Brian Reynolds

Thanks, my intention is to use the original springs to get the project on the road and see how it performs. I can easily add an extra leaf or 2 into the springs as necessary. I have done a previous conversion using a Perkins engine which was heavier than this Isuzu using standard springs with no issues. This LR will be used for almost all road work with very occasional off road. More for towing and nostalgia than mountain climbing.

Thanks, as you can see in one of the previous photos the rear shock mounts on the axle have been, to put it mildly, “modified” . I was looking for photos or a drawing to get some idea how to restore the original bottom mounting on the axle.

I am well into building the new chassis. I am currently making the spring hangers so that I can position the rear axle then the replacement power unit to get everything in alignment. I did not want the PTO holes in the cross members as a PTO is not an option with this power unit, plus in 40+ years of being around LR’s I have yet to see one with a working PTO. Thanks for all the helpful advice, always appreciated.

The combined weight of the Isuzu 3.9 connected to the Dodge NV4500 transmission is 340 lbs heavier than the original unit. Apparently Parabolic springs will accept this extra weight, but I might just put an extra leaf or 2 in the original springs to test the set up.

Further to my recent post regarding repositioning the axles on a 1962 Series 2A 109”, I have now completely removed the axles from the chassis so I have a much better idea of where I am going with this, but still need some information on the rear axle. The previous owners had repositioned the axles under the springs to raise the vehicle height, in doing so had cut off the original axle pads and re-welded ( very badly) them on top of the axles. The front axle was not too bad, managed to cut off the pads and reuse them as original. I am working on the rear axle, I can see how to reposition the axle pads, but the shock absorber mounts are completely mutilated ( see photos ). I would really appreciate some detailed photos of the Shock absorber mounts so I have some idea what I need. I also understand there were 2 types of shocks, A) with eyes each end and rubber bushings, B) with an eye one end and a thread on the other. I dont know what this was originally, but plan to use type A). Thanks.

Many thanks for the helpful info, especially the links, worked great, found the info I needed.

Thanks Daan, very helpful. I dismantled the axle over the weekend and found exactly what you have said. I intend to replace the axle back in the original position on top of the springs but to have the diff on the other side. It is a can of worms to flip the axle and the diff, so I tried rotating the drop box on the gearbox which appears to work well and the axle would work as originally set up. Still working on it, thanks for the input.

Hi All, As I have mentioned elsewhere in the forum I am building a 1962 Series 2A LWB using an Isuzu 4B diesel engine coupled to a Dodge transmission 5 speed 4x4. The drive for the front axle is on the opposite side from stock. Does anyone have any experience of flipping the axle and diff to work in this configuration? I have a few options but was wondering if anyone had previous experience of doing this. The chassis in the photo is being replaced, this was a test fit in the existing frame to see how it worked. Thanks.

Thanks, I have looked online, as I mentioned there are several options, including the Haynes that I bought which turned out not to have the info I need. I was hoping for a recommendation.

Hello All, I am rebuilding a Series 2A LWB from the ground up, currently replacing the chassis and rebuilding the axles. My question could anyone recommend the best shop manual to purchase that covers everything, including rebuilding the diffs etc. I am an experienced mechanic with a well equipped shop, no problem to rebuild components like the diff. I have a Haynes manual, as soon as the repair gets a little complex it says “refer to Land-rover dealer” which are in very short supply here in rural Manitoba, Canada. There appears to be numerous manuals available, I just want to get the right one. I prefer to stick with an actual manual rather than electronic. Thanks.

Thanks Steve, I originally intended to use a new Richards chassis but then realized that I would be reconfiguring the cross members to accommodate the replacement 5 speed transmission, so no point in chopping a new chassis, easier to build from scratch ( and a lot cheaper !) I think that I am ok with the spring hangers, what I am looking for is the actual axle to spring connections, also the shock absorber connections as the originals were cut off to mount the axle under the springs. Some photos of the axles removed from the frame would be very helpful. Thanks,

Many thanks for the helpful responses, I am obviously in the right place. Attached photos of what I am dealing with, I am only using the existing chassis to test fit the engine and gearbox. I am currently having a new chassis lazer cut, should have the pieces this week then a lot of welding. The information I need is for the new chassis. I intend to restore it to close to original configuration. What I am looking for is the configuration of the axle attachments, shock absorber attachments etc. I worked extensively with LR’s back in the 1980’s before emigrating to Canada, I know my way around them but dont have the detail I need to build this one. The photo Fridge Freezer posted was excellent, but a different axle, I assume a series 3? Thanks in advance.

Hello All, I am in the process of rebuilding a 1962 LR LWB 2A from the ground up, installing an Isuzu diesel and 4x4 Dodge NV4500 transmission. All going well except the previous owner removed the axles and installed them under the springs to raise the vehicle height. Did an awful job, cutting away cross members etc. They also cut off the flat mountings that were welded to the axles where the springs attach. I am replacing the axles in the original position on top of the springs but need to see how this was configured so that I can make replacements. Does anyone have photos or drawings of the original installation? I have looked in the manuals, some info there but not enough to do this. Any assistance appreciated. Thanks.