Diff

Recently done this on my 1985 110. Workshop manual says 65-80 Nm or 48-59 lb/ft. Regards, Diff.

Anderzander - difficult to say whether it is smoother or quieter. Seat of the pants feeling is that it 'may' be slightly smoother. Not sure I can say it is quieter, probably about the same. Snagger - with Vulcan Bomber's kit, fitting the 3 circular shims (washers) when fitting the spacer/ring keeps the tension on the springs the same as it would have been without the new dynamic advance spacer/ring. Other manufacturers may supply less shims/washers of different thicknesses in their kits, which also may or may not reduce tension on the springs. I can't compare, as I haven't looked at other manufacturers. Regards, Diff.

I recently bought one of Vulcan Bomber's dynamic timing advance spacer rings. It comes with 3 shims, 4 seals (so you can experiment with different numbers of shims), 2 replacement bolts and instructions. Very nice quality: Background: I rebuilt the 300tdi in my 110 a year or so ago with a new billet turbo core, new standard head, new rings etc. The injector pump and injectors were left untouched and standard. As far as I can tell the pump has never been touched, no sign of the screws being tampered with. The timing is set per the manual using timing pins. Standard intercooler. No boost pin, no pump tweeks. It has always run well, starts first time even without heater plugs (which aren’t wired in) even at minus 5 degrees C. It has always pulled strongly, and happy at motorway speeds. However, despite being pleased with the 110's performance, I was intrigued to try the dynamic timing advance spacer ring. The spacer ring is a little fiddly to fit. I temporarily removed one of the bolts holding the pump mounting bracket to the engine block to make a bit more space. I needed to use a hammer and small cold chisel to start loosening the 2 torx cap head screws holding the timing advance mechanism cap on. I could then fiddle the screws out with my fingers and a T30 torx bit. Care is needed not to drop the coil springs as the cap comes off. If you fit the new spacer with the 3 shims supplied, the pump advance mechanism is able to apply a few more degrees of total advance compared to standard at higher engine speeds, allowing each gear to 'rev a bit higher' and the engine pull a bit harder, without affecting the timing advance curve, thereby keeping the speed at which injection timing is advanced the same as factory. Base idle timing/low speed timing is unaffected. However, the instructions suggest trying the ring with 2 shims fitted rather than all 3. This reduces the tension on the springs slightly and effectively changes the advance curve so that the injection timing advances slightly earlier, as well as increasing the total advance as with 3 shims fitted. Base idle timing/low speed timing is unaffected. Refitting the timing advance mechanism cap, new spacer with the slightly longer supplied allen cap head screws is made easier with a cut down 5mm Allen key. Results: I have fitted the spacer with 2 of the shims and it has made a very noticeable difference. The engine is even more flexible in the midrange and the acceleration has improved too. It builds boost faster and it is hard to resist the temptation not to enjoy the performance gain all the time! Presumably the factory dynamic advance curve and total advance settings are fairly conservative, allowing us to add a bit more timing advance, perhaps because modern diesel fuel has a higher cetane rating than the engine design was set up to cope with originally? Hope this is of interest, Regards, Diff.

I have recently been going down the rabbit hole of looking online at loads of aero engined specials like 'Brutus' and dreaming of having the funds and time to build something as outrageous!

I share your sentiments! Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to one and all! Best wishes, Diff.

I have been using 6mm .20g precision BBs for many years in several sets of road tyres. They work perfectly. Several threads on balancing here: Regards, Diff.

If the rear shoes are adjusted up ok, and you still have a long pedal travel, it is possible that the shoes have been fitted the wrong way round. If you see my recent posts in a thread about Salisbury axle brake shoes, you will see what I mean. Common problem, and worth a check. Regards, Diff.

What a nightmare! Glad you and yours have got through it. Regards, Diff.

Hi Gazzar, yes, that's correct. If you look at the drawing you posted from the manual, it shows the position of the brake linings on the shoes as the defining factor in deciding which is the leading shoe, however, as you have discovered, many replacement shoes don't have the brake linings bonded to the shoes in the same place as the originals. Therefore the defining factor in deciding which is the leading shoe is the position of the pins in the shoes, not the position of the linings. The manual makes no mention of the relevance of the pins that the adjusters act on. But, if you look at the drawing in the manual, you can just see the edge of the adjusters behind the shoes where one is at a different height to the other. Your photos of the brake back plate clearly shows that the adjusters are at different heights and that the pins on the shoes are too. Many thanks for illustrating my points so well. Good luck with the rest of the build. Look forward to seeing it done. Regards, Diff.

Unfortunately, many people including professional mechanics and Land Rover enthusiasts get the fitting of Salisbury rear axle brake shoes wrong. This often results in difficulty fitting, adjusting the shoes and getting a decent pedal height. The reasons for getting it wrong are not surprising and mistakes are easily made because: 1. The workshop manuals are not clear which one is the leading shoe 2. There is a lot of incorrect information posted on the internet 3. Some pattern part manufacturers put the same length linings on both leading and trailing shoes which make them look identical, but they are not. 4. Putting new shoes on, copying what was fitted, assumes that the last person in there did it correctly. I have read many threads by people unable to get a decent pedal height, some of those may be because of this issue. This was the case with my 1985 110. With the shoes fitted the wrong way, the brakes worked (not brilliantly), but the pedal would go further on the first press than was desirable, even when adjusted to be almost dragging, often requiring a second press. With the shoes on the correct way and adjusted, the brakes were instantly better and engaged as soon as the pedal was pressed. No slack. As above, the leading shoe is the one with the pin lowest on the shoe. Regards, Diff.

It is likely that you have the correct shoes. Some aftermarket makes have the same length linings on trailing and leading shoes, unlike the originals. The defining feature which distinguishes the leading and trailing shoes, is the height of the pin which the adjuster acts on. The leading shoe is the one with the pin lower down the shoe than the trailing shoe. Leading shoe goes closest to front of vehicle. If fitted incorrectly, and or the adjusters are not backed off correctly in relation to the pins, adjustment and or fitting will be difficult. The details on this link apply to both series and defender 110 salisbury axles. http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_rearbrakes.htm Hope you get it sorted, regards, Diff.

Sorry to disagree with Steve, but the minimum wheel width for a 235/85×16 tyre is 6 inch. Yes, they do fit on standard 5.5inch land rover wheels, and some land rover owners do run them. But, if you want to do it 'by the book'. 6inch rims are the minimum stated by tyre manufacturers. Hope this helps, Regards, Diff.

It sounds like perhaps there is no free play at the clutch pedal/mastercylinder. This may have altered from standard when you changed the mastercylinder. The nuts on the mastercylinder pushrod are used to set up the free play and pedal height. If there is no free play, the clutch system can 'pump' up after a number of applications of the clutch, causing clutch slip. Similarly, the flexible clutch hose can deteriorate internally causing a ' one way' valve effect, holding the clutch open for a while. Regards, Diff.

Sad news indeed. Sorry to lose such a well respected Land Rover enthusiast. RIP. Regards, Diff.

The problem is you used to have the early type sill mounted seals which are rivited through a 'P' section strip of steel which is spot welded to the steel sill channel. You have not removed the 'P' section strip from the sill so the seals on the doors are probably hitting the 'P' section rather than closing on the sill channel. Regards, Diff.