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mobyone

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Everything posted by mobyone

  1. if the intercooler is less restrictive than the original, if you guage the pressure before the i/c, that is not necessarily what pressure is at the inlet due to the pressure drop accross i/c. if it was say 1 bar before the original i/c was replaced, then you fitted the new one without adj, measure the inlet pressure at 3k revs and it probably wont be 1 bar still as if the less restrictive i/c means the turbo does not have to work as hard to squeeze the air through it. plumb the pressure guage into the inlet manifold and you will get a true reading that the engine see's then you can adjust wastegate as necessary. judging by the issues jst has had, i am not sure any massive fuelling adj is necessary, so just adjusting the smoke screw is maybe all you need to do. and his sits at 15 psi(1 and a little bit bar!!) just my ten pence worth. richard
  2. yes, rotating the diaghram 90 degrees does hike up the horses. but the maximum torque figure will not be altered much if at all. the torque is what will trash your clutch/gbox not the horses. i dont have a tgv but the maximum torque i believe wont be altered by the fuel pump tweeks. btw, have you set the wastegate up to produve 1 bar again as you fitted an uprated ic? more boost will keep the egt down aswell. richard
  3. i replaced mine too, and the squealing came back in under 200 miles. from memory it is a 6203 bearing i think, but it is sealed both sides. google simply bearings and you can get them there better and cheaper than ebay. anyway, the fix i found was to fit a washer in 9 o'clock position behind the tensioner and bolt it tight. it stopped the squealing straight away and i have several thousand miles under it and the engine now lives in another disco too. richard
  4. yup, had a 405 tdi once, had it serviced. drove off only to get 3 miles and the engine blew up. the garage put 1 litre of oil in it! the apprentice did the job and nobody even bothered to check his work. td5's are not cheap to replace, so mechanically simple jobs i would do myself too. servicing now you have done some will only get easier with practice, and mobile mechanics are a godsend if you find a good one. most aa/rac engineers are good so if you see one sitting around, ask him if he does mechanics in his off time. i found the answer is more often than not yes. just a chat to him will tell if he knows what he is talking about. richard
  5. if it is the aux tensioner, the bearing can be replaced for a new one for less than a fiver. if you take off the aux belt and it stops, it is either the alt/pas pump/water pump or bearing itself. mine started doing it for no particular reason, i just put a washer behind the corner of the aux tensioner at 9 o'clock position and tightened it up again. if it is the aux belt tensioner, the wheel is left hand thread to undo and replace bearing, the body of tensioner is a normal thread and does come off without the fan being removed. if it still squeaks when aux belt is off, you know it is not auxuilliaries so go with timing belt kit. richard
  6. it is worth checking things like brakes sticking on slightly too, that will increase your fuel consumption. and it is something you can do before you pay out your hard earned. richard
  7. from the pics you put up mark, can you not just cut right up the b/head and along the outside of the disco/rr chasis rails and cut the rear arches up the same amount then allow the freelander to sit deeper into the disco/rr chassis and secure the body to the rail sides rather than the top. i see what you mean by lowering it as low as it could go, i think perhaps on the freelander pictured, the chassis must have been cut and the whole rail heaight lowered or the floor was raised inside the freelander chassis to take this into acount. i know this is not waht you wanted to do, but unless you do that or allow more protrusion into freelander chassis, i cant see it lowering far enough either. very interesting read, shame you dont bite the bullet and go for it on the freelander though, but someone might buy it form you as is, so understand you could get some money back buy doing nothing else to it... real shame. richard
  8. how do you know water went into the sump? it is difficult to get there unless yor gasket is breached or sump has a hole in it somewhere. do you mean that, or do you mean water went into inlet then into cylinder? if it only ran for a min then stopped did it die the death or struggle to run then stop? water in combustion chamber hydraulically locks pistons sometimes then you can have bent rods, but the other way around just removes the lubrication the oil gives. if it was alot, then the oil would be mayonaise and wont pump anywhere. but just a bit you can live for a bit as most of the oil still circulates. you dont say if it is a diesel or a v8 not that it matters in as much as the effect the water would have done, but you might be lucky if v8 as it could be a sensor. what is the engine? did the engine squeal before death...? richard
  9. the tax starts from the first of whichever month or last day of that month. so if you buy before the 30th/31st of that month, you will lose one month of tax as the disc you get will be from the first of that month. if bought 30/31 then it is from that day. the police have to give you the benefit of the doubt on this as it happened to me. you can get the garage to buy it for you as they have an open policy for any vehicle which is mot'd. richard
  10. well, you could remove a key item in the engine and replace it with a faulty unit or induce a fault which would not be able to be fixed roadside. say the ignition amp if it is petrol, or put a nick in a brake line and then ring the aa/rac if you have breakdown cover. they will have to relay you hopme or to a garage of your choice if you have a roadside relay policy. they are free with most bank accounts these days. just check before you do it though. i know barclays do it as i have done this twice now. they wont fix brakes at the roadside and often only carry little parts to fix common engines (fords/vw's...) good luck, but if no luck there are towing companies out there, rent a trailer even. they are about £80-£100 for a weekend richard
  11. certainly sounds like the fork is broken, but the last thing to check. yes bleed, yes look for leaks, twisted or blistered hoses and then, move to the slave cylinder or fork. no adjustment on disco's. richard
  12. chock the wheels,remove props, engine crane through the car hang the g/box then lower. you really some need room for the crankshaft oil seal. clutch straight after the oil seal do the timing belt in-situ. it would be easier with engine out, but if you really want it to stay there, do it from the back by removing the g/box. the flywheel will be more difficult with engine still in though. richard
  13. ok, so for power, i would just pick off from another gauge +ve. for earth, just go to metal. for the tacho part. you use the alternator for the revs. just run off from the voltage reg on the back of the alternator. pretty sure it is the voltage reg post. if not, then it is the other small post on the alternator. they use phase for the revs. i will go out and look at my 300 tomorrow and look. you will need to run a wire through the bulkhead from the alternator if there is not one already, which i would say there is not one. happy new year, richard
  14. 0.5-1 mm is ridiculous. making bigger engine capacities involves only mm's of enlargement of bores either side. i would say it is coke build-up. just try to nick it with a stanley blade, it will remove easily when scraped gently. also, if you scratch it with the side of a blade, the metal colour will show, you will see. you will not hurt the bores if you just gently do this. for the 30-45 like pattern, you need to move the tool down the bore fairly quickly. the slower you go down and up makes the angle of the pattern more shallow. steep angles are done by briskly honing up and down the bores. the speed at which your drill should turn is only about 200 rpm. not very fast. the slower the better really. and dont forget engine oil on your stones. you will do well running the engine with parafin type engine flush with the old filter when you have rebuilt it. when it is hot, drain it then change the oil and filter again at 500 miles. you will use oil probably up to about 1000 miles, just keep a spare litre kicking about. stones are good for oval bores, but the multi ball aerohone type hones are great. aeroplane engines are done with these and they say only an hour of wearing in too... just need the right grit for honing, or they only really de-glaze your bores. do cover the crank up, as best you can. you will only have hassle of the debris to remove if you dont. happy new year by the way. richard
  15. yes, you will need to set up tappet clearences again. i did not mean to mislead you, i just meant that you will only need a slight adjustment with the same rod as opposed to a total adjustment of all tappet clearences if the rods were muddled. but getting the timing belt and tensioner done whilst you do this will make sense as you can do these whilst the head is off and getting skimmed. by the time you get it back, the head can go on, bang. job done. mate, have a good xmas and look forward to hearing how it went in the new year. richard
  16. when you changed the lift pump, did you re use or replace the olives on the unions? i would say that this is your air in suction side of lift pump. of course it could be further back towards the sedimenter or even further back to the tank, but i would start sensibly and go back a bit at a time. also, if the diaphragm is shot in the lift pump, will it not draw engine oil in to the fuel? just read all the posts, and this is what i reckon. richard
  17. remove an injector and put it in a jar and crank over, you will see the diesel inject if it is working. if you put fresh diesel into a jar and put that straight onto pump inlet then you know the diesel is at the pump. maybe the lines froze! if the solenoid does not energize when you turn engine on, try putting 12 v straight from battery to it. if it does not energize with a tick, then you can remove the solenoid and remove the guts of it and re connect the body of the stop solenoid back in. however, the motor will need to be stalled to stop it if you go down this route. then find another one in the meantime. maybe there was water in the filter, drain it after warming it for a bit then try starting it again. if the fuel is getting there, it should go the rest of the way without drama though. richard
  18. it is an inertial bias valve. and yes it is to stop rear wheels locking up under heavy braking. the unit is sealed, so it is more than likely a union nut needing a nip up, or one of the olives on the pipes behind the nut or the flare is not sealing correctly. if the unit was defective i would be suprised as it is basically a cavity with a ball inside which rolls over a hole when braking. it is more technical than that, but that is basically what it does. if you can clearly see the leak is from the unit and none of its unions, then you could see how it is sealed up and try to re-seal it. never really had one off to see how it is put together. i am guessing threaded together but i am not sure. you would be far better off going to a scrappy ang get one off an old motor. these don't fail often. perhaps it has had an impact and is damaged from this. richard
  19. helloo joe, i meant someone might have done this before you came to own it. doing the pipe bypass will obviously make your blower blow cold as it will never see warm water. if you do this, use a length of clear garden hose. that way you will see your coolant circulating around and can rest assured your water pump is fine. if you also undo the two pipes which go through the bulkhead and put a garden hose into either one and flush out the matrix, if it is blocked then it will/should clear it. if it seems blocked and persistant, then swap the garden hose to the other hose and try reverse flushing it. richard
  20. this is a fairly easy job. as it is ohv not ohc, the timing is not altered and makes for a straight forward job. no special tools needed, and dont forget the exhaust studs at the bottom dont need to be removed, they only need to be loosened and then pulled up and out. my advice would be dont get anything britpart, NOTHING BRITPART. bolts can be reused provided they are not too long. they are about £2 each, when you take off the head, make sure you get the same number of holes thick gasket. don't get a metal gasket, the fibre crush type ones are fine as they are. get your head skimmed too, not worth doing all this without this. about £30. and mark up the pushrods so you wont need to set your tappet clearances again. if you get a timkins gasket, these are of good quality. my onlyother advice would be once again, no britpart items. if you get a gasket from these, you will be doing it again inside of 500-1000 miles. it is funny, i used their stuff for other cars in the past, only some things did not fit right. it would seem on landy's, they have tolerences so big, they just prematurely fail more often than not. have a good crimbo, and i hope it goes well for you. richard
  21. as a side note, has someone bypassed the heater matrix and just plugged a rubber hose from outlet pipe running on top of engine to the inlet pointing straight up. both at the back of engine? richard
  22. assuming you have a 300tdi, then your pump is attatched to all other ancilliaries like pas and alternator. if the pump siezed, then the belt would stop turning it and eventually burn through and snap. but you would know as it would stink of rubber burning and you would have no pas or charge to battery. the chances of the water pump snapping off inside the engine, but staying okay outside is slim, very slim. if a 200 tdi, then it has its own belt and you will see it turning if you lift the bonnet and check it(tighten if necassary when stopped) and re-check. if you fill it up from the reservoir, the water will get where it needs to go as it pumps from bottom of rad into block and out through bypass into pump housing again until up to temp, then through top hose. it maybe that the water pump vanes have disintegrated, but if you remove the small hose to the reservoir from the thermo housing, run the engine and you will/should get water flowing out. if you dont, it is not difficult to get the pump off an check vanes, just get a waterpump gasket for replacement after you have checked the pump. richard
  23. why not use a dti gauge or even just a simple brazing rod in an injector hole and crank the engine over and back a few times to get the bdc and tdc marks. then get a piece of paper and protractor, mark the angle you want to set, maybe every degree from 0 to 15 degrees and place the paper(ideally card) on the timing wheel and transfer onto the block, then it will be easy to time it in and adjust as necassary. richard
  24. you get a relay tick, or the solenoid ticks? if the starter and spanners were the cause of the short. then perhaps you got some localised heating and either damaged the windings or solenoid coil, or the insulation may have distorted and is sticking a bit. worth taking the solenoid off and cleaning it out/testing it off the vehicle. you can do the same with the starter and jump leads. before that though, check the signal wire to the solenoid is making a good connection as this may cause the problem. as will the earth lead being loose on the starter too. ******infact, just a thought, but when you got the sparks, did you forget to tighten up the positive connection tightly on the starter post!!!****** richard
  25. why not phone devon 4x4 or another landrover 'race' team. they prep loads of landy's for comps, safari's and customers alike. they will know as they have many years of experience. just google them, they have a forum too(more for race and comps) but their website has a phone number on it. failing that, just go with gl4. richard
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