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reb78

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Everything posted by reb78

  1. All he lists are on the same fuse (certainly on 200tdi and TD variants, not sure about others) if that makes any difference here?
  2. I did a write up on here somewhere. Materials used etc. Mine was one of the most succesful interior repairs I have done on my land rover. If the liner 'board' itself is ok then new lining and fir tree fasteners and it will look good as new.
  3. Mine didnt get further than part of a quote. Seemed to struggle with the words Land Rover. I soon gave up. Footman James werent much better.
  4. Where else are you going to route it though? Theres not exactly another obvious/convenient route from the front connection.
  5. Not sure you need to bend it if you can solder. 4x 90 degree bends and some straight pipe should work?
  6. I am pretty sure Gwyns props are Bailey Morris from the ones I have had before.
  7. My National Luna is mentioned somewhere in this thread. Very pleased with it too.
  8. Having read this and dredged up research in my mind when i was looking a long time ago you need the incartec iso adapter and patch lead specific to your headunit.
  9. I domt think the steering wheel will work with that though? I think it needs another lead to patch that in? Pretty sure Ashleighs link will make the steering comtrols work too.
  10. I switched to a brass rad plug for exactly the reason you have found with yours. Right size can be found on ebay and theybdont dissolve like aspirin!
  11. This ^^^ copes fine. Can find them on ebay for not too much (by the time you have wrecked three or four cheapies the Wurth ones seem a bargain)
  12. Plus one for that as I am looking to sell mine... as I have too many cars! Haha. I also have a D3 and its a fine car and nowhere near the trouble I was expecting.
  13. I have done similar. I fitted freelander1 rear seats to the middle row of my 110. I moved the whole lot back about four inches to make more leg room - it hasnt really affected the boot and can still use the original seatbelts with the way i have done it.
  14. I would have thought that fabricating the sill rail out of some decent RHS would provide a decent solution. 2mm vs 3mm on the original design is probably neither here nor there in a side impact situation? I would imagine box would be better but it does introduce another rot point. Should be fairly simple as its just a straight piece from the A pillar to C pillar. B pillars are spot welded I think - pretty sure I can see the spot welds through the paint a the bottom of mine. C pillars were so I think B will be the same. I am considering the galv option from YRM for when i rebuild mine.
  15. Thats what i did. Ran the 300 pump while my 200tdi pump.was reconditioned.
  16. Yep. I ran a 300tdi pump on my 200tdi for a good few months. Didnt notice any difference.
  17. Trouble is you might not 'do' wiring diagrams but all you are asking is for everyone else to do them for you. Multiple people gave solutions on that other thread including several saying that you needed the 10as for this loom!
  18. You are screwed if you ever have a problem with a part with them then - happy to take your money, not happy to resolve problems when they occur... just making you aware!
  19. I dont remember that but could be interesting to find the discussion.
  20. Just a note - people speak of these ODs as splitters but 3rd plus OD is pretty much 4th and 4th plus OD is pretty much 5th etc... - thats on the LT77 and R380. The plus OD is ever so slightly lower than the next gear up but not a lot. Mine is basically a 6th gear that allows me to retain the original 1st gear ratio.
  21. I was changing lift pumps every 6-12 months. They were Delphi or Genuine. Some failed due to the diapragm splitting - thats a non running vehicle as diesel is peeing out down the engine block amd not getting to the FIP. I run a lot on SVO at 100% which possibly didnt help the diaphragm. Since fitting the electric one in 2015 I havent touched it. I wouldnt call that less reliable.
  22. I know its not what you want to hear but why the obsession with discs on the rear? Its the absolute bottom of my list of mods. I can lock my 110 up on a dry road. I tow up to the legal limit and the brakes are spot on, all maintained properly and totally stock. Theres a few points... 1. Properly adjusted drums? 2. Have you rebuilt or replaced the front calipers? Reason for asking is that people never keep up with the reccomended brake fluid changes. When I rebuilt my calipers I found the lower fluid channels were gummed and blocked with rubber seal goop. No fluid was passing. I wonder how many older calipers are like this and reliant on the upper fluid gallery for flow between the two halves of the caliper... the WSM states not to split them so I guess many dont and dont spot this and clear the gallery. Even vented discs are not that necessary if you arent towing down the alps all day..
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