Disco-Ron

I see.............. 4 pin diff perhaps..??

Ah, so when it was stated it'd be ok to fit a late td5 axle, it should have perhaps said late td5 '110' axle...???? Again, whats the difference..???

As i understand it, but i could be wrong, the later axles are still 24 spline..... this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2006-LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-TD5-ABS-REAR-AXLE-complete-/370388445846?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item563cdf2a96 appears to me to look identical to the axle in the back of my 300 defender..... or are there internal differences that i don;t know about..??

Just out of interest, how is the late TD5 axle different to earlier axles..???

Why not fit a non salisbury rear axle complete with arb then....... and stronger shafts, that way its simpler, and possibly as strong as the salisbury......??

Richard, i had to list the mods to my truck, ie, D44 front bumper.... if in an accident or whatever, thay wouldn't bolt ona stadard bumper, but a D44 heavy duty one..... ie, like for like... I like this option, as most of us spend a fortune on none standard bits, if you end up in an accident, then you could potentially get a standard truck back and have to start again, but not if insured like for like....

Thats all very well, however i have recently become the glass contact in our local club, and the info on the trialwise site is so far out of date it might aswell not be there at-all!! it needs everyone that uses lanes to keep the records updated, otherwise the system fails....

I have mounted my albright right up at the top of the inner wing next to the washer bottle, out of 99% of the carp...!!

I'm with Adrian flux, good price, mods are like for like, and i only get things from them by email, so no post, i simply print off the important stuff! I tried NFU, but they wanted over double what Adrian flux quoted.... i don;t think they were interested!

I had this issue on mine, i welded on new outrigers, and have now ordered a new chassis as a result of the corrosion.... new outriggers are ok, but they're made to fit inside the existing ones in the chassis... so the corrosion is still there...... hence the chassis! plus it needs a cross member anyway, so gonna do the job properly!

Paul, be prepared for breaking diffs..... standard nes won;t like the extra strain, esp if you like giving it some beans!!!

It'll depend what springs you havem stabndard or HD ones..... the HD ones sit higher....

Why oh why would anyone even bother listing this..... no-one will ever pay THAT for it...........!!!!!!!!!!! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Differential-Rear-Axle-3-54-FTC1709N-/330425626989?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ceee6f16d

Thanks Marc............ i didn;t think i was THAT stupid.... some do though!!

IOf you have both front wheels in the air, then even with diff lock in, they will still spin in opposites directions.............. if you only have one wheel off the ground, then assuming the handbrake is on, it shouldn;t spin ...... well, it will a little bit, but not a full turn...

5mm Mo, i think 8 would have been over the top..... its bolted on through the existing four bumper bolts, two through the front cross member, and the two front winch bolts go through the bumper aswell as the plate........ so, bearing in mind i can only pull what a stuck 90 weighs, i think that'll be plenty......

You could have a short between the two wires in the lead up to the trigger, see if you can disconnect the cables that go into the wander cable, and see if the cable feed stops.......... if it does, you need to re-wire it...............

I wanted a winch trya that sat on the originalt style bumper, so that the winch would sit higher, i also didn;t want it stuck out the front too far, so, no-one makes a tray like that, so i made it......... what d'ya think..??

Well, just been and taken a few pics............ i wanted it higher than most mounts, so thats what i made, i wanted it not sticking out past the front bumper face, so thats what i made...... i wanted it looking nice, and i think it does............ bolts on with the four bumper bolts, and two through the front cross member, aswell as the front two winch bolts actually going through the bumper aswell...... so i don;t think it'll come off! made in 5mm steel, and powder coated, and all for less than £50!!

Its worth checking that the circlips are still in place........... i did a prop once, and as soon as i got up to speed, the circlip that wasn't fully in the groove flew out, as did the uj cup, follwed by the uj.... ended up taking the prop off to drive home!

Well, it took me a few weeks, but i now have exactly what i wanted bolted on my truck, will hopefully get round to taking some pics, maybe tomorrow...... i'm on a trial tomorrow, so might get some action pics...

Looks to me like you'll have to grind the flange off totally aswell.........................

So, in short, it's basically a pain in the arse job that most people find awkward...........LOL.... Maybe its time someone came up with a solution, seeing as there are SO many defenders with non standard bumpers out there...............

aha.............. i can see a lump of gaffer tape being used............... i did wonder about taking the bung out, but got soooooooooooo pee'd off, i gave up and came in.... Cheers!

Bolt on my HD bumper..... I thought i was being clever and bought brand new bolts, and captive plates..... however, as my new bumoer is 5mm thick, and the originals aren't, the captive plates won't sit flat on the bottom of the bumper and let me get the bolts through..... How does everyone else manage it..