reb78

I am soon to begin a chassis change on the 110. I was going to replace a lot of stuff thats hard to do when the body is on. Fuel lines are in my thoughts. Its a 200tdi 110 and the fuel lines from LR are no longer available (I think). I run on SVO a lot of the time if that makes a difference. What have others used? Could I go overkill and use the right diameter cupronickel pipes?

Haha - my chassis change started with changing a rear brake line that probably didnt need changing. I changed the line and bled the brakes. A bleed nipple on the front right caliper sheared. Got it drilled out and re-tapped and refitted. Upon re-bleeding the thread on the bleed screw on the rear left brake cylinder stripped. Whilst changing the rear cylinder, I scraped some rust near the rear shock mount. That led to starting to weld on a plate, then I poked some more rust and found more and more and more.... So, a rear brake line has cost £3k so far in a chassis!

Mine is going to do exactly the same. Chassis is on order. Five new galvanised doors are bought, repaired bulkhead is galvanised. I am just contemplating saying f'*k it and buying the whole galvanised ABC/Sill setup from YRM so basically i never have to touch bodywork again after this year. I am just putting workbenches round the far end of my workshop (about 45 ft of bench!) to start the strip down methodically so I have a rolling chassis when the new chassis arrives.

As above - I am sure your insurance company could give you legal advice on this. I dont know if @cactus is still on here but I think he used to work in this area so may have some advice.

They will be the same clutch but sold by different resellers. I'd just go for the cheapest of those two as the same thing will arrive.

As James says - usually its the decent stuff Allmakes supply.

I'd wager that no Clarke branded MIG is going to give good welds on 20mm anything. Like L19, I'd rather reach for the arc if i can. A 20m lead for the old Oxford unit makes that doable for most of my shed.

You arent the only one. I have a nice MIG but get better welds from ARC. I am using a 2phase arc now and that is smooth.

I worried about this as the teflon ones also came via Britpart. I fitted mine at least 8 years ago now. I swapped the seals in the BP kit out for corteco but the swivel balls themselves have been spot on.

Agree with all of the above. Easy to say, but stick to your guns and try not to get too stressed about it. Just a thought, but IF it definitely needs a new chassis, you could get a cost from this lot - http://marsdenautodevelopments.net/contact they fit Richards Chassis. I havent used them but they are associated with Richards as a fitting centre. I was recently quoted something in the region of £4500 for a chassis swap that included the cost of the chassis from somewhere else (not local to you). I am doing the job myself so didnt enquire any further but it might give you an idea of the process. If your vehicle is worth say £16k, then thats just over 25% of the value - I wouldnt think its a write off at that ratio anyway.

I have always loved that setup Fridge but I just couldnt get it to work in mine - its like its a different size! Hence going the freelander route above.

That is interesting. Both of my wheels free beams are moveable, but I was wondering if the jack could sit on top of them. It definitely wouldnt run on the ramps because, as Ross says, they are ribbed and I dont think it would run smoothly on them. I need to modify the ramps at the front of my lift - they are too steep the way it is setup, fine for 4x4s but cars with lower suspension can bottom out as they drive up, a shallower angle with longer ramps would help.

How do you mount your jacking beam Sam? Your ramp is a very similar Bradbury to mine but I wasnt sure how a jacking beam would mount to it.

My ramp revolutionised jobs for me. Everything is so much quicker now. Mines a four post with wheels free beams. BUT.... having bought a D3 since getting the four post, I find myself on the lookout for a two post lift as well now for those body off jobs! But its complete luxury going from a driveway crawling around on the floor in fair weather only and having to clear anything stealable up at the end of every day to a shed with a ramp that I can lock up at the end of the day leaving tools, car bits etc where they are! We rebuilt a Ford tractor in the space next to the ramp - ramp or pit would have been unnecessary for that an probably hindered the work.

She wont mind. You are buying her a welder afterall.... I think i will be travelling up on the 25th and back in the Thursday evening or Friday morning. Not set in stone yet but if we can make something work around that I am happy to help.

I can get it from Tavistock to Salisbury area on the 303 and possibly drop it off with Fridge for him to get to you Mike. If @mat2495is passing near Callington and drop it off with me, that would be even easier! I am next travelling the week of 26th April so about a months time at the moment.

RRC seats in the front of mine and freelander rear seats in the back. The RRC seats are very comfy. The D1 seats above look better than my F1 seats if I am honest- i took a similar chunk out of the wheelarch too.

Richards chassis ordered last night. I did it online. Whats the process here? Will I get a call when its ready and they want me to pay?

I was hoping you would reply.

I think an MOT tester would need to confirm but i imagine the test and fail would still be noted on the system if one was conducted and charged for in the normal manner?? So wouldn't it flag up on ANPR etc as not having a valid test?

Thanks Litch. Right. Richards it is. XD, if you had rung when you said you would you might have got my money.....

I'm seeing about buying a mates Golf now!!

Yep. I was hoping for a temporary repair while the disco is off the road but its just too rotten in that cross member. obviously I cut the big hole but its so rotten on top of the rail forward from here theres nothing to repair to!

Well, the rot got worse. I put a rather neat plate on the shock mount but then patching a small section forward of that revealed more and more rot. Its impossible to repair properly with the body on and I worry about the integrity of that A frame cross member. So the 110 is off the road. I will start stripping it and get the chassis ordered from Richards I think. I want to take the body apart as the whole thing will be getting a refurb as the new doors and bulkhead go on too.

Mines the same. Its just really rotten back here. Forward and aft of this spot are quite good! Was your Richards chassis all ok Litch? I think thats the way I am leaning.