Disco-Ron

Get the new tube..... that will then tell you if its a friction fit or threaded.... if friction simply drill it out. Best to remove the carb..... if threaded you might have to still drill it out but using a smaller drill and then maybe visit a local engineering suppliers for a tap the right thread to clean it out. .

If I was going to continue to add mods to it then I would consider ms...... However the only thing that will happen when needed is a rebuild. .. thankfully I think its a while away from that yet..

Thanks mickey..... I'm on 235/85's..... and based on that post alone I'll be swapping to the 1.4.... I find hills a bore.... and whilst I'll end up using more revs I suspect that the end result will be a nicer drive... also toying with the optimax chip to make it run better. .. it goes really well but figure I might as well get the best out of what I have. ...

I have two 1.4's sat in the garage. .. but lack the enthusiasm to take it apart again. ...

Jon...... slightly off topic but can I ask how you find the gearing. ... I have a 3.9 auto in my 90 but with the 1.2 transfer box. .. it locks up at just over 50.... but it feels like I'm always on the gas trying to get there. .. have been considering a 1.4 box as I think it would help. ..

If oil pressure at start up is a concern. .. why not fit an additional switch on the live to the stop solenoid. .. (potential anti theft addition too)... That way you could crank the engine for a while from cold without fuel. .. allowing pressure to build. .. then glick the switch and away you go. ...

Correct.... no immobiliser in the ecu... op. Pm me your email address and I'll scan the wiring diagram I have and send it to you. .... helped me no end when I did mine. ... Ron

Depending on who you trial with check what you're allowed to do within the regs first

The place I found rust was under the end plate of the centre/A frame crossmember...... The end plate is welded around the bottom which then stops the water that gets in getting out..... I would be treating the inside of that area with as much treatment as its possible to apply .....

Definitely worth getting it protected. ... I recently purchased a new genuine chassis for a project and when removing certain pieces of it to strengthen it I found rust.... brand new chassis never built up to a vehicle let alone used on salty rds...... not in your area so can't recommend anyone. ...

Double post

If you go auto then you need to wire the starter inhibitor switch. I put the strarter wire from the ignition through the inhibitor to a relay with a separate feed for the relay.... You'll also need to figure out the reversing light switch which combined with the inhibitor. ... quite simple but another set of wiring to consider. ...

There are four or five wires for the ecu.... which will control the fuel pump. ... don't wire it independently. ... its actually quite simple once you get your head around it. ..

If the rubber split could you not remove the pipe and get a hydraulic hose place to fit a new section?

I've always been more than happy with their service, and certainly the products are among the best I've ever experienced..... I have placed orders for items that weren't in stock without payment being taken, how many other suppliers would do that..... most just want your money, but I genuinely feel that the D44crew want you to be happy..... or at least that's my experience.....

I have a 3.9 auto in my rtv truck and I'm pretty sure that it helped in me winning yesterday's trial. .. being able to maintain drive at 1mph by holding it on the brakes works wonders for creeping over obstacles. ... be prepared for mind numbing fuel consumption though!

Always as an absolute minimum check that the chassis number matches the v5.... what you get told and the truth can be very different things..... If the number doesn't match. Walk away, it's that simple..... if the chassis doesn't have a number, try to check for grinding marks..... also study the chassis and see if it's the original land rover design.....

There should be a piece of angle bolted to the flange at the back that the lids go under

Before you consider anything you need to know what rules you'll be governed by, then you won't get a nasty surprise having spent a small fortune and possibly not be able to use it!!

I want to upgrade anyway, as the calipers are old and the discs aren't exactly new either, the system works well, i don;t get any veering around under braking, (well, no more than you'd expect on special tracks!) i have noticed that with the reservoir at the full mark, after a trial i have fluid on the inner wing from either the angles we drive at, or expansion and overflow through heat.... hence part of the desire to upgrade, i figure better friction materials and surface type will increase braking without increasing heat going into the fluid.... or thats my theory....

So, i have built myself a v8efi auto 90, for trialling, however obviosuly i have to get to events and back, i have noticed that the brakes are a bit weak, they are currently stock 300 defender brake set up..... from what i see there are almost two many options to choose from, however i have got it down to two options... 1. Early 110 front calipers, (apparentl;y bigger pads) with drilled and grooved solid discs, 2. Late discovery/defender calipers with drilled and grooved vented discs.... I suspect that the two options would pretty much provide the same degree of braking, however there is risk of the vented ones getting full of mud, although we don;t tend to trial in mud thats generally too deep so that may not be worthy of mention.... What are peoples thoughts..?? At the same time i will be renewing the rear brakes with new calipers and possibly drilled and grooved discs, although i tend to go through rear poads quick enough already.... so might just go solid rears....

Any of the southern members see the bit on local news last night about a company called OVIk....?. They produce armoured vehicles for alsorts of uses.... Their website says that they are able to build vehicles with a 300tdi..... I doubt they could claim it was new if it isn't. ... I wonder where they source 'new' ones??

Try the jump lead idea. ... possibly worth adding another earth direct to the starter bolt!

Someone has used it as a feed..... discard and sleeve/wrap the wire...... if the starter works not in the truck. Put a jump lead from battery negative to the bolt holding the starter on and try again. .....

Is the battery nice and strong? Doesn't take much for there to be not enough power to throw the gear into the ring gear.....