santalars

Yep, fixed the fix. was way out. Running smoothly at 800 now witch correct timing, leads and plugs! I could not find it in literature and by inspection I thought this is just a hold down bolt for the inlet. Thanks guys! I'm member since over 12 years and whilst I'm only popping in for the occasional question it's so good to still have the same good people providing excellent advise. time for a donation.

I did check and can't find a problem with the pipes. I have the feeling that that was messed up a long time ago. The timing was completely out and as soon as I set it right I had a huge increase in power .... and the idle at 1200. I don't think it's the right procedure to retard or advance timing to regulate the idle speed. There must be a way to adjust the idle speed? I have attached few photos showing the set up. The only space where a hose could be missing is the bottom one at the vacuum membrane for the distributer. Thoe top one is ther and the diaphragm is ok / advance seems to work.

Is there any easy way to adjust the idle speed on a 3.5 efi? Car was idling at 800 rpm until I replaced the leads and spark plugs to the correct ones. Now its idling at 1200. I did the timing and the throttle sensors which were both completely off too. how can I get the idle speed down?

Just to confirm: Dave is soooo right. Locker locked and did not open on tarmac - big bang - halfshaft no 1 broken. However, as the locker did not unlock I did not notice - thought it was just one of the usual bangs from the locker. Whilst offroading on New Zealands South Island - 2nd halfshaft gone. That left me with front wheel drive in a not very good spot! Just made it out of there in reverse. Can I fix the locker myself or will a spring break my fingers or face when I take it apart ?

Hi Gents - it's been a while. I have (still) play in the rear diff - it's almost half a prop shaft turn - and had a look if there is anything wrong with the diff. It turned out that the diff is fine. The only source for the play i could find is the difflocker, but I could not replicate it once the diff was out. It's also not the splines - they are fine. Is that a Detroid locker?? I heard they are pretty much indistuctable - correct ? I'm used to the occasional Bang but is the play ok too? Do I have to be worried? All Opinions are very welcome - Thanks!

Josh, I have not meant the "normal" type of oil loss. Actually my Defender is leaking worse. However, If you want to you can get them dry. I slowly get the hang of the right clutch application. I was dumb again and lost my fuel cap!! bugger. have already ordered one. I won't forget this time to fix the chain @ Snagger: Good advise with the additives. I normally refuse to look into any additives but in this case it was the right thing. So far have added Petrol additive and that already has significantly reduced the oil consumption significantly. before we were talking about a litre per 100 miles.

Josh, I have not meant the "normal" type of oil loss. Actually my Defender is leaking worse. However, If you want to you can get them dry. I slowly get the hang of the right clutch application. I was dumb again and lost my fuel cap!! bugger. have already ordered one. I won't forget this time to fix the chain @ Snagger: Good advise with the additives. I normally refuse to look into any additives but in this case it was the right thing. So far have added Petrol additive and that already has significantly reduced the oil consumption significantly. before we were talking about a litre per 100 miles.

Ok, I'm, back. The birth of our little baby girl has slightly distracted me from focusing on the Odi. I have replaced some ball joints and in a burst of motivation I have welded and re glazed the drivers door. (not without being dumb and got sun burned from welding - usually I laugh about others when this happens). Was quite a bit of patching, but I'm happy with the result. Here door tops are not relevant for passing the Warrant of Fitness (WOF). I managed to source new springs and I put new brake shoes at the rear brakes. Bleeding the brakes and setting the pedal is the worst fuc.... nightmare ever. 5litres of brake fluid and presure bleeding whilst turning the adjusters was the best way at the end. (bleeding an early RR ABS is easy in comparison). Took me another day to get all brakes braking evenly (one needed a new wheel cylinder). The rear barkes were extra tricky. All necessary light issues sorted (still 24v) and all working. All cosmetic rust overpainted with a special mixture of underbody paint, thinner and chassis paint. and then....... Yay !! we have passed the WoF!!! all road legal now. This is really a very cool car to drive with the softtop off. .. Ah, yeah, sorry but we have Summer here now The clutch is terribly juddery. I would put it to rust on the plate (?). Anyone any smart ideas what to do to improve ? Apart from this a great drive and not even too loud! However I have some oil consumption. Can someone please tell me how much would be normal ?

sounds like electrical / spraking problem to me too. I would try new plugs and leads after you have confirmed that you are using the right coil type.

Ok all of you who have voted for the hose were right ! I never came across that before, but learning is a never ending process Done the chassis welding this weekend. not too bad, someone already had a go. at the end I guess the chassis will be very strong. also got the bumper stubs sorted. Now I need to fix the drivers door - patching it together somehow. In Europe I would just order a new one. not too far to the test drive....

here is a pic:

Wow that sounds like a big leak! First, be careful and make sure that you refill the fluid reservoir. if it leaks that much - don't drive it. Second don't panic. relatively easy fix. One of the gakets/seals in your master cylinder has blown. (well or there is a leak from the reservoir, but this is very unlikely). Take the liknkage cover plate off (6 or 8 screws) and you can see the linkage from your pedal to the cylinder. ...and most likely you can now exactly see where it leaks. I don't know how comfortable you mechanically are but just to keep in mind that you have to make the call yourself if you want to work on your brake system or not. If you don't feel comfortable get somone who is from the trade. You need the get the cylinder out. You woul have to check with e.g. Repco if they have a Master cylinder kit available. It's sometimes amazing what Repco has in stock. You would then have to open the cylinder and replace the gaskets. How to do that in detail is probably best to look up in the workshop manual as I can't tell from the top of my head without taking it apart myself. If there is no kit available you would need to see if you either find a brake specialist - There is a guy on trade me who claims that he could do all brakes and parts- or get a new master cylinder, which is not expensive when you order in the uk. Whatever you do, be aware that you cant drive the car when the master cylinder is out -meaning it's stationary and it is dangerous to drive it now. getting the cylinder out and sorted is probably the best way forward. Be carefull not to break the brake line threads and start soaking them in WD40 tonight.

Good write up and very nice work. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the continuous support. I have tuned the engine now nicely and got rid of the bad smoking. running and revving nice and clean now. yes tuning by ear works good. Now I'm on to all the nice ****ty works like rust treatment and welding. But before I had to take the front left road spring off. was badly rusted. Took it apart and after I got all the rust out I saw that there are two broken leaves. Will be a job for the blacksmith I guess, or I'm lucky and can source a replacement. @ jjm: any ideas? It took me half a day to get the spring out all rusted solid . Strangely it is the front left that if badly affected by corrosion only. everything else is "normally" rusted . Clutch is still moving extremely heavy and comes back very slow...I'm suspecting a blockage in the hydraulics. Here some update photos:

Good news ! Clutch came to live!. don't ask how, I don't know. it must have kind of worked free. So I have now: engine running brakes sorted vehicle driving some questions left: There is only a timing pointer on the flywheel housing but no mark on the flywheel visible ?? anyway, am I the only one who has to use a mirror the be able to see the pointer. thats in a very bad spot there. There are no marks on the crank pully either. any tips for easy setting of timing? Does the front wheel drive lever originall has a spring to hold it in the right position, or does it stay there by itself? Just asking because it really moves very easily. ok, now it's game on on welding. mainly the drivers door needs restoration and some holes in the front end of the chassis. Someone has dealt with the front before but was obviously not a master welder - not that I am, and probably not too bad for gas welding. Her some photo update: