Garthy

Thanks again. 3 fuses later and I've finally got to the bottom of it... The problem was the earth connection on the actual side light. But when everything was apart a didn't notice this. Thanks for your help

Hi, I've cleaned up the earth connected to the wing and I've still got the same problem. In fact when the earth was totally discounted it made no difference? Are there any other earths I can check that are assocaited to the headlights? Thanks.

Thanks, will have a crack at that and see what happens.

Hi, I'm having problems with my indicator & headlights and have the following symptoms: When my side lights or headlights are off, my indicators (left & right) work fine. When my side lights are on, my indicators (left & right) work fine. When my head lights are on my left indicators work fine but my right front constantly glows but extremly dim and my right back flashes really quick. My right hand side light and head light are very dim but the left ones are fine. Also when my headlights are on and I put it onto main beam, only the left side comes on, but when I turn the main beam off, the main beam actually sticks on. I can only switch them off by turning my headlights off and then back on. So it would seam my lights are pretty mucked up. The symptoms only seem to occur when the headlights are on and it's only effecting the right hand side of the vehicle. Has anyone had a similar issue or know what the problem could be? I've spent a day trying to sort it myself but to no avail. It's booked into the garage on Thursday but I'd much prefer to sort it myself if I can. When I described the problem to the garage, they said it sounded like an earth issue, but where are the earths for headlights? Thanks in advance...

Attached are the installation instructions. Mine seems to work okay after cleaning up the earths.

Thanks Ralph. I've taken your advise and bought some SuperPro bushes which arrived this morning. I've removed my old bushes which looked like this: Now I'm a bit stuck...I've read this thread but I'm still a bit suck: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=30168 Within each end of the panhard rod eye there is a metal ring which only protudes on one side. Do I need to push this out and then replace with a new one or can I leave it in? Also is it just a case of brute force with a press to get the new bush in? The bush outside diameter is about 33 to 34mm while the panhard eye with inside diameter of the metal ring is only 29mm.

Could anyone tell me what would cause my panhard bush to keep failing? I'm on my 3rd in 10 months and this one gave in on me this evening (got the death wobble twice on the way home). Story goes... March 2009 - Panhard bush replaced by Roean Land rover services because it failed on the MOT. September 2009 - Constantly got death wobble 150 miles from home in Wiltshire, tow truck home - Mechanic said panhard bush had gone - replaced by garage. January 2009 - Death Wobble on the way home - suspect panhard bush. Could their be a route cause to the bush failing or is it more likely that the garage is just replacing it with a britpart bush, therefore failing after a few thousand miles.

Thanks, Where abouts is this switch? Is it along the choke cable along within the dash?

Hi, I have a 2.25 petrol Series 3. The choke seems to work except the choke light is always on, regardless of what position the choke is in or how warm the engine is. Is there a sensor/earth/wire I need to be checking to try & resolve this? I really don't know where to start looking. Thanks.

Could well be the panhard rod bushes. Try move your panhard rod at each end and you shouldn't get any movement. I had a similar problem...If I hit a small bump in the road regardless of the speed, the sterring wheel would shake violently. I Swapped both panhard rod bushes and it's all better now.

It might be that your CB has died. It happened to me, one day it was working fine and the next I couldn't transmit or hear regardless of how close my friend was with his CB, however the unit did switch on & off. You could eliminate this potential problem by seeing if you get a SWR reading.

Thanks, I could only find info on removing the rear bearing when I looked in the Tech Archive forum. One thing I can't tell from looking at those pictures is whether the whole shaft is being removed from the front or the back of the transfer box. I certainly don't have 4mm of movement, maybe 1mm on each side, so the vibration is something I might just have to live with.

After having a vibration coming from my front propshaft I decided to splash out and on a double carden prop. This seems to have made the vibration 10 times better however there is a small noise every so often which I would like to get rid of. While changing the flange I noticed there was a small amount of movement coming from the transfer box bearing, so I now believe that this is the cause of the vibration. How easy is it to change the front bearing in the transfer box? Does the whole unit have to come out or can it be done in situ. Any help or advise would be gratefully received. It's a 1991, 200 tdi defender 90. Thanks,

Check the price before you buy from them. I bought a new T-Max winch motor from them last week only to be first told that they need to be ordered in as they're not a stock item, then received a second phone call saying that the price was wrong by 30%, which is quite a difference. Apart from that good service.

Still just the 13.5V. hmmm

Thanks. I've moved both wires onto B+ and I'm now getting 13.5V over the battery. Reading on the forum some people say this is okay and others say it's not so good. I know the other two vehicles (VW Polo & VW Passat) in the household have 14V going across the terminals. I now need to move the warning light from W to D+, however I don't think that will change the P.D. on the battery.

You could be onto somethhing there! Right, back out I go and have a tweak. Thanks. Yes, I've done plenty of searching on here but it still doesn't make sense.

Hi, My alternator went kaput so I bought an A127/65 (STC234G), however I'm having trouble geting it to work. The alternator I removed had a nice socket on the back which I plugged the three connections into, however this new on has three post connections. I've worked out which one is D+ (Warning light) as this is the smallest post so I've connected the smallest wire to it. This leaves two other posts B+ and D+. How do I know which wire goes where, when both my other wires are brown and the same thckness. I've connected them both way round to see what happens and I can only get 12.8V across the battery terminals (13.1V if I rev the enigine) no matter which way round the wires are. I've taken the volts off the back of both posts of the alternator and one reads 12V and the other 12.8V. Should I not be getting closer to 14V. Attached is a picture of my alternator with labels. What do the black boxes with wires do? Do they need to be there?? It's a 200tdi 90 (1992) Thanks.

What uprated alternator are you going for? I've just diagnosed my alternator and feel an uprated one would be suitable because I use a split charger, however searching on the tinernet I can only find the 45 & 65 amp type.

Thanks. Am I right in assuming it would be more likely to be an unbalanced prop, knowing that I've just replaced it and also knowing that it didn't make the noise before the old one snapped. Also will there be any detrimental damage done if I leave it as it doesn't do it all that often.

Hi all, I snapped by front prop while playing at Bala a while back, so bought a GKN Hardy Spicer to replace it. I think (can't remember exactly) I stupidly pulled the two parts apart for some reason just before I installed it. Anyway, now at certain speeds I get a rumbling noise from the front, usually when the wheels are driving the engine. From doing some searching on here, I believe my prop is unbalanced. My questions are: Is this rumbling caused by an unbalanced prop? How do I balance an unbalanced prop? It's a 1992 200 tdi 90 if that helps. Thanks.

Thanks, I've emailed them through www.t-maxwinches.com and www.t-max.com.au/. Neither of which I get a reply. Don't suppose anyone knows contact details of the UK importer? Going to speak to the shop where I bought it from to see if they can help. Thanks, I've tried contacting them through www.t-max.com.au/ and www.t-maxwinches.com/, neither of which I have got a reply from. Does anyone know who the UK importer is? Going to speak to the guys I bought it from to see if they can help.

Hi, I've got a T-Max split charger in my defender. From what I understand, the unit should automatically disconnect the two batteries when I switch the engine off. This used to happen when I first installed it a few months ago. Now however the the batteries remain linked (the green LED is on) when the engine is switched off and will still be linked 24 hours later when I return to it. Does anyone know if this is right or if this will cause any problems? The only way I can unlink the batteries is by flashing my lights for about 20 seconds, until the solenoid realises one of the batteries is being drained. Also on the T-Max split charger there is another LED, labelled "Manual Overide". When the "Link" button is pressed, this LED turns red, which I understand, however I don't know what state the unit is in when this LED is Orange. Can any enlighten me?