mad_pete

That looks very nice, where do you get a Mike from ?

All, Have switched to an auto on my 90 I now have a big gap in the LT85 tunnel. The hi / lo selector pokes up just as at the back and the rest of the gear lever area is just a gaping expanse. Anyone know of a garage in something in the Waterlooville area that could patch the hole and make it look half decent ? I want to avoid it looking like a total bodge job if possible.

Yeah I don;t know what I was thinking ( dreaming of my 2A I guess ) but I don't actually have a PTO hole in the rear cross-member. DOH Stacks out the top seem license to burn yourself a bit too much to me.

Having popped a 4.2 V8 in me 90 I think I'm going to need a bigger back section for the exhaust. The current plan is to go to Torque Technique in Sailsbury and get a custom section made up. I was wondering where to exit the exhaust ? 1) Side exit 2) Same place as standard exhaust 3) Through the PTO hole in the rear crossmember 4) Standard rear exit 5) Go mad and have quad exit rear exhausts ??????? My landy is in theory an off road beastie so out of harms way is good. Any suggestions ?

Well that's one on with the hole saw and dremel method ( the areocatch has a 30 mm arc and a 45 mm arc give or take ). The fit is great but it doesn't line up properly with the pin so I'll have to move the support bar out slightly (or make a new one ). I used the paint method but I think I had the pin too high when I marked it and the bonnet moved out a bit on the swing to the final close position. So my hole is too far back but I can remake the support bar. Not too bad so far but the trick will be to make the other one look the same as this one and hope the paint on the bonnet survives. Thanks for the tips. ( and the screw donation )

All, Got some Aerocatches for my 90. What's the best approach to cutting neat holes in the bonnet ? I was going to put a bar across the 2 top rad mount brackets. Will that be strong enough ? All advice appreciated as I don't really want to put 2 big holes in the bonnet in the wrong place and have to cover my mistake with big halfords air vents

All, MEgasquirting in progress. Mounting the sensor bracket. Not the bottom right bolt hole in the timing cover but the one above it as you look from the front on a 4.2 rangie V8. The hole in the timing cover is there and threaded. But the question is what thread is it ? Please shower me in enlightenment

and this is my trigger wheel ( alla trigger-wheels.com ) again very nice piece of metal. ( if only the missing tooth was a little more to the left :-p )

I have one of these brackets. It's a very lovely bit of metal so I don't want to change it if I don't have to. It mounts the sensor slightly in the dip between the two bolts on the timing cover so I'm quite limited on adjustment. To get the 1 mm sensor - trigger wheel clearance I have virtually no wriggle room at all.

I'm putting EDIS 8 on my 4.2. I have a sensor bracket and a trigger wheel. However the sensor sitting where it does on the bottom right of the timing cover I can only put the missing tooth 40 or 60 degrees in front of the sensor. The ideal 50 degrees isn't possible. So the question is should I live with 40 or 60 ( I think I am going with 40 at the moment so EDIS will limp home fire at TDC not great but not engine destroying either ) or should I seriously redo the sensor bracket to get that magic 50. I know I should be able to compensate for the 10 degrees with megasquirt.

Driver's seat base adjustment seat, sunroof left side motor, heater fan speed setting 2 , alarm and central locking ( you get a fairly random number of doors locking or unlocking ) are all gradually stopping working ( yes I know they do that but). I was wondering is there a body to chassis earth strap I can check ? It's a 3.9 Vogue SE on a H plate. Also I have a relay half way down the drivers wing top in the engine bay that has rusted though it's 2 earth points and corroded main positive off. ( I'll try to get a picture ) but all the important stuff still works. Any idea what that could be ?

my flasher unit clicks quietly when the engine is on. When I turn the heater fan on it clicks louder and faster. Is that the flasher and the fan sharing some crappy earth causing the problem or is it more subtle ? All the indicators work as they should.

oh and fancy a beer sometime, neighbour ?

It was the one Jules tried running upside down. Sounds fine on youtube.

I don't believe it. Cooling system is over pressurising and filling with gas. What's more likely with a sat engine, head gasket, bore crack or random temporary coolant leak that is part of the bedding in ? As a sticking a 4.2 V8 auto in a ninety tips section Remove radiator and drop engine and gear box as one Lt85 tunnel mostly fits Official V8 autobox cooler pipes don't fit Get the gear selector mount from Ashcroft I used a na 2.5 diesel rad for oil cooler You can keep LT77 transfer box and if you do props stay same. Check a locater peg is not in gearbox AND transfer case as you try to fit it EFI electrics aren't as scary as you think ( see Nige's posts for the magic docs ) Out of a 40 pin plug only 8 or so really mean business Exhaust probably won't fit It will take twice as long and three times more money than you thought it would ( doesn't everything ) It is cool to drive. BTW who else lives in Waterlooville round here ?

Right the 4.2 exhaust is bigger than the 3.5. At the moment the 2 just meet in the middle. Any suggestions on where I can get a custom exhaust, or at least a bigger back section ?

Right 300 years later a 4.2 is in and mostly works. Now slight change of plan as the megajolt is going on the Ranige and megasquirt is being lined up for the 90.

Just stuck a 4.2 V8 in my 90. It will start but only on a key flick. If it goes on to crank it won;t start. So its key flick or nothing So it's like the crank is drawing too much power and stopping something working. Fuel pump seems the same, and I think I get spark on crank. Any ideas ?

Hi, I keep finding posts mentioning a fantastic ECU electrics trouble shooting guide but I can't find it anywhere. Can some kind person link it for me please ?

Okay thanks. Petersfield I have seen others have problems with too. I think there is supposed to be a changeover valve or something that detects the first tank is full and changes over to fill the second. Can they go wrong ?

Oh and the system is 6 years old

The tanks hold 60 litres and its to x 35 litres I think. It was installed when I got it. To start with it took £30 ( 60 litres). Then the LPG station at liphook only filled £15 up and now the one in Southseaonly gives me £7. How do I check the valves haven't vibrated shut ?

I have twin torpedo LPG tanks and they don't want to fill up. I can get £5 - £8 pounds in but they should take £30. For a while I could get £15 pounds in like only 1 tank was filling but now its getting less and less. Any ideas ? The filler gauge never works so I have no idea how much is in there but tapping the tanks they don't sound very full.

Had a look, it's some pretty bad vertical scoring. ......

Garage took the heads off. Mechanic said there was really bad pick up on cylinder 1. I'm going to take a look tomorrow. Is there any hope for either outcome ?