mad_pete

Okay, quick trial latching with just the x catch in my hand and pushing into the door latch and it will latch nicely on the drivers side so maybe my other latch got a bit mangled with the alignment being out but the loose hinges letting it slam / bounce into place.

Shiny

The door does seem to stick out a little bit. I don’t quite understand why I can’t trigger the catch by hand. Maybe it expects the weight of the door behind it. I’ll see how long the x eng ones take to turn up and see if they help.

Maybe with the advent of all various and wonderful gear changing processes we have now they decided to stay out of it. 🙂

I thought you have to swap the axle but that’s easy enough. That’s what I did.

Maybe mine is just shot them as even with the striker in my hand I have trouble making it latch to the second position. Feels like something is blocking it going all the way but I don’t see anything in there.

Well any excuse to get some x eng stuff. Is there any adjustment on the latch in the door ? Maybe I have multiple issues here. Imagine that a Land Rover job that spirals into loads more. 🙂

I’ll try that. Seems strange it will click easily with the driver though.

Driver door always needed a good few slams and the hinges were super worn so thought that was the hinges. Got new hinges and the door still doesn’t shut. Goes to latch one okay but not to full latch. If I remove the latch from the body and try and slide it onto the latch it still won’t go but it does on the passenger side. If I use a screwdriver in the latch it does latch to position 2. I don’t see anything blocking the door. Is there secret adjustment options?

Not wanting to diverge too much but I had to get the callipers out and look mine up. http://www.jacobschuck.com/MagentoShare/media/documents/jacobs-technical-information.pdf

It popped out. I did slightly side load it but I think the taper could do with some tlc. Im smoothing it out a little make sure I have no ridges. This is my keyless chuck https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/high-quality-precision-keyless-drill-chuck-1-13-mm-jt6-mount/ On mine the threaded collar is for removal of it just the taper holds it in.

So minor detour while I sort this out...

I’ve seen wings, battery box and wheel arch’s as locations but I can’t tell from the pictures where that might fit.

That’s the area I’m thinking. I’ve seen tip back done but in the truck cab there is only one way to go. I did try and get on with bolting in but the chuck slipped off my pillar drill and I think I need to smooth the taper a touch first.

It’s pto and tank is on the rear wheel arch currently. More pipe is more cooling 🙂 do people make specific ones to fit that gap ? Mines a 90.

I’m looking to downsize my monster 30 l hydraulic tank to something a bit smaller and lighter. I have seen some that fit next to the battery in the battery box. Could I measure it and get something roughly the right size ? Any other places out of the load bed a cheeky tank could go ?

The issue with the battery access for tings like I got the exhaust welded and they wanted to disconnect the battery or for events (although hard core winch challenge days may be behind me 🙂 ) Marshall’s want to see the battery is bolted in. I have an external charge point and a battery cut off I could put in but I like to be able to get at the battery box easily if possible.

I think it does look different but I can only tell so much from one picture of a black car taken at night in the rain 🙂 I didn’t think the list looked that spendy until I saw the brake kit and the leather retrim and then I was like yeah okay. Looks good to me. Probably what my to do wish list would look like. Good luck with it. 🙂

Things to achieve : 1) I do want to bolt the seats in. It’s been months I want to get the seats in 2) I want to make sure it’s safe, these are heavier seats don’t want to be the filling in a seat / seat belt sandwich. 3) I want them fairly level and get a good seating position for me, I’ve got some angry tissue at the top front of my hip that protests about thighs above hips bucket seat position. If this does work I might think about changing the truck cab to get some extra space but seats first. 4) I want to have the doors shut and ideally the drivers adjust buttons still on 5) I want to still get at the battery box. I’ve seen hinge backwards designs As mine is a truck cab that won’t go. I’m looking at maybe so sliders a section that bolts to the seat and a channel in the runners with side bolts that let the seat slide forward. Alternatively the seat base is held on with bolts can this change to dowels at all to pull out like the defender one does.

Thanks for the post. That was the original plan but they just took my money and gave me the run around for weeks. I have indeed proceeded to label them weasels. Still credit company got my money back that was good. I’m now considering giving up least effort and go all the way to telescoping rails for battery box access in the truck cab. Anyone offer a consulting engineering service here ? 🙂 (in return for money as as mentioned I have some back for the project)

I’ve had mine spend basically the whole year in the garage and fail the mot. Even standing still time still takes a toll. I’m sure some of the cars that are mot exempt will be throughly checked but I can’t see them all being done. There is a reason mot testers are trained, certified and have nice big ramps.

What sort of console do they want and how much they want to spend ? halfords do cup holders and I’m sure retropower type company could whip something up for a good chunk of cash. I’m not sure any cars really do retro fits. Do you have any examples of cars in last 10 years that do big retro fit items ?

Well that’s more like it. Shall we do a forum team group buy ? 🙂

I’ve cut some rails to mount on. I’m now weighing up which bolt holes to use so I can actually reach them to do up. I have a truck cab at the moment so the seats won’t go back much anyway. I don’t know to pick up the front bolt to the rx seat or mount them to the rail and then the rail to the seat box. (also wondering about the viability of a sliding rail system that secures from the side that would let me get at most of the battery box.....)

Just to round out the thread I really like the drill press I have but I would say go new. The old ones are great the solid feel is lovely but parts can be tricky and can turn into a project. New ones I think are close enough. If you are the person that likes projects then great if you just want a drill get a new one. I know this view will vary but that is the view I’ve come to for myself. My tempted by list was : https://www.warco.co.uk/drilling-machines-bench-pillar-drills/302911-2f-floor-standing-drill-drilling-machine.html (Found Warco was a bit variable for customer service on their open day) https://www.gatemachinery.com/product/pr-2vs/ Gate machinery I found helpful.