Llanigraham
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Posts posted by Llanigraham
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Hill descent mode. When should this be used and why? I flipped the large button on the gear lever down the other and moved off fine, however when i went to shift into 2nd there was a horrible grinding noise and the car tried to stop itself dead. I plunged the clutch in, flipped the large stich backup and drove off fine. Is this normal or is it all knackered?
HDC works on 1st and reverse only, and should be used to keep the speed down when going down steep hills. I always turn it on before I start the descent. It is cancelled as soon as you touch the brake or accelerator pedal. Basically it works by using the anti-lock braking and traction control to brake different wheels. The noise you had could have been the system turning itself on, because as soon as you took your foot of the accelerator it would turn itself on in the short time you were still in 1st. Hope that makes sense.
The other thing is when I turn to full lock it feels as though the car simply cant roll. Like it's trying to stop all the time. There is no rubbing on the tyres so I assume they're not coming into contact with the arches. I was wondering is this simply a symptom of a car with VCU and IRD? or is something wrong? Also when turning on full lock every now and again there is a loud clunk from underneath. I have no idea how else to describe it other than it sounds like something being shoved back into place ?2 things here.
Yes the feeling of trying to stop when on full lock is fairly normal, and is the VCU fighting itself. As they say, "a characturist of the vehicle".
Noises from the back, especially a "clunk". This is normally the support bearing on the nose of the diff wearing out. It will get worse and worse, so needs changing, which is not that difficult.
There is a basic test for the VCU:
Car in first gear, handbrake off.
Jack up one rear wheel and with a socket and breaker bar on the central hub nut, try to turn it. It should smoothly but VERY slowly with a fair amount of effort. If it doesn't move at all be prepared to buy a new VCU.
If it has failed it can quickly damage the IRD, but you can remove the VCU and both prop shafts and drive in front wheel drive fairly safely.
Come and join us in the Freelander Club forum. You will get lots of advice there.
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The hissing sound would suggest you have a leak somewhere.
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'fraid not, all seats are fixed height.
Cannot be modified due to the safety restraints and things
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Neither, buy a diesel.
1.8 potential head gasket problems.
2.5 V6 VERY THIRSTY!!
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Simple answer, you can't. There were 2 part numbers for the IRD's but I don't know when they were changed.
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VCU cannot be serviced, it is a sealed unit.
The simplist check is to jack up one rear wheel with the hand brake off, and with car in first gear, put a socket on the big nut in the centre of that wheel with a 3' breaker bar lean on it. If the VCU is ok it will move VERY slowly and smoothly. If it is ducked it will not move at all!!
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If the VCU has gone, then it is possible that it has also broken the IRD.
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No, I mean the bushes that support the rear diff in the rear axle.
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If you have removed the prop shaft from the gearbox/IRD to the rear axle and the noise has stopped I suspect that the diff mountings need checking (as already stated).
The one at the front of the diff is the one that usually goes and is fairly easay to replace and not expensive. About £30 in UK for parts.
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Check the condition of the rear diff bushes, especially the one on the nose/front of the diff.
Probably needs replacing.
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My friend's Freelander has got shot viscous mounting bearings. Spares not available 'till mid week. "No problem, we'll take prop off 'till spares come it's easy on a Land Rover" says me.
75% easy of the way in and we're stuck at the gear box end. Does the prop pull out of the rubber gaiter 'Ford style' with a circlip retaining it? Or do we have to unbolt the cylinder it pushes into? Or something else?
Please help a Defender owner out of his comfort zone
Neither!
Undo the star bolts on the faces of each end of the WHOLE prop, IRD and Rear Diff, and drop the VCU as well. Take the whole lot of as one unit.
You can then remove the VCU on the bench.
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Do you mean the IRD or the VCU?
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Welcome to the WONDERFUL world of Freelandering.
Ignore all the anti views you will get from the people who know nothing about them, but still think they are experts.
Come and join us in the Freelander Club.
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Yes, will fit.
Tow bar for all Series 1 F/L's are the same.
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First of hello all!
I have just bought a 1998 freelander 1.8exi with 81000 miles on the clock.I have acouple of questions for you that i hope you can help me with,First one is that i have noticed once or twice when pulling away from a stationary position i have heard a loud bang/thump coming from what i think is the rear of the car.Can anyone give me some pointers as to what this could be?
Rear diff mountings worn, most probably the front one. Easy to replace.
Also it has a leather interior and the 2 front seats are slightly worn.Is there anything i can use on the leather to hide the age cracks in it and put it back to looking a bit better?A good quality leather feed/saddle soap, or even try your local furniture store as they normally sell leather products for settees, etc.
Also the plastic trim is looking a bit dull and has lightened over the years.What would be the best product to use to put it back to its origional black colour?All info would be appreciated.
Thanks
DON'T use engine oil on plastic! it might look nice but it doesn't do it any good. If really dirty try some PVC garden furniture cleaner, and then any of the good quality bumper products. Have even heard of people using smooth peanut butter (??)
Lastly, join the Freelander Club (www.freelanderclub.co.uk) and get out and get it muddy!!
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Really.........???
Not a reported problem at the FL Club. In fact my VC doesn't have a damper fitted.
And once a VC has failed, it has failed. Replace only.
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Llanidloes, Powys.........Graham
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If they are on a soft nudge bar, make sure they are earthed seperately, as I doubt the 'bar will provide an earth path.
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Double post!!
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AT tyres are a worthwhile change, but nothing too agressive are needed.
A better sump guard, but to be honest if you drive carefully it isn't neccesary.
Too many ruts will knock the rear silencer about and even off. It is'nt really required so can be dumped, but if left on it isn't difficult to refix it back.
Seat covers seem about right price, but check the quality and fit.
And lastly.........THE FREELANDER CLUB
http://www.freelanderclub.co.uk/
They have an active forum and a growing number of active local groups.
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How old is it?
How many miles has it done?
Sqeak could just be a "dry" mounting.
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I understand there were some electric folding ones, but most people just buy the later hand folding ones and fit those.
Someone said that the folding ones are now cheaper and easier to get than the non folding ones!
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Sound like the wish bone ball joint
Agree with Jules.
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Fairly common mod amongst the Freelander Club fraternity.
Only thing that needs to be done is to open out one of the mounting holes slightly.
You can even go the whole hog and fit the electric ones too!
Clunk and grind
in Freelander Forum
Posted
Double posting?