ertin

Hello, I have recently removed the tailgate door trim on my 5 door TD4 to check the lock motor. There are four screws under the door pocket on the rhs of door. Although I removed mine with the door open, it should be possible to remove the screws with the door closed. There are then 8 push on clips to release. Three each side and two at the base. The trim can the be pulled back from the bottom to free the clips and lifted off a further 5 clips along the top. The lock motor is behind the membrane. Pull the rod attached to the lock motor and door latch should release the lock. Hope this helps. Eric.

I had a similar problem with my drivers door lock on my 02 TD4 a few months back. I removed the door panel and cut the plastic membrane to gain access, checked for damaged wiring in the harness between the door and body, and for stiffness in the linkage (as suggested on some forums), but found no problems. I removed the door lock assy with a view to repairing it but it is not possible to dismantle the lock without ruining it. I bought a new assy. from the dealers and fitted it which cured the problem. It seems the locks fail, especially the drivers door. As for having the passenger one fail as well, I can only suggest you repeat the procedure being prepared to replace that one as well! If you are going down the DIY route, and you have not removed a door lock before (like me!) make sure you obtain a Haynes Manual for the procedure. Hope this helps. Eric.

If the crown wheel is chewed, surely you will have lost the drive to the front wheels?(If the crown wheel is faulty, it is only the rear drive keeping it going!!!). Do you mean the bevel gears on the output shaft which takes the drive to the rear wheels? Just a thought. Eric.

Hello, I have a 2002 TD4 ES (yes TD4 is the BMW engine) and I am very please with it. I am regularly looking at these threads to see what problems I may face. Mine has been very reliable with none of the engine gremlins mentioned. It has done 65,000 miles. I would try and buy the latest model you can, as Land Rovers were constantly improving Freelanders. 2002 would be the earliest I would go. If you can, try for a face lift model (from 2003), although these can be more expensive. Do not be tempted to pay a high price for an early low mileage model as low annual mileage can lead to problems( again reading about intermittent engine problems on low mileage examples). Service history is essential. A high mileage example well looked after is a much better bet than a little used one. If you buy one from a dealer make sure you get a GOOD warranty. If you are buying privately, try and take someone with you who knows Freelanders, as there are some potentially expensive transmission and engine problems to trap the unwary. I get mine serviced by a local garage. I keep an eye on what needs doing though (the Haynes Manual is a goon start). I pay about £150 - £200 per annum. (my annual mileage is 12,000). I have just renewed my tax disc for a year and it was £210. Best of luck with your search. Eric.

Will this do? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Haynes-Workshop-Ma...rd_i=1859609295 Regards, Eric

Had a similar problem. It was caused by a dirty earth connection on the connector on the back of the lamp assembly. The plug on the PCB on the back of the unit has three connections, one earth (LH one with black wire) and two live - one permanent for the switches and one controlled by the CCU. I found a sooty deposit on the earth track of the PCB. Cleaning this restored normal working. Hope this helps, Eric.

Hello Pete. The chains in a TD4 should not need changing. They should last until the engine requires a major overhaul. Changing the engine oil and filter at the specified intervals will maximise their life. Hope this reassures you. Eric.

Eric... Colchester, Essex.