fitted (including a Genuine LR Lift-Pump), the injection pump was full reconditioned by a diesel specialist and the turbo was replaced with one of IRB Developments Variable Vane turbos. The intercooler was also replaced with an Allisport drop in package. The truck does not have hardly any get up and go and pulling away in second requires some pretty heavy boot work. I have marked the injection pump diaphragm and rotated is a 1/4 of a turn as per the fueling instructions from Allisport, but this had no effect. I have measured the turbo boost and its hitting around 1.2 bar which according to IRB Developments is what it should be set to. It seems to struggle up hills with a noticeable reduction in speed. At first I thought it could be because it was rebuilt engine and could be quite "tight" but the more I drive it the more I am convinced that there must be something wrong with the injection pump. The unit was initially set up on the engine as it was assembled, using timing pins etc. The engine itself runs beautifully and I am around 99% sure its not a timing issue as surely it would hardly run at all, let a lone be drivable if it was timed wrong? So my question is, given the above what would you suggest would be the next course of action? I appreciate that the injection pumps are set up quite "green" out of the factory, but do you think this could be the issue? I am convinced it a fueling issue..... Thanks in advance Rob Here is picture of my nice looking, if a little ill engine....
  11. Here is mine: (Note this is a Devon4x4 Twin Battery Tray shown without the battery retaining strap) Containing 2 x Exide Maxxima. 1 x Additional fuse box (protected by a 60amp HD fuse). 1 x Albright HD contactor / isolator, monitored by a genesis battery monitoring system. Mounted on the front is the winch isolation switch and an Anderson jump start plug outlet. Regards Rob
  12. Thanks chaps as always! I will be putting in an order then for the HD 130 clutch plate then. Incidently, Valeo would be a good choice? At around 55 pounds? Cheers Rob
  13. Hi I am sure this has been asked before but can I used Part No. UQB000130G (130 Clutch Pressure Plate) with the normal 300Tdi Defender Clutch Cover Plate (URB100760G)? Or did Land Rover use an uprated Cover Plate as well and if so what part number is this? I only ask because I have replaced the clutch and cover plate with a standard 110 item, however I am planning on tuning the engine and adding a bit of weight to the vehicle so would prefer the 130 HD Clutch and uprated cover plate if I need it. If I dont then I can save myself the cost of a cover plate! Regards Rob
  14. Hi Paul, Thank you for confirming that. I have sent you a PM. Regards Rob
  15. HI Paul I will building the wiring loom and will be modding the switch as per the thread from Martin further up the page. On that basis do I need a different switch? Or is the one you sent me suitable? I have a feeling I need the non latching Defender HFS switch (YUG000460LNF) and then carry on the mod to the switch as per your instructions on the LRO thread. Sorry as always for the silly questions. Regards Rob
  16. Hi Paul Sorry to bring this post back from the dead, but could you please tell me if Pin 2 on the switch is the Dash Illumination feed? Regards Rob
  17. Hi All, I have purchased some late Td5 spec wings and they have come with the following parts: - The complete wing "skin" in ali, i.e top, front and side panels. - What appears to be a GRP liner - Some kind of soundproof cladding Has Land Rover done away with the galvanized steel inner wings now? If this is so, does the GRP liner attach to the wing and bulkhead like the steel one used too? I have uploaded some pictures of what I have. Could someone tell me the correct order of assembly; liner, soundproofing (on the inside) and then the wing? Or should I buy and fit the galvanized steel liner between the GRP liner and the sound proof cladding?! OR am I missing something silly here?! Regards Rob
  18. Thanks Paul, funnily enough I brought a switch from you off ebay the other day, well on10th of November! At least I think it was you, the one with the modified latching part. Its a small world huh? Cheers for the advice above I will look into contacting Martin. I have purchased all the bits and pieces now from VWP including the timer relay and heavy relay. So now its just a case of putting it all together. Regards Rob
  19. James, Here are the details for the VWP relay: Heated rear window timer. Swithes the rear window heater off after 10 minutes. Ref GLR10. £15.12 The website isn't very helpful to be honest. To summarise what I am getting here: If I say leave the switch ON, with the ignition ON but the engine not running would it still unlatch and switch off after 10 mins and the light go off?! Or should I work out a way to switch it from the oil pressure fed as Land Rover do. I have attached Martins diagram below. What I dont get by reading the diagram is where GW1 comes from and why PIN 1 on the switch appears to "T-off" and go somewhere else! I dont know perhaps its me being thick (I hear you saying YES). But reading the description it says the GW1 comes from the ignition side of things, does that mean he made a split, to make two wires...one to go to the Timing Relay on PIN 3 and one to go to PIN 1 on the SWITCH, wait that then goes to PIN 4 on the timer. Now I am confused. How I I then make this circuit work for the heated mirrors? As I want them to come on at the same time with the screen. I feel I am almost there, maybe one more hurdle to cross! Regards Rob
  20. Cheers guys, after reading up on it a bit more somebody on the LRO forum had posted this (I dont know if its of any help): http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=60317 He has modded the heated screen switch as you say I think James. Does his system therefore give a factory "like" solution? I.e the switch would be depressed, the light would come on and then switch off after 10 mins heating? The part I dont get is switching off, I think his is as per the factory build? If so then this would be the easiest method to go down I feel? One thing though how does the VWP Timer relay differ from the one I posted in the link earlier on? http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_74205.html I will be taking feds off the additional fuse box which is mounted in the battery box. Regards Rob
  21. James you legend! Thank you so much! This is EXACTLY what I needed to know. Wiring GOD. Just one question (and this one maybe somewhat difficult) how much cable would you estimate I would need to go down the custom route for both? I know that's kinda like how long is a piece of string type question! Really what am I like? I'll buy you a pint or 5, James when I am back in next June!!
  22. I also have a heated screen and mirrors to wire in. I have read through some of the posts on here and I would like to wire it through my post 2002 dash switch for front heated screens. The screen I have is the two connection type, I was going to use a timer relay like this: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_74205.html And a 70amp relay like this: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_2811R.html I know this has been covered before in the tech archives but I couldn't find the right document! Also what gauge wire would I need as well? Thanks in advance Robert
  23. Hi All Ok, so here is the deal, I have a ROW spec 300Tdi Defender 110 (center dash with the post 2002 switches etc), I have recently managed to get hold of some front doors which have genuine landy parts electric windows (posh I know). I have bought two of the genuine land rover parts electric window switches. Now the big question, I know that these switches are not capable of handling loads (or rather I read that somewhere on here I think). So I guess I will have to wire them through a relay? Question is, how do I do this, I am very mechanically minded but I HATE electrical things that have anymore than two wires. Ideally if someone can draw me a nice diagram to follow, tell me what type of relay or relays I need to buy and what gauge wire I need, then I am pretty sure I can get the rest together. I plan on taking a feed from an addition fuse box I have mounted in the battery box. Incidentally what rating fuse should I be using? I know its a big ask, but I dont what to destroy my land rover in a fire! Thanks in advance. Rob
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