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taurion

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Everything posted by taurion

  1. As above , check that it is the correct belt and no debris on any pulley. Are the bearings in the alternator starting to seize at a certain speed ? Take the belt off and check that there is no noise from the bearings when turned by hand.
  2. When I did mine I put a smear of sealer on both sides of the metal gasket and tightened with the torque wrench and second time no problems. I did mine from underneath on a 4 post lift but if you put the front wheels on ramps you should be able to see what you are doing more easily. Beware of the wires to the crankshaft position sensor and the sensor which is close by. What colour was the fuel pump that was changed? Perhaps the injector seals are ok when cold but as the engine warms up they start to leak combustion gas into the fuel gallery and so causes the engine to die. Injector seals are not difficult to do, just don't rush , there is probably a youtube video by now.
  3. If the fuel pump that you took out was covered in a grey film that is the exhaust gases coming back into the fuel system as a result of the injector seals failing. The poor starting is exhaust gas in the fuel gallery.
  4. It is possible with patience. It has been several years since I did the job. I think I used 3/8" drive long socket which I turned down the outside diameter to fit in the hole around the glowplug to undo about one turn. Then used a ring spanner to undo 1/12 turn at a time until I could reach them with long nose pliers. A 1/4" drive" long socket might fit to crack them. Buy an extra socket and spanner or two that you can cut up or bend to suit the angle needed. To start them if you cannot get your rachet head in, weld a bar on the side of a socket . Do not be afraid to 'sacrifice' some new tools , they become the special tools that you can keep for the next time. Bon Courage
  5. I suggest going west of Rouen. Go west on the A29 as far as Yvetôt and then south beside Caudebec-en-Caux, cross the Seine by the Pont de Brotonne (free). Continue south to Bourg-Achard to join the A28 south. No traffic jams just some local traffic and you see a little bit of rural France.
  6. When my alternator decided to produce 16.6V it blew my Osram nightbreakers , fortunately there does not appear to be any other damage.
  7. It is is good that the turbo is working. I would have expected 1 bar. If there is no black smoke when accelerating , particularly from 1200 rpm to 1600rpm before the turbo starts working, there is a fuel problem. Does the fuel lift pump work well with a strong jet when pumped by hand? If not, start by checking that the fuel pick-up in the tank is not partly clogged. The fuel lift pumps do fail, so that could be delivering less fuel than needed which would be the extra bit of fuel to get the turbo to 1 bar. All that remains then is the fuel pump. Is the membrane in good order under the cover of the turbo boost capsule on the fuel pump? Does the boost pin move freely? It is the same Bosch VE pump fitted to the 200 and 300tdi engines and a lot of VW/Audi so there is a lot of info on this and other forums. I presume you have 7% vegetable oil in your diesel which can be the cause of problems in the older pumps, particularly if the vehicle has been standing for any length of time. I have had 3 fuel pumps rebuilt in the last few years and each time the technician had said that the vegetable oil has started to degrade the seals and reduce the performance of the pump, 1,000€ for rebuild 3 years ago. Hope that helps
  8. Yes, that is ok. You need to accelerate hard in 2nd or 3rd gear above 2000rpm to get the turbo to give 1bar, slightly uphill will give the engine a load so that the governor calls for more fuel which makes more exhaust gas which increases inlet pressure. It is almost impossible to get any meaningful pressure when stationary because there is no load on the engine. If there is no black smoke when you 'floor it' you have a fuel problem, lift pump or possibly injection pump. Hope that helps.
  9. I think you can see or feel whether the waste gate is open since it is beside the turbine wheel, I will have a look in a few days. If you are able to get a pressure gauge , tee off from the pipe that goes to the fuel pump boost diaphram. If you have pressure then the problem will be in the fuel pump, a broken membrane or sticking fuel pin. Hope that helps.
  10. Start with the simple and cheap.... Fuel filter and air filter. The air filter can be totally soaked in oil from the crankcase breather if it goes to the air filter. A simple loose clip on the intercooler hoses will lose a lot of power, or a leak in the intercooler core. The hoses can delaminate inside and so block or reduce the air flow. The waste gate may be jammed open? Is the turbo badly worn? look at the compressor wheel and feel if there is any radial movement, what is the oil consumption? Try to set up a pressure gauge ( 0 to 1.5 or 2bar) in the vehicle and drive it to see what boost pressure the turbo gives. Without working the engine you will find it hard to get any boost pressure , unless you rev it to well over 2500rpm. Hope that helps.
  11. I did a LT 230 rebuild 7 years ago and do not remember needing anything special. Any special tools for me are homemade out of the lathe , welder and drill in the workshop . so , sorry cannot be of much help. What are you trying to diagnose on the turbo?
  12. The plug is M12 x1.5mm . The outlet to the boost diaphram 1/8" npt. Hope that helps.
  13. There is a set of Cooper Discoverer tyres outside my door from Holland , half worn, date 3715 with sidewalls cracked all round, so unfortunately you are not alone.
  14. 25,000kms later I cut open the filter and there is 2mm deposit of sludge so it is doing its job.
  15. Very nice trailer. Mine would have had drop in sides like that. There are the remains of the Ferguson transfer/logo on the front corners of mine. The tractor went to my brother -in_-law complete with original purchase invoice and guarantee card, a one owner tractor. It also has a mid mounted mower, complete and working. The MF 140 that I had from the landlord had a frosted cylinder head. I rewelded the parts that had lifted between the injectors , put antifreeze in and it has worked perfectly for the last 10years.
  16. I collected the same trailer from my landlord's barn last year. The trailer bed is like new but the sides are missing. The tyres still had 20 psi in them and the tipping ram loses about about a cupful of oil whilst tipping. The MF 145 had an oil change , and a battery and started instantly and no need to put any air in the tyres either. They had not moved for over 30 years at the least. They don't make them like it anymore.
  17. I have 175A Anderson connectors on all my vehicles . RRC diesel, Matbro telescopic, JD tractors ( 7.6l diesel) and assorted other plant . I have13m of 50mm2 jump leads . No problems of excess heat in the plugs when starting at -20°C and about 20secs of cranking.
  18. The plot thickens...... One of the main relays (R9) was bridged permanently. When replaced with a relay the 450mA drain became 20mA which seems correct, then there is no fuel pump running when you try to start on the key and the red high temp warning light stays on when all the others are extinguished. Put the bridge back and it starts and runs no warning lights. This is a German market vehicle and the fuse and relay allocations seem to be slightly different to the French and English. I have running and dead french vehicles to compare . Anyone have any german documentation links? I think I am starting at page 1 of the rave electrical to see what has been done to the original wiring............
  19. History....basically a tidy runner, 150K kms. but the last owner apparently used it as a camp site tug and for playing in sand /mud. I have only driven it 5kms on a track to compare it to mine, before it gets a complete check over and sets off for for its next 100K kms. I imagine the last owner completely removed the immobiliser. If you leave the remote control fob away from the vehicle and turn the key it starts. My tests were done with the key on the dashboard. No flat battery...just me looking around to what problems there are before they happen if possible . I will have some RAVE electrical bedtime reading to do find out how everything ties together, RRC diesels are much simpler but apparently I ought to move into a more modern world. I will try to give some updates if and when progress is made.
  20. D2 manual air suspension and ACE. No volumetric alarm installed and immobiliser by-passed (no flashing red light ever) with Webasto night heater but no controller. When all switched off there is a 450mA discharge at the battery, which is more than just the clock! The MAF sensor is always warm, so I disconnected the 3 pin socket and measured the voltages (avometer) 1 - 2 0 V 1 - 3 0.5V dithering 2 - 3 7.0V stable Any ideas from the Td5 ecu experts most welcome........
  21. Thank you for the suggestions. I want to fit a stand alone gauge so that I can follow the engine temp closely since there are plenty of hills around here and I tow regularly. My 'copilot' had the nanocom plugged in on one journey to follow the real temperature, on the level 78-80°C then uphill climbing up to 96°C and the 'idiot ' gauge had hardly moved. The Gore Products replacement looks to be the answer . Not cheap especially when everyone has added their share to get it this side of the water, only consolation...cheaper than a cooked engine.
  22. I would like to add a proper water temperature gauge to my D2. My initial idea is to fit a tee to the existing sender on the cylinder head outlet. What have other people done ? Is there somewhere else that may be better or easier?
  23. We wanted to reuse the pistons, which are stainless steel, so I had to find a non-destructive method of getting them out.
  24. Mine has survived 10 years without any signs of damage from the granite in the Massif Central. Keep the safety lock and hinge pin lubricated, it is out in the weather all the time and has a habit of rusting up,, from experience.
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