Disco-Ron

You don't have to modify the actual bulkhead to go around the gearbox. .. you simply get a different tunnel and the adaptor that fits between the tunnel and bulkhead. .. of course you'd need a later seat box aswel.....

Thanks dave. .. as I thought! ..

Can anyone tell me if the later 3.9 v8 efi ones had the early ecu plug. Ie 2row. Or the later 3row 14cux version.... I have been sent what was sold ad a 3.9 efi loom. But its the two row type ecu plug. .... Thanks

I have found that 15% argon and 85co2 works best for me. ....

Thanks bowie. Have ordered some resistors hopefully that'll do the trick. ....

I have the above engine in my 90. But I've removed the original cats and want to now remove the lambdas. Hence I need to change the tune resistor. No one seems able to get the original part. So it looks like I need to make one. Is it simply a case of changing the actual resistor. I understand I need a 470ohm 1/2 watt resistor. But as I'm not sn electric guru I'm unsure if they are the only specs I need to look for. .. many thanks. Ron

Found this thread through searching about tune resistors...... I need a green non cat one, but no one can get it..... Is it simply a case of getting a 470ohm resistor and swapping it for the existing one??

Hi all.... currently struggling to get my head around how to pipe the afm on my truck. ... can anyone show me what you've done to save me wasting money on pipes for it not to work. .. thanks

Why two cables from the alternator... to battery and starter...... most go to the starter as its on the engine already....

Almost sounds like the front prop is loose! !

Only a few weeks ago I had a chassis blasted and dipped. Total cost for that was just over 300.... If it had been an older chassis I would have had it blasted first. Then repaired it. Then dipped it.... one thing to bear in mind is the amount of crud that gets inside the chassis. I have just cut the old one up. And one section is almost solid. Dipping won't cure that !

You can still buy a classic mini bodyshell......ok. not a whole car,but the biggest component...

Longer travel shocks and dropping them reduces their possible upwards travel. You're probably bottoming out the shocks rather than hitting the bump stops. ..

The part you've shown as missing is the gearbox cross member. Sometimes these are bolt in items anyway. ..

I have just re channelled mine. However I'm yet to test it as the truck isn't on the road yet. .

Its possible that the weights in the bottom of the dizzy have come adrift............. i had this on my knackered old 3.5............

Thanks. . Spellchecker will teach me to read the post before I post it..... I'll be using the standard discovery filter housing for now. .. might see what's about when time isn't so pressing.... thanks

I'm fitting a hotwire v8 in my defender, and the original discovery inlet arrangement won't fit easily...... I'm probably going to move the Mac to behind the throttle cable.... what I'm interested in is ... is there a recognized maximum length between the Mac and inlet...... I've heard stories of other engines making more torque the longer the length, to a point, but I suspect in my case a few extra inches probably won't make any difference...... Still an interesting question though, for me anyway.....

Bezt one I've seen local to me id s car port. or in reality. A scaffold frame wrapped in packaging cling film. .... as long as you don't do any grinding it could be quite effective. .. its pretty strong stuff in multiple layers.

I think it probably depends on the age of the vehicle. Mine is sn 86..... I think the newer 300era ones had more relays. ... possibly one for the starter. .. mine doesn't have. But will most likely have one soon. . I'm going to use the supplementary fuse box from a 300 to power a few things. ...

Thanks Dave, fair point..... I can see that it's the wiring that will be the make or break of this rebuild.... I'm already losing sleep over it all.....

Exactly what I have in mind...... Thanks for confirming that it should work.....

I'm just about at the point of wiring my truck after quite an extensive rebuild, which has included fitting a 3.9 v8 and auto box. If someone could point me to a wiring guide for the hotwire side of things that would be great, (I've searched extensively).... however this question relates to the starter inhibitor, am I right in thinking that I can effectively take the wire that currently goes to the starter solenoid and wire it through the park/neutral switch and back to the solenoid, the switch is connected when in park and neutral so I assume that as the solenoid wire is only a trigger wire it should work if I do what I've suggested......

Also be aware that a 300 gearbox, assuming diesel, won't just bolt to a v8..

It will bolt pretty much straight in as long as you don't mind the gearlevers coming out through the centre seat. Also depends slightly what engine you're bolting it to. ...