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martinspragg

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Everything posted by martinspragg

  1. Drum brakes can be a complete b**t**d to get off, tapping and revolving works well plus using that threaded hole but be warned if you thread the hole too much the drum gets cocked and will not come off. Don't be afraid to hit the drum a few times to shock it but avoid pounding it too hard with a steel hammer for the all of the above reasons. Don't give up it will come off and land in your lap...eventually
  2. Good point but replacing the input gears is alot more work than I think Mudmuncher is wanting to get into, although I suppose it would make you feel more secure about going through the heart ache of changing the transfer case and finding the new one is a piece of s**t. Reb78 I agree with you but I would do it because for the price of a few new oil seals you should be oil drip free for many years.
  3. How about the front and rear output oil seals, not a box off job but much easier on a bench than lying under a truck!!!
  4. My Defender came with a military transmission which has a lower 1st gear than the standard issue trans. I subsequently had to replace the trans and used a civilian box for the rebuild and in all honesty the military box 1st was way too low, almost useless in most driving situations and the new civilian trans is much easier to pull away with from a standing start. Having said that I am sure if you need to pull a tank out of a ditch then that low 1st gear is useful but you have to weight up the pros and cons of such a set up for us civvies.
  5. I have had good success with hammering a slightly smaller socket onto the rusty nut, so if it is a 13mm I usually look for a 12mm and drive it onto the nut then use a bar to loosen the offending article. This is usually after a liberal application of penetrating oil and maybe heating the nut up with a torch (if possible). The disadvantage is that sometimes this process destroys the socket but if it gets it off it is usually worth the few $$
  6. Yes they are standard military door tops. I have removed the glass OK but it looks like I have been sold the incorrect items. I have U shaped strips of metal covered with felt like material, I was told that they fit all LR including Series and Military. Things that make you go hmmmmmm
  7. I am trying to insert some new window channels into the front doors of my defender. It has sliding windows and they rattle all the time, the felt is metal cored U shaped covered with soft felt like material. I took the windows out and looked around and couldn't work out how to get the felt into the window frame. I am assuming it goes at the top side of the window but there seems to be no way of getting it into the groove. Help!
  8. I think the sleeve insert is there because the casing has been remanufactured. If the hole has become oval the remanufacturers will over drill a larger hole and fit a sleeve into to it and then reuse the casing. But if it the seal in a steel sleeve is better oand more long lasting than the original aluminium housed one it would be definitely worth looking into doing this as an improvement modfication
  9. A tip for the intermediate shaft that I came across via a magazine photo coverage of Ashcrofts changing the ratio of the transfer case: they replace the o ring on the shaft then run silicone sealant on the shaft and the hole in the casing. It's a bit belt and braces but when I get down to the rebuild I will follow their advice. The other tip from the same source was to use a piece of narrow cord to suspend the intermediate gears in the case whilst you are trying to thread the shaft through them, this definitely makes what could be a fiddly job into a breeze. If you have a decent set of tools and pullers the strip down is simple and having done a couple of dry runs at assembling mine I think the rebuild is not too bad either.
  10. I agree with you Nick but I am putting primary gears and bearings and the shim that is in the box is too thick so that when you torque it down the bearings are locked solid. So a I need the next size down or so.
  11. The nut is the large one on the rear end of the centre diff that is staked. It's called the bearing retaining nut, very creatively and the manual says use LRT 41 007 special tool to remove it. I too sarted th rebuild project last year and found out I needed some shims to et the tolerances correct on the input shaft. They are coming over at th e end of the month but I am still stuck on that nut, I'v tried drifting it and a pipe wrench I think I will just have to fabricate something that will get it off. Martin
  12. Ok great, so how did you reomove the staked nut on the diff. The manual says you need the LR special tool. I figured a large adjustable would work but I haven't found one large enough. I may build my own special tool but if there is a secret let me know.
  13. I run on Michelin 4x4 O/R, look just like the military style tyres you see on army landrovers. They are skinny but seem to work great in sand, I regularly carry 700lb of tanks and gear onto the beach and have never bogged. They are very tall giving excellent ground clearance and I think the bigger circumference adds to the fact you can get more torque into the dirt or sand. Plus for rough unpaved roads skinny tyres are better than fat ones their slim footprint avoids more pot holes than the fat ones, I haven driven many trucks with fat "all terrain" tyres over our roads and those tyres throw you and the truck around. Just my opinion but it seems to work around here.
  14. I can't quite see what the problem is but it sounds like you may have to split the box. The box has a primary shaft and a layshaft. So I guess that something has happened to the selector mechanism which sits on the mainshaft. So long as you are not doing complete rebuild looking inside the box is not too bad a job.
  15. I just had to replace my exhaust, I had the two mufflers taken off (ruuuusty!) and they were replaced by a single centre muffler. The result was quiet amazing, the 2.5 n/a is not exactly a power house but I now have much more mid-range pull and when climbing hills I am not constantly having to find 3rd. BTW my exhaust exits at the back, I also could see no reason to do a side exit unless you want exreme articulation.
  16. Have you tried an oil change? It may improve the gear change. Alternatively make sure the lever is adjusted correctly there is something in the tech archive or Defender forum as to how to adjust the bias springs on the lever, it makes a world of difference.
  17. Yeah I will look for a coolant pressure tester to borrow or rent that should sort it out. For now I went through all the hoses and clamps all were fine but I found out the three bolts that hold the thermostat housing on to be a little loose and there could be a little dampnes around that seal (can't realy tell for all the oil ) . I have topped her up and we're off on a trip tomorrow, I'll check the level after getting back.
  18. I agree with Scube, weld a washer over the hole. Around here the dirt roads can have miles of terrible washboard which beats the zxyp out of the shocks and eventually leads to the same elongated hole, the local fix is to weld a decent thickness washer of the correct size. It seems to work great and is pretty cheap and simple to do.
  19. Been thru the hoses several times and no dap patches on the radiatore but come to think of it I have never looked throughly over the expansion tank. My other thought is that the cap to the expansion tank is won out and it is letting out the coolant slowly as she gets hot.
  20. My 2.5 N/A uses coolant. There are no obvious leaks so I suspected the head gasket but there is no white smoke at any time with this vehicle. She starts great, runs great but uses coolant. I don't want to replace the head gasket unless I have to so is there something I am missing....help
  21. Changing the front diff is harder than the rear but not that bad. I would look through the tech archive and get stuck in. If the diff goes you are left with an undriveable vehicle, I know because it happened to me. You will have to remove the hubs to get the diff out and put the new one back in but it only took me about a day in total to do this. You may want to inspect the bearings on the ball joints whilst you are doing this job because now would be the time to do a complete front end rebuild rather than having to go back in a few months time.
  22. Thanks Ralph. By the look of the bushes I thought I would need two but I didn't have that exploded diagram you just posted. I've downloaded and saved the file for future control problems.
  23. My clutch pedal needs new bushes, anyone know if I need one or two bushes (one each side the pivot). I don't want to dismantle the assembly to find out and the pic in my manual is not very clear.
  24. Uj's on their way out "chirp" and the noise usually occurs when accelerating or deccelerating because of the changing toeque being applied to the shaft and joints. If the sound is when you are already at high rpm I would guess it could be something other than a UJ. I'd run through what Fridgefreezer says to do. Diffs aren't that hard to replace, rear ones look like a piece if cake my front one needed doing and it wasn't too bad even thought I had to deal with all the swivels, cvs etc.
  25. I'm thinking of doing the same refit but I have read that you need to have a 3 groove pulley on the crank. It's something to do with making sure the pump is turning at the correct rpm, not too fast as I recall. Do a search on the forum and you will find out the facts.
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