reb78

I'd check with Beaumonts but suspect they will say ATF. A decent ATF isnt expensive. In my opinion you are best off using it and upping the service intervals as a change is quick, easy and cheap. Leaving it forever, as people tend to do with transmission oils, does the damage. If ever needed, Bristol Transmissions built me a stumpy R380 for under £1000 and happily took an LT77 in exchange. Its been spot on.

My bodge repair was meant to be temporary. It has done about 80k miles on that since with no ill effects.

@vulcan bomber has sleeved one of my cases. The other, wasnt so bad but was still leaking - when it was off for another gearbox problem, I knocked the intermediate shaft out a little, replaced the o ring on the shaft and gave it a good coating of sealant, knocked back in and torqued up. It hasnt leaked since.

Gosh - you work fast! I have taken this long to just look at mine

What a mess!

I agree in that I have had more.issues with sliding calipers, but interestingly, the issue i seem to frequently have is seized pistons on sliding caliper designs. I have rarely (never actually) had issues with the sliding pins!

I thought it might be which made me feel doubly better!

Makes me feel a bit better about being a little overdue on the d3!

I think you are right. I expected more from an £85k new car!

I'm annoyed I bought mine but feel completely stuck with it to be honest. The D3 of the same era is much better built.

I have a 2007. I cannot beleive how bad they are for rust given the originlal purchase price etc. You would think the components should have been much better quality. I'd love to move mine on but the arches need attention before i can do that now.

Just give up Peaklander. Its not worth worrying about.

https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/optimill-defender-wing-mirror-arms-with-puddle-lamps

And in these later autos, they often need to be at certain temps too.

Thats interesting as many declare the 200 heads scrap once they see those cracks between the valves. I kept mine.

Same - the last one i removed was a lot worse but it wasn't due to those cracks that my HG went. Engine was running perfectly. I would happily fit the head in alfamans pictures.

Same, plus a couple of good spare heads. Tbh - I too one off with cracks between the valves and think they were incidental findings when the HG went so would be tempted to put that head back on if I was desparate.

@ashtrans I suggest you speak to Dave directly. Always quick to reply to email and plenty of people there to answer the phone. He is also on here.

VB's work is very good too. I can vouch for that. He rebuilt Ralphs overdrive if folk want other opinions to mine.

Pretty simple units to rebuild DIY...

Tbh, if the rear seal isnt leaking, I would leave it. Do you mean front or rear crank seal is leaking ? If rear, genuine.

Valeo are good. Had a disaster with a borg and beck where the centre of the friction plate fell apart, I wasnt impressed. Never seen the need to spend more than valeo cost.

Bristol Transmissions. Built me a stumpy R380 from them at a very reasonable price and its been spot on.

I hate my nanocom. Its a shame GAP dont cover the TD5. When nanocom decides it wont connect to the D2 ten times in a row, i go grab the hawkeye (also discontinued) from the range rover and it connects first time and does the job. I only bought the hawkeye as it was cheaper than getting the cable and licence to upgrade the nanocom for the RR (and since I hated the nanocom anyway I was happy enough to get the hawkeye) .

Sorry - I misunderstood you. Yes, I agree - I suspect very different parts internally. The boxes are different shapes completely so I cant see there being common parts in there really.