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About taurion

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  1. As above , if I remember rightly you need a thin -walled socket to fit in the adapter housing. Can have a look at one tomorrow if you want.
  2. The 2nd page lists the approvals for Castrol SF: https://www.castrol.com/content/dam/castrol/country-sites/en_mm/myanmar/home/pdf/radicool-sf-premix.pdf, So any pink/yellow antifreeze that has one of these approvals will be the equivalent. Visit your nearest agricultural machinery dealer they will have a choice and probably nearer than Norauto or FeuVert. They should be able to find a data sheet for the product they sell that will list the approvals. Bon Courage
  3. The dash gauge gives a general idea of temp, you need something more precise and reliable. I have 52mm Stack gauges in my RRCs VDO or Smiths would do equally well, have a look at Merlin Motorsport or Demon Tweeks to see what is available. I hope you have a vehicle without too many problems, having said that all problems can be solved. I'm sure you will have more questions but you will be wiser afterwards......
  4. Looking from the front of the engine each cylinder head has a hexagon headed plug on the rh side. It is M20 x 1.5. The plugs on n°1 & 2 are not easily accessible , n°3 has the water take off for the cold start device and n°4 will probably have an easily accessible plug. Sometimes the dash temperature sender is installed here instead of by the thermostat housing. The original dashboard gauge is not of much use when trying to keep a precise eye on engine temperature.
  5. Service parts (belts ,filters ) can be cross referenced from a competent motor factor, the parts availability from land rover specialists is getting less now . Engine parts from VM engine specialist (google ) near Derby or JNL engineering Ltd Camberley ( UK importer). They do not know much about the older HR engines but can get the parts. As above fit a temperature gauge to the rear cylinder head and drive by it. The engine runs at 82°C , do not exceed 95°C and the chances of head or gasket failure are greatly reduced. Next fit an EGT gauge and do not exceed 700°C. A working viscous
  6. I extracted /removed some m8 exhaust manifold studs from the aluminium head of a Renault Alpine V6 with the engine in situ. I drilled the stud as near a possible central with a 5mm drill and then used a die grinder ( heavier version of a dremel) to slowly grind the stud away and picked the thread spirals out when I just touched the aluminium. Took nearly 2 hrs per stud but cheaper than removing the cylinder head. good luck Happy new year
  7. Almost certainly the pump gear has moved a tooth when changing the pump. I think there is enough clearance in the cover to allow the gear to fall out of mesh if it slips. Either front cover off or try to lift the gear and turn it one tooth to advance the timing. I have a 2.5vm here I can look at if you have further questions. Good luck
  8. Monopoly...... ?Cartel.....? Possibly Bearmach have an agreement with their distributors not to under cut them with direct sales so that the distrubutors in the country can continue with their satisfactory margin. Companies that operate in France and the UK have refused to let me purchase goods in the UK for export to France.( I am resident in France and the UK price was significantly cheaper).
  9. Does the ACE system need to be purged with the aid of diagnostics (nanocom) or will it purge itself when driving? I have driven 200km and the ACE seems to be working (compared to my RRC).
  10. New VDO fuel pump fitted today, current draw measured with a clamp meter 12amps which would seem correct because the multimeter went off the 10A scale but not enough to trip the cut out. No smoke from the high resistance crimp connections!
  11. A bit of progress, current draw with the multimeter in the circuit is 5.5 to 6 amps. It smokes continuously when running !!! The wire in the top of the pump has gone black with the heat and the crimp in the connector has suffered from the heat and I think is making a high resistance connection hence the heat. I am changing the connector and will measure the current with the new pump when I change the plug.
  12. The owner wants me to change the fuel pump because of the melted connector ( the top of the pump is no longer sealed and diesel dribbles out around the multipin connector when the tank is full). I will cut into the wires in the pump and put a multimeter in the circuit to check.
  13. According to my clamp meter the current draw is 3 amps. 3amps and a bad connection make smoke. As said above the terminal in the top of the pump had melted its housing and the heat has resulted in the loom connector tag losing the springiness to make a good contact. When the pump stops there is a small whisp of smoke that comes from the connector each time! More useless information.......starter motor current draw 800amps.
  14. I will try to remember to measure the current when I change the pump in a D2 next week. There is enough current to melt the moulded connector coming out of the fuel pump unit when the connection is poor , melt the insulation and blacken the copper wire to the pump .
  15. Measured last week ambient temp about 25°C 750 amps for about 2 seconds to start a 3.6l six cyl diesel Two Varta 72Ah 800 CCA in parallel , all connected with 50mm2 cable.
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