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Woody_online

Getting Comfortable
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    http://www.robwoodsart.co.uk
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    Derbyshire - UK
  1. Guys, thanks for the replies and don't worry about insulting any technical knowledge, after a few hours of fault finding I'm surprised I can even remember my own name, let alone a fault finding procedure. These are all good pointers, I'll set about the old girl again with renewed enthusiasm and let you know. Cheers Woody
  2. Hey up peeps, I've just finished banging my head on the Landy with this problem without success and so I thought I'd continue banging it on the forums to see if I could fair any better. I've got a 300tdi Defender 90 which until this winter has been dream. But as we all know, we wake up from dreams and reality takes a swipe! She's developed an electrical fault. When I activate main beam, the fuse for NS blows. Initially I pulled over, replaced the fuse and all worked well again for 2 minutes, then it blew again. Replaced it, same issue. I have 100W spots separately switched and fused, so thought it might be the problem. Set out this morning to solve it as follows: Switched off Aux spots - fuse still goes. Disconnected Aux relay - fuse still goes. Checked the main beam feed to the Aux relay - everything OK. - I've ruled out anything to do with the Aux spots. Since checking this lot out, the fuse no longer waits a couple of minutes, it goes immediately, whether the beam stalk is pushed forward (on full time) or pulled back (flash). I've disconnected the NS headlamp - fuse still goes. Cleaned and checked connections to the headlamp - fuse still goes. Checked connections to the column switch - everything seems in order - fuse still goes. So, now I need a big bag of fuses and some help! Has anyone here experienced the same thing? My next stop is to replace the column switch and see what happens, I also read that there's an earth under the wing somewhere that might be dodgy, what do you think? It may be co-incidence but I replaced the battery a few weeks ago when we had the big freeze and since then, the water temp gauge tells me she's running a fair bit hotter (even in -10 temperatures) and this light issue has sprung up. Does it fit or am I just looking for excuses here? Thanks for your help people
  3. Cheers Matt.... I hadn't realised that there was adjustment at the mounting, but sure enough - you're right. Rob
  4. So I've organised what gauges I need and how to fit the senders, now I offered up the new Mud Console to the dash to check out the position for the gauges, switches and radio and I've noticed that every time I select 1st, 3rd or 5th I'm going to smack the console with my knuckles and more than likely retune to Radio 1 (anything but that, please!). I'm sitting there trying to work out if I can bend the gear lever away from the dash, but it's such a heavy piece of steel rod I'd need to heat it first I reckon....... unless it's possible to purchase a cranked lever? Anybody seen or done anything like this before? Thanks Rob
  5. Mike, That does make sense (water loss sensor...). My previous Landy (300tdi 90 CSW) blew a hole through a core plug, something I didn't notice until almost all the water had pee'd out on a long journey. Only then did the temp gauge go rocketing. I appreciate the valued advice. Rob
  6. Brilliant, thanks for the detailed thoughts chaps. I've been checking out the VDO equipment on your advice, but I'm off to look at these others now Mike. I'll let you know how I get on Cheers Rob
  7. Guys (and Gals), this might sound like a dim question, but bare with me.... I want to fit oil temp and oil pressure gauges to my 94 300tdi, and it was only when I got to placing the order that I realised I don't know if I use the capillary type or the electric type! Any ideas which would be best and where the senders should be located? Also want to fit a boost gauge and I know there are both types again, which is better? Thanks peeps Rob
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