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Kim Horsevad

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    Try, Denmark
  1. Really appreciate the answers. Am in the process of converting my HCPU to full length hardtop. Have found a roof which (presumably) will fit. Going to build a full roll-cage next week - maybe fit a aluminium checker plate on top of the roll-cage. Might have the same effect - as suggested above. //Kim Horsevad
  2. Which is why I wanted to use such a roof - having expirienced the difference first-hand. Thanks for all your answers. Really appreciated! //Kim Horsevad
  3. Simple quick question: Will a safari roof from a 109" fit on a 110" with 110" windscreen? Thanks in advance for any information!! //Kim Horsevad
  4. The XZY is a great tyre - it can take a lot of abuse and functions quite perfectly in sand. However, as you stated you would be driving in russia, it would probably be helpful with a more mud-biased tyre. A couple of friends returned from a russia-trip last year. They encountered some quite soft roads: (The image posted is from: http://englishrussia.com/?p=315 - I cant acces their photos from this computer.) They used BFG M/T and were very satisfied with both tyre longevity and performance. If you choose XZY bring along a set of snow chains for all four wheels. Snow chains are quite effective in mud!
  5. Depends on what your priorites are with regards to the welded structure. Pure C02 makes more weld spatter, but the weld will be made with greater penetration depth - which normally translate into greater strenght. CO2/Argon mix makes a better looking weld, is somewhat easier to weld with and produce (much) less weld spatter. Much of my welding is done with pure CO2. There is a reason for the different threads on the bottles. Basicly it is an effort to prevent someone unknowlingly connencting the wrong kind of gas (oxygen, acetylene...) to a sensitive or dangerous installation. There are adaptors available to connect the different kinds of threads.
  6. If you were making a new floor I would definately use mesh and get the floor vibrated. In this situation - where you are adding sections of concrete to al alreade made structure - I dont think you will get much benefit from the extra work/cost. Adding mesh (and making sure it sits at the right level) is time consuming if you are in a hurry - which you are. Without a retarder this cures quite fast. No matter what you do you will get small cracks between the old and new sections. Only way to make the additions without cracks would be to hammer away the edges of the old concrete, so that the mesh gets exposed. Then tie the new mesh in to the old mesh. I would not bother! You are terrible undermanned for such a project! This concrete gets pumped out quite fast. You need one man to steer the hose, two to level with shovels and two others to make the final levelling. And it will still be very hard work!
  7. Just a word of warning.... If you are filling the tube with water or damp sand and capping it afterwards, then make very sure not to heat it excessively. The water vapour expands and fractures the tube - with possible devasting consequences for nearby humans.... The old way of bending tube consists of filling the tube with compacted DRY sand, then heating the tube to red hot and the doing the bend. However, this procedure is probably not applicable for CDS.
  8. Failed head gasket between the combustion chamber and the cooling system.
  9. This is my own opinion - others view may be different.... But, these beaches are rather easy to drive, most of this beach tour is just driving in a convoy up and down the beach for photo posing. There are some (very) small rivers to ford. Last year they managed to get a full-size hummer stuck in a very small river, which people regulary ford in normal 2wd cars. But still, people say that it is a good party. I havent been to the party, so cant comment on that. But if you want some challenging drivning - this beach tour is not for you. You are NOT allowed to drive in the dunes - only on the flat beach. These beaches are public - you are not required to participate in some kind of event to drive these beaches. They are open for public use whole year. There are one rivercrossing which might be interesting - the "Uggerby Å", which is a small river. Usually the water reaches the lower parts of the windshield, althoug you can cross futher out on the beach. Here the depth is smaller, but the water is more salty. Again - this beach is open for cars whole year. All in all - "Uggerby Å" is a good car-wash, but you probably have a lot more interessting fords over in the UK.
  10. Missed this question in my above answer - therefore double posting.... When the head gasket leaks between two cylinders neither oil nor water has been in contact with the exhaust gas or compression. Therefore no obvious signs in either oil or water.
  11. If it indeed is the head gasket then any running of the engine would worsen the problem. How much is to much is very difficult to know. By reparing the leaking head gasket as soon as possible you have the best chances that the material in either block or head remains undamaged. A small leaking passage in the head gasket is subjected to heat and pressure - both could weaken and damage the material. Much easier to just change the gasket than needing to have the head skimmed. You check for straightness/damage on the surface of the head by placing a steel ruler (known straight line) agaist the surface of the head and place a some kind of light behind it. If the light shines through at the surface, then the surface has ir-regulaties which probably need to be rectified for a proper repair.
  12. I had a 200tdi do just the same a couple or years back. The head gasket had blown between the two cylinders.
  13. D+ on the alternator is connected to the charge warning light. The other terminal of the charge warning light is connected to battery positive. On startup the regulator tries to produce maximum current - in effect D+ is shorted to the field windings, thereby creating a passage to vehicle earth (negative). Thus a current flows trough the charge warning lamp and the field windings and energizing the alternator. When the alternator starts producing current B+ and D+ is equalled, therefore the charge warning lamp receives positive feed on both therminals and goes out. Not many modern alternators are equipped with remote sense these days. Either way - the above setup for remote sensing would not work. Remote sense should be conncted directly to battery positive. (Or maybe I have misunderstood your explanation) Easyiest way to connect a supplemental alternator would be to take the battery positive feed to the charge warning lamp and connect to another 2 watt lamp working as a charge warning lamp for the second alternator. This other terminal of this charge warning lamp should be connected to D+ on the alternator. B+ on the alternator should be connected to battery postive.
  14. Maybe this is the new kind of off-roading. Saves some weight by negating the need for amour protecting from trees and rocks.... Says in the article that the car is road-legal! http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7821979.stm
  15. IR motion detectors coupled to an array of microwave transmitters. The microwaves produces heat when they reach human skin, which then produces an intese pain. Run the transmitters at a fairly low setting - you only want to induce enough pain to the thief that he chooses to run, not roast him (Roasted thieves could be difficult to explain to police afterwards...)
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