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evo828

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Everything posted by evo828

  1. Try disco3.co.uk for some guys who have the necessary tool to do it. Unfortunatelly it is not possible to do it manually.
  2. radiator is OK - no cold spots, nice temp decrease from inlet towards the outlet. But I seem to have found the culprit - I had approx 70% (or more) anti-freeze there - so took 5 liters out, put 5 liters of distilled water - and no signs of overheating anymore. the manual says that going over 60% greatly impact the efficiency of the cooling systems - and it really seems to be the case.
  3. Update - I cleaned up the rad from outside (was relatively clean anyway); removed some dirt which was trapped between air-con condenser. Today (22degC) - was not showing overheating when AC ON - however - I went for a small vineyard up-hill section - and after cca 2 km up hill the needle started to climb again - so I stopped and went down Not happy about it. Will check if the radiator gets warm/hot equally all over the place after the thermostat opens.
  4. Thank you - will check once I am back at home again
  5. Dave, Fridge - thanks for the clarification. I knew that works harder (a/c pump, alternator generating more apms to feed blower and those 2 fans in front of the radiator) - but expected the two electric fans to be able to cool it sufficiently down to the same level as before switching a/c on. Also at cruising speed (with cca 1900rpm); the airflow through the radiator should be sufficient not to allow the temps to rise to these 100degC levels. OK - I will not panic - will just keep my eye on the temp needle
  6. As the temps are going around 36degC outside I realised that when running with the A/C on the engine temp needle rises above the half and goes into the upper part of the range (not into red). This all was observed while the car is cruising at around 50-90 kph - with no extra loads (no uphill etc). After connecting to Megasquirt - I've seen that the temps are going up to around and over 100degC which is frightening me. Switching the A/C off the temps settle down to around 93-95degC (even when the car is left idling for some time). Occasionally they come down to 89-90 degC. I would expect that the electric fans that run while the A/C on will actually help the water to cool down better than if not turned on. It seems that the effect is opposite. No coolant loss, no pressurinsing of the hoses. I had a failed thermostat 8 months ago, was changed for a new one including new coolant fluid (yellow stuff - yellow was there before) - observed that after the change the engine was running approximatelly 5degC warmer than before (before 83degC -after 88degC) under the same/similar conditions. Tried another thermostat - the same story. Tried a thermostat with "lower" opening temp (I thing from RRC) - the engine run too cold (77degC). But all these was done in winter - so could not compare to the ambient temps that are outside now. 1. are the temps around 100degC already dangerous? 2. if yes - what actions do you suggest to investigate the reason 3. any idea why A/C might have such an impact on the engine running temp? thank you in advance for ideas.
  7. If you MSII/Extra has been built for the EDIS spec- then it is not possible just to run it with -ve connected from distributor. You can feed RPM signal from EDIS to MSII (assuming the RPM signal was nice from EDIS) - but leave distributor connected as standard. In this way MSII will drive everything except Ignition. In this way you can identify what could be the problem - EDIS, coils or something with MSII.
  8. Thanks Nige - so will get another set of BPR6ES from Santa I was also looking at the WUE and just had it decreased yesterday - will see what is brings.
  9. Nige, have you already found some better plugs for MS + EDIS8 combos? I am having BPR6ES for last 6 months (do they look ok ? I think yes - see the picture) - but I seem to get occasional/rare MAP spikes which might be related to misfire - caused by fouled plugs. I ran the car usually short trips; lot of slow driving and lot of starts. So would need some more robust plugs may be.
  10. Fridge, it does even if EGO off (have some warmup section of log somewhere - EGO is off below 75degC. These spikes actually happen when it is rich (I know that after throttle lift of the car goes up to 11.2AFR for 1.5 sec) - similar to the 1st log. The second is accelerating - it goes cca 13.3 afr based on some older logs with wb. So I think even the O2 reading here is showing it correctly - it is RICH at the time when the spike happens. That is why I am a bit puzzled now.
  11. no one has an idea or suggestion regarding the map spikes I've posted last week (posts above)? It usually happens during warm-up not very often - should I be worried?
  12. recently some random and very rare spikes in MAP have appeared. Do not hear anything popping through the intake - but as this is usually at some speed - it might be not audible. Any idea what can be the reason for that ? Spark plugs are only there for cca 1000km (however mostly used in the warmup enrichment as I do not drive long routes). Fueling - at the point when it happens it is rich (see 02 in the pic) - I thought that lean can cause intake popping. Any ideas?
  13. Have you checked the pdf's that Nige has posted in Technical archive? Do not know if this is sufficient - but try it. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=16466 edit: FF was faster and more precise
  14. I had my MSII built by extraefi.co.uk and I do not regret it. You can specify inputs as you need map switching, MSII Extra firmware supports also the Idle Stepper Valve if you need it. More expensive than self-build - but no soldering and no debugging of the board itself.
  15. now I finally put a new one 88degC spec (with hole up etc). What worries me is now the engine runs at 91-92 degC (based on Megasquirt). Previously it has been cca 83-84 degC (when the old one was still working). What is the correct operating temp for 3.9 V8?
  16. After installing MS and EDIS - can I completelly remove distributor from the engine and just plugin the hole with something? On some versions it was somehow connected with oil pump - I do not know how to determine If mine needs the distributor to be there or not (1998 with serpentine belt). Any hints?
  17. update: took the thermostat out - correct type with the hole on the top - however - left it in boiling water for 2 minutes - not opening at all. so need to get a new one with gasket I hope this is the whole story. seems that it let water flow only through the small hole - letting the hose to get hot enough for me to think that stat is opening - weird.
  18. thanks for the info - didn't see the water pump and thermostat myself when the "partial" overhaul was done - the car belonged to my friend who was doing it for himself. I bought the car later - when he needed to sell it. I stated that "stat checked" - because I thought when the upper pipe from thermostat to radiator was hot - that the water is flowing. I will empty the radiator today to see if some stuff will come out. Also will remove and test the stat - as I do not have a spare one - should I try to run it without to see if it helps? Or should I make a hole in it?
  19. I've read all posts regarding V8 overheating - but still have some questions: my specs: 3.9 V8 auto (1998 with serpentine); megasquirted + EDIS; cca 3000km ago - done amongst others also thermostat and composite headgaskets - also bearings; valves, cams, lifters etc when warmed up - car runned very well within 80-85 degC range all the time (even when ambient temps were 30degC and slow offroading - it never went over 90 degC. Sunday: Took the kids for a smal track we have close by - somu up/down/shaking cca 10minutes and then on the way back saw the temp gauge climbing up. Connected laptop to see the coolant temp - it was 100degC and climbing (slooowly) up. Stooped the car - the electric fans kept running (as they should). checked: - thermostat 88degC spec (was fitted new some 3000km ago) - radiator upper hose hot; lower hose less hot - heating works fine - helps to decrease the temp to approx 95degC - but not lower - coolant level on the spot as it was for months (the green anti-freeze stuff is there) - after it cooled to cca 80degC - started the car with open expansion tank to see if something is going on there while reving the engine etc. - no bubbles - no significant action happening inside there - just a very slow motion of the water is visible when giving it revs - surprised as I would expect more action/water moving inside there when reving the engine (?) - took the spark plugs out - look as they should - no "steam wash" signs at all (but it was only 20km driven in this "overheating" state). - the engine still starts very well (whether cold or hot) - no white smoke or missfire Monday: - the engine still starts very well - no white smoke or missfire - I've let it warm up while idling - warming up at ususal speed - when it went over 93 - I turned the eletric fans on (A/C switch) - this has NOT decreased the coolant temp - went for a short ride (5km) - inreases slowly to 100 level - fans still do not help - heating turned on - temp decrease by cca 5 degc and +/- stays there What could be the reason for this sudden overheating (the ambient temps are low now 10-15degC) - has the offroad shaking moved/blocked with some carp the radiator passages suddenly so the efficiency decreased so drastically? Or Water pump giving up? How to check? Any hints and tips will be appreciated. Flushing the rad is not very efficient (based on some comments here on the forum - new one is over 200pounds). The gaskets are composite and relativelly new. I cross my fingers that this is not the cracked block issue - as this would be the end of my LR experience
  20. ups - soory for the post here - my intention was to send a PM :)

  21. mad_pete - I've read your post on the overheating - which head gasekt have you bought (and where) please. I will probably need them as well - but I am not in UK so trying to get some idea where to order the right ones.

    Thanks,Marek (Slovakia)

  22. I am currently running on the latest firmware for my MSII/Extra (available here: http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=31696 ) All items (including cold starting, idle closed loop with stepper motor etc.) is working fine. So for anyone to try - i can send the msq. For some reason I am not able to upload it here
  23. I've got trigger wheel from triggerwheel shop, got it machined in the middle so it fits between the pulley and the "collar". The picture with the red circle is still without the trigger wheel machined - it was touching the part where the red circle is. After machining - no problem.
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