Disco-Ron

I have now looked at the parts book..... and there are vented and non vented options.... Next question..... would a petrol v8 work with a non vented cap...... or does it need the vent to let air in to replace the fuel that's being used at an alarming rate!

As above. .. now running a 3.9 efi and I can smell fuel around the cap and when I enter the garage. ..... ie. Its evaporating. ..... just wondered if there is a difference in the caps.... ta

The outer seats are slightly more inboard on the puma. So must be a tight fit.....

Turns out that even the new alternator had failed causing the light issue. Which enabled it to back feed power to the ignition circuit causing alsorts of other things. .... mainly a really bad misfire which I spent all week chasing. .... sorting the alternator sorted everything else too...... still can't quite work out how. ....

Checked the wiring and it's definitely correct... bit odd.... Have a random misfire issue..... got a trial in it on Sunday.... bloody annoying as it seems to come and go.....

From memory I connected the light to brown/yellow. ... will have to check everything again. ... its been a bit of a monumental rebuild. .. bare chassis to finished article in 8 weeks flat. Single handed in spare time. ....

Just finished fitting a 3.9 efi auto in my 90.... Charge wire from alternator fitted to starter as standard. Charge light wire connected a before. First switch on all was well. Light illuminated and went out when stsrted. Then the light came back on when switched off and now won't go out. Have disconnected the light wire from alternator and it still charges. .. what would cause the light to effectively work in reverse? ?... Its hotwire. .. and oddly wouldn't run after the first start until I disconnected the wire.... confused. Com

It's off... Thanks Ralph. Simply knowing I was trying to undo it the right way and popping to halfrauds to acquire a 1/2 drive socket thing with allen key and it came undone pretty easily. ....

It does indeed. ... but its muther f er tight.... already broken one allen key off..... Thanks. .. I'll try again!

How? ?... left or right handed thread? ? Ta

No donut and axles are tight... ish. Fully suspect output shaft and input gear.... Hopefully it'll last a while..... need to recover from assembling an entire 90 onto a bare chassis in 8 weeks flat.... Oh. And going to work in the meantime...

Its not axle related as it was fine before it became auto. .. do the auto boxes have the same sort of input shaft as the manual ones... I'm wondering if the input gear/output shaft might be worn.....

Sorry. I should have said. .. its the lt230 from the discovery that supplied the engine and box. ..

I have just today driven my 90 that is now powered by a discovery 3.9 v8 efi auto. There appears to be quite a bit of slop between on and throttle. .. Unsure if it's slop in the transfer box itself or from the input side. .. do these suffer with such things. And do they fail. Or do people just live with it. .. ta

If it was me I'd weld some nuts on some steel rather than wait for a delivery ...

Ralph. Without questioning your competence is it possible that one of the prop circlips wasn't fully home? .I only ask as I had a failure immediately after doing a uj a few years ago and one of the cups flew out as soon as i got up to speed. .. thankfully my damage was very limited. .. you weren't quite so lucky. . just a thought that everyone could bear in mind. ..

Did you decide what to do David? ?

My mounts were removed from the discovery chassis that donated the engine and box and welded in place by me. ... need for speeds look slightly higher if anything. . David. The gearbox mounts are slightly slotted. Have you tried sliding them as far back as they will go to see if the engine mount bolts clear the mounts on the chassis? ?.. if they do what about simply cutting a 6mm thick adapter that bolts to both mounts. ... rather than cut anything or modify either mounts ...

I would be very surprised if production in some form doesn't continue somewhere. .. bodywork might be an issue though if lr just stop making it...

this is where my mounts are. ... which I believe is standard v8 position

What I was basically getting at is that you're trying to use a combination that wasn't used . Therefore mounts may not exist to achieve your goal. .. or very rare if they do. ..

I might be wrong but I don't think lr ever used an lt77 behind the v8 in a defender. .. moving the gearbox forward may well mess up the tunnel etc. moving the engine backwards will mean non standard hoses and exhaust etc..

I have pictures of exactly where my engine mounts are. ... I used the gearbox mounts from the donor discovery. .. my old set up which was 3.5 and lt77 had the engine sat 2 inches further back than stock v8... will try to remember to upload pictures when I'm not on the phone!

I have just gone from an old chassis with a 3.5 and long stick lt77 to a new chassis with 3.9 auto. . I welded the engine mounts where the factory v8 ones were fitted and it all bolted up ok. interestingly if your disco front prop is too short surely that means that the engine needs to be moved forward. . The question is. What combination of engine and box did you have previously? ?. if you've come from a 300 that's why you're wrong. The 300 & 200/v8 props are different lengths. . from what I've been able to establish anyway

As far as I'm aware they only fit one way correctly. .. they fit back to front. But the port holes don't line up. .. check the ports line up before assembly. .. don't ask how I know! !