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Diff

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Diff last won the day on September 26 2014

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About Diff

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  • Location
    Fareham, UK

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  • Interests
    4x4s, m/c trials, adventure travel.
    Bio: Ex Plant and machinery fitter, off road buggy builder, modified trialler, Overlander and now family man with very little spare time for much of anything!

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  1. 235 85 16 Steel Wheel Width

    6 inch is the standard minimum rim width for 238 85 X 16 and 7 inch is the maximum. Standard Land Rover white rims are 5.5 inch, wolf's are 6.5, standard Land Rover alloys are 7 inch. Most standard aftermarket modulars etc are 7 inch. 8 inch is too wide. Regards Diff.
  2. My 2.5 petrol 110 CSW has been running on LPG for at least 10 years. I converted it myself with a kit from Iwema. It has been utterly reliable, and I never use petrol, not even to start in sub zero conditions. This system is a simple single point system, and has no ECU. Unfortunately, most modern systems are more sophisticated and require an ECU etc. regards, Diff.
  3. Leccy fan AGAIN LOL

    Ford Mondeo for me too.
  4. LT77 gearbox oil

    In the past, I have tried both the Difflock evo oil and Land rover's MTF in my LT77, in both cases I switched back to ATF because the slight notchiness of the gear change was made worse. I now use the ATF which is recommended by Ashcroft Transmissions on their website for LT77 gearboxes(Triple QX ATF Dextron III from Euro car parts). They should know what works. I am very happy with it. My gearbox has now done 188,000 miles on ATF and the notchiness is no worse than it was at 100,000 miles. Regards, Diff.
  5. LR 90 2.5L petrol timing

    Disconnect VAC hose for dynamic timing check. Regards, Diff.
  6. Mapping help

    Can you not get all the mapping and info you need from "Tracks4africa"? I have used their mapping for Botswana years ago and it was very good, cheap, and Garmin compatible. Regards, Diff.
  7. Sorry SvBeek, I don't have a rev counter. However, I have put the gearbox, diff and tyre specs, in Ashcrofts ratio calculator and it comes out with this: Fourth at 70mph = 4382rpm, Fifth at 70mph = 3642rpm Fifth at 80mph = 4162rpm This is probably right, though the revs may be slightly higher in reality as I can just about hit 70mph in 4th if I rev it hard. My Land Rover will do 75 to 80 mph on the flat in 5th providing there isn't a headwind. A motorway hill will see the speed drop off to 60mph in 5th. Hope this helps, Regards, Diff.
  8. I don't have an ACR full kit, but I have a 2.5 petrol with an ACR cam and a Turners 9.1 stage 2 head in my 1985 110 CSW (standard twin choke webber carb). I run the standard (for 2.25 and 2.5 na 110s) 1.6 transfer box and 235/86 x16 AT tyres too. I run on LPG 99.9% of the time. Yes, it is a bit noisy at 70 - 80mph, but not as bad as a TDi. A lot of the noise is wind/road noise. It is quiet below 50mph. It does mean that the revs are continuously high on the motorway, but I drive mine to keep up with modern traffic and have been doing so for around 10 years with this set up. Hope this helps, Regards, Diff
  9. Hot drive flanges

    I agree with some of the previous posts. In my experience, hot drive flange is caused by heat transfer from either a wheel bearing that has been set too tight (or is already seizing), or brake drag issues caused by a seized caliper, seized wheel cylinder or brake shoes that have been adjusted too close to the drum. Regards, Diff.
  10. theoretical MegaJolt Q.

    Are you sure you haven't got other problems such as a carburettor fault or old/dirty petrol? It is a long time since I worked on these, and yes, they are a bit different from a conventional set up because they have no distributor, just a points box which switches the double ended coil which fires both spark plugs at the same time. Have you checked that the centrifugal advance mechanism behind the points box is not seized/sticky? Have you used the static method of setting the timing using a 6mm diameter rod through the engine case into the flywheel timing hole? Although a bit of a pain having to take the fan off to get at the points box, I always found setting the timing as per the manual worked fine for me. Which is why I am wondering if you have a different underlying problem causing the poor starting/running. I always found the engines utterly bulletproof and very well designed and engineered (albeit low powered). They can be ragged all day long and still capable of 60 to 70mph all day on the motorway (hills and noise/wind not withstanding!). From memory the 2cv 602cc is 29 BHP and the Dyane 602cc is 31 BHP! I would suggest that megajolt would be an waste of time and money unless you are planning to race it. Good luck, hope you sort it. Regards, Diff.
  11. SU Carb restoration/overhaul

    There are two parts to 'matching' multiple carburettors. Balancing is set so that both carburettors flow the same volume of air (throttle butterflies open the same amount) and the same fuel air ratio (mixture). Then the carbs are synchronised so that when the throttle is operated, both carb butterfies open the same amount, and because of the balancing, will flow the same fuel air mix and volume at the same time. Regards, Diff.
  12. 90 stolen southampton/portsmouth area

    I'll keep my eyes open for it Mike. Dark blue or light blue? Comiserations to the owner. I know I would be gutted if mine went. Regards, Diff
  13. I agree with Retroanaconda - I would definately have a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) laid if at all possible. It may have been included in the spec, but plenty of garage floors don't have them as they aren't for a 'habitable' room. Regards, Diff.
  14. 110 CSW rear window dims needed asap

    Hi Tom, I have a 1985 110 CSW and I have just measured the total visible glass area each side to be 1030mm x 400mm. Note that the windows are made of two overlapping sliding bits of glass so you won't have a single flat surface of the entire dimension as above. If you are thinking of a single large 'sticker', you may need to take this into account. Don't forget the corners are radiused too. Hope this helps, Regards, Diff.
  15. As Ralph/Western noted, ALL wheel bearings should be greased upon assembly. This is standard in all the workshop manuals, regardless of whether or not the vehicle is the older type which does not have the inner seals to stop the migration of oil from the axle case. By packing the bearings with grease, it gives the bearings the important initial lubrication to stop any wear before the oil gets to the bearings, plus it also means that when the hub does get flooded with oil from the axle case, the oil mixes with the grease to give a nice thick sludge of lubricant which is less likely to leak, which will stay stuck to all bearing surfaces even if the vehicle is left standing for long periods, and which will resist water contamination damage far better than oil alone. Regards, Diff.
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