Disco-Ron

Having cut off the rear cross member. I can confirm that there is paint everywhere inside. . I can only assume some sort of electrostatically adhered finish. It's not very thick hence why the new chassis rot out in no time. ... also hence my desire to dip.... a trip to dudley will cost me a day off work each time. .. being self employed sucks.... anyone that says differently is either lying or able to charge way more than I can. ..

Thanks for the replies. ... The biggest current issue is that I'm about as far south as you can get. .. so even dudley is not really an option when delivery and collection is considered. ....plus I doubt that the process is cheap bearing in mind that the actual galvanising will be less than £100.... Looks like I'll get it blasted and dipped then throw loads of waxoyl in it......

Hi. I am mid build on a chassis to go under my truck. I started with a brand new genuine chassis from land rover, so no dodgy goings on before you think that. I have strengthened and added and removed brackets etc, including cage mounts. The galvanizing co are concerned about the fact that the chassis has paint on the inside, obviously the outside can be blasted clean, but not the inside.... They say that the acid dip they use won't remove the paint, and that the galvanizing won't stick to anything other than bare metal.... The question is, what have others done, plenty of people have had chassis dipped, just don't know what has happened to the inside... Thanks

http://www.vehicleglazingspecialists.com/-110-products.html

Cut the gaiter. One nut and away you go. ....

Most things will fit. The rear cross member is a bit different. But perfectly use able. .. biggest differences are engine mounts and lack of radiator mounts. The newer ones also don't have side fuel tank mounts. ..

Many thanks, as useful as ever!!

First post now has the right numbers.... wrote the post from memory, not the pictures I'd taken.....

Both listed as ecu for 3.9 discovery. ... just wondered what the difference might be. Ta In typical me fashion I got the part numbers wrong..... Should be AMR 3242 and 3276...... doh

Some cross members come with a brace between the chassis leg extensions. .. maybe they just didn't remove it..... There shouldn't be anything across there anyway. ..

As part of the build process on my brand new chassis. I have to plate the ends of the A frame cross member. So rather than just plate over what was there. I removed it. And what did I find? ?. Yup. Rust. This is a chassis that has never been a vehicle. It has been sat outside stacked for a while. But has never been covered in mud or anything. Yet it's rusty inside. My advice to anyone with a newer truck should inject the cross member with something like waxoyl or similar. ....

Go direct. You're guaranteed to get what you wanted that way.....

The tdci engine mounts are quite big. And would I'm sure be in the way. Ss with the gearbox mounts. The tdci has those welded to the chassis. Not bolted on... I'm mid way through building my truck onto a new chassis I got from a main dealer. Mine is v8 auto. So I have removed the engine and box mounts. I personally wouldn't see a tdci as an upgrade!

Remove and flush the intercooler. .. it could have plenty of oil in it due to the previously worn turbo. But it's only apparent when on boost.... did you bleed the cooling system correctly? ?

I personally prefer more than a flag paper gap. After all there is a rubber bush that will soften and take impact, last thing I want is a hole punched in my axle casing...

I have one from a 110 going in my 90 with auto. But undecided yet where the shifter is going. ...

Tdci uses the same mounts at the seat end of the tunnel as the td5. .. and should bolt straight in. The seats are seemingly about 20mm further inboard for some reason. .. Therefore the middle seat might be slightly narrower. If you have one

Thanks guys. .... options options.....

Thanks guys. .... options options.....

Sounds like an option. ... needs to be close to hand so I can shift on the move. ... it's basically for rtv work. So pretty much all slow speed work. ... Thanks!

Excellent. ... Thanks everyone! !

I'm going to be re routing the transmission cooler pipes on my 90 and wondered if I can get away with cutting the original metal pipe alongside the engine sump and simply using half inch rubber pipe with clips. Or is the pressure likely to blow the pipes apart.... Thanks

Thanks Paul, I have a metal cubby box so maybe I could move it backwards and extend it forwards.... I'm currently at the bare chassis stage so can't really work it out quite yet...

I'm building a 90 v8 auto and wondered where people have put the shifter when they've done it.... anyone got any pictures? ?. Ta

Davie. Try wrapping the washer pipe around the heater pipes. And remove the one way valve...... The pipes won't freeze and you will get a modicum of warmth in the water.