Kim Horsevad

Really appreciate the answers. Am in the process of converting my HCPU to full length hardtop. Have found a roof which (presumably) will fit. Going to build a full roll-cage next week - maybe fit a aluminium checker plate on top of the roll-cage. Might have the same effect - as suggested above. //Kim Horsevad

Which is why I wanted to use such a roof - having expirienced the difference first-hand. Thanks for all your answers. Really appreciated! //Kim Horsevad

Simple quick question: Will a safari roof from a 109" fit on a 110" with 110" windscreen? Thanks in advance for any information!! //Kim Horsevad

The XZY is a great tyre - it can take a lot of abuse and functions quite perfectly in sand. However, as you stated you would be driving in russia, it would probably be helpful with a more mud-biased tyre. A couple of friends returned from a russia-trip last year. They encountered some quite soft roads: (The image posted is from: http://englishrussia.com/?p=315 - I cant acces their photos from this computer.) They used BFG M/T and were very satisfied with both tyre longevity and performance. If you choose XZY bring along a set of snow chains for all four wheels. Snow chains are quite effective in mud!

Depends on what your priorites are with regards to the welded structure. Pure C02 makes more weld spatter, but the weld will be made with greater penetration depth - which normally translate into greater strenght. CO2/Argon mix makes a better looking weld, is somewhat easier to weld with and produce (much) less weld spatter. Much of my welding is done with pure CO2. There is a reason for the different threads on the bottles. Basicly it is an effort to prevent someone unknowlingly connencting the wrong kind of gas (oxygen, acetylene...) to a sensitive or dangerous installation. There are adaptors available to connect the different kinds of threads.

If you were making a new floor I would definately use mesh and get the floor vibrated. In this situation - where you are adding sections of concrete to al alreade made structure - I dont think you will get much benefit from the extra work/cost. Adding mesh (and making sure it sits at the right level) is time consuming if you are in a hurry - which you are. Without a retarder this cures quite fast. No matter what you do you will get small cracks between the old and new sections. Only way to make the additions without cracks would be to hammer away the edges of the old concrete, so that the mesh gets exposed. Then tie the new mesh in to the old mesh. I would not bother! You are terrible undermanned for such a project! This concrete gets pumped out quite fast. You need one man to steer the hose, two to level with shovels and two others to make the final levelling. And it will still be very hard work!

Just a word of warning.... If you are filling the tube with water or damp sand and capping it afterwards, then make very sure not to heat it excessively. The water vapour expands and fractures the tube - with possible devasting consequences for nearby humans.... The old way of bending tube consists of filling the tube with compacted DRY sand, then heating the tube to red hot and the doing the bend. However, this procedure is probably not applicable for CDS.

Failed head gasket between the combustion chamber and the cooling system.

This is my own opinion - others view may be different.... But, these beaches are rather easy to drive, most of this beach tour is just driving in a convoy up and down the beach for photo posing. There are some (very) small rivers to ford. Last year they managed to get a full-size hummer stuck in a very small river, which people regulary ford in normal 2wd cars. But still, people say that it is a good party. I havent been to the party, so cant comment on that. But if you want some challenging drivning - this beach tour is not for you. You are NOT allowed to drive in the dunes - only on the flat beach. These beaches are public - you are not required to participate in some kind of event to drive these beaches. They are open for public use whole year. There are one rivercrossing which might be interesting - the "Uggerby Å", which is a small river. Usually the water reaches the lower parts of the windshield, althoug you can cross futher out on the beach. Here the depth is smaller, but the water is more salty. Again - this beach is open for cars whole year. All in all - "Uggerby Å" is a good car-wash, but you probably have a lot more interessting fords over in the UK.

Missed this question in my above answer - therefore double posting.... When the head gasket leaks between two cylinders neither oil nor water has been in contact with the exhaust gas or compression. Therefore no obvious signs in either oil or water.

If it indeed is the head gasket then any running of the engine would worsen the problem. How much is to much is very difficult to know. By reparing the leaking head gasket as soon as possible you have the best chances that the material in either block or head remains undamaged. A small leaking passage in the head gasket is subjected to heat and pressure - both could weaken and damage the material. Much easier to just change the gasket than needing to have the head skimmed. You check for straightness/damage on the surface of the head by placing a steel ruler (known straight line) agaist the surface of the head and place a some kind of light behind it. If the light shines through at the surface, then the surface has ir-regulaties which probably need to be rectified for a proper repair.

I had a 200tdi do just the same a couple or years back. The head gasket had blown between the two cylinders.

D+ on the alternator is connected to the charge warning light. The other terminal of the charge warning light is connected to battery positive. On startup the regulator tries to produce maximum current - in effect D+ is shorted to the field windings, thereby creating a passage to vehicle earth (negative). Thus a current flows trough the charge warning lamp and the field windings and energizing the alternator. When the alternator starts producing current B+ and D+ is equalled, therefore the charge warning lamp receives positive feed on both therminals and goes out. Not many modern alternators are equipped with remote sense these days. Either way - the above setup for remote sensing would not work. Remote sense should be conncted directly to battery positive. (Or maybe I have misunderstood your explanation) Easyiest way to connect a supplemental alternator would be to take the battery positive feed to the charge warning lamp and connect to another 2 watt lamp working as a charge warning lamp for the second alternator. This other terminal of this charge warning lamp should be connected to D+ on the alternator. B+ on the alternator should be connected to battery postive.

Maybe this is the new kind of off-roading. Saves some weight by negating the need for amour protecting from trees and rocks.... Says in the article that the car is road-legal! http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7821979.stm

IR motion detectors coupled to an array of microwave transmitters. The microwaves produces heat when they reach human skin, which then produces an intese pain. Run the transmitters at a fairly low setting - you only want to induce enough pain to the thief that he chooses to run, not roast him (Roasted thieves could be difficult to explain to police afterwards...)

Maybe the attached comparison can be of some help: (Cant remember where I found the comparison table - maybe it has been posted on here betore)

Actually it is somewhat more simple. By reducing the wirespeed you spend more time heating a very localised area. Therefore the penetration gets deeper. Has nothing to do with adjusting current or voltage.

I dont get it.... Sometime in a distant past there must have been posted some pictures of some really weird welds.... Otherwise this "Will Warne welding"- thing couldnt have lasted this long.... I have searched and looked in all the archives. The only pictures I can locate of Will Warnes welding is: and From the thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...weld&st=20) Now, maybe there could be a little issue with the stop/starts in this weld, but other than that these welds are quite passable.... It simply cant be theese welds the whole forum keeps refering to? Is there a link to the original images which provided the basis for this LR4x4 "urban legend"?

That is the work of a true wizard! Can you do it upside down (ie overhead) too??

After a few hours of practise it will be much easier. Some will probably flame me for saying this, but when you practise upside down welding it might be preferrable to do a series of small, interconnecting "spot" welds. This will help teach you how much of the metal which can be melted and still stay in place. (Welding this way, howewer, is not the preferred way, as it can be weaker than a continous seam. MIG/MAG welding is actually quite easy to learn. In quite a few hours of practise the beginner can produce a passable weld. Welding upside down with sticks is quite another game. I can only just make such a weld passable. Doing upside down with the oxy-acetylene is something I can only dream about learning....

Looking at the pictures once more....: The welds will propably hold just fine for normal use. The pieces will probably even stay together in an recovery situation. But the repair pieces have not been sufficiently bonded with the parent metal. In the event of an hard collision the welds would let go, and then the whole chassis would buckle and twist. This situation could subject the occupants of the car to an somewhat unplesant expirience.... Oh and btw..... Maybe it is just some kind of parallax error, but please measure the straightness of the chassis leg (last picture) with some kind of straigh-edge.

I dont have the equipment needed to make usefull photographs of the welding process, BUT When you weld you should see the two pieces of metal melt together. This is easily observeble through the welding mask. The weld seam should be somewhat embedded in the parent metal. You may have a very pretty and consistent weld seam lying on top of the parent metal, but it will not hold. The two metals should melt together. You need to find the right balance for welding current and wire speed. For small welders operating on 110V or 220V this usually means turning the power right up and the doing a few practice welds on clean scrap metal. For best strengt use the slowest wire speed possible, which still produces a consistent weld. When welding, move the nozzle in circular fashion. If the two pieces of steel are similar in thickness one should spend equal time on the pieces. If one is thicker than the other the circle movement should be such that most time is spend on the thicker piece. This way you can make sound joints between pieces of very differing thickness. Practise on scrap metal, and observe the back of the piece afterwards. You should see some blue colours indicating that the heat has been transferred all the way through the metal. These were my advises. Others on here are much more expert welders, maybe some can provide inspirering pictures.

Please make sure you get that battery secured properly. Batteries are very sensitive to short-circuting.... If you are lucky the battery just dies, if you are unlucky you die with the battery! Ever seen the fireball produced when you accidentially touches both terminals on a battery with a spanner?

You really need a bigger welding machine then. How many amps can your welder produce? Turn the power up at maximum, practice on some scrap, adjust the wire speed to be as slow as possible (and still produce a constant weld) This way you will apply more heat than normal to a very localised area. All the steel to be welded should be totally free of rust. The plates shown in the pictures are not nearly cleaned enough. This has a greater importance than many thinks, especially with limited-output welding machines. Far far easier to burn though a rusty plate when you apply several hundred amps of welding power - but it it still the wrong way to do it! Grind all the metal back to shiny surface! Then tack the repair plates on. With a welding machine of such limited current as yours you do not need to wory much about warpage in a LR-chassis. The correct method is, however, to weld in a pattern of diagonally opposite. Weld a seam of some centimeters in one corner of the plate, then stop and weld a similar seam in the opposite corner. As this is a load bearing component - a chassis - all gaps should be fully welded. For extra strength you could extend the repair plates, drill some holes in the extensions, and fill these holes with plug welds - so that the welded area between the repair plate and original chassis gets larger.

They are used for storing feed in agricultural uses. Usually very cheap at agricultural stores. The lid seals airtight, so they are also used as luggage containers for white water rafting and such.