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ian_s last won the day on January 13 2015

ian_s had the most liked content!

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About ian_s

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    Old Hand

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    Medway Towns, Kent

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  1. ian_s

    bringing a neglected series back to life

    It's got me worried now, I replaced the relay about 20 years ago with an aftermarket one, it was an absolute b****rd to get out.
  2. ian_s

    bringing a neglected series back to life

    by the sounds of it, your steering has had a massive hit at some point in the past, which has weakened the relay shaft, which has then over time got worse until its sheared.
  3. ian_s

    bringing a neglected series back to life

    Thanks, I knew I'd seen a thread on it before but i couldn't find it!
  4. ian_s

    bringing a neglected series back to life

    Thanks, I've had to do that a few times over the years, it does make a massive difference. Tappets might be a good idea. I've got the front end apart at the moment to do the cam belt, what is the best way to make sure the timing doesn't shift out of place? is it just a case of marking all 3 gears where they are, or should i line them up to a certain point? it's been so long since I've done a cam belt I cant remember how to do it!
  5. ian_s

    bringing a neglected series back to life

    so current list: cam belt engine oil coolant gearbox oil transfer box oil brake fluid clutch fluid axle oils, front and rear swivel oils / one shot wiper blades steering box/relay oils steering ball joints fan belt tires damper bushes check chassis again
  6. ian_s

    bringing a neglected series back to life

    fan belt added to the list haven't got the oil bath filter anymore, so thats not needed, though it will get a wash.
  7. ian_s

    bringing a neglected series back to life

    Thanks guys. I originally took it off the road when it failed the MOT on some welding, which I actually fixed at the time, but then my Son arrived and as it's hardly baby safe I never got round to getting it back on the road. Since then more of the chassis has rusted in the front and rear cross members, which I am currently fixing. The Front cross member I have already done, but for the rear I think I might buy a complete rear 1/4 chassis. the bulkhead is solid. The tires are shot, I forgot to include them in the list. At the moment as I've got the front end apart most of the water hoses are disconnected and I can inspect them, i didnt see any sign of any deterioration. Inspecting inside the drums was almost the first thing i did, as the driveway it was on was pretty steep and i didnt want to try moving it without knowing it would stop! wiper blades are a good idea! i had completely forgotten about those. steering relay is good call. the steering is much heavier than i remember. I'll also look at ball joints.
  8. I'm finally getting round to resurrecting my 1980 series 3 that I bought back in 1995. Over the years its gone through a lot of changes, I think the (short) list is: rebuilt 2.25 diesel replacement factory recon 2.25 diesel after a few years upgraded front brakes to 11 inch parabolic springs pro comp dampers defender 200tdi fitted, which died discovery 200tdi replaced the defender version, but kept the defender manifolds/turbo so now I'm looking at getting it back on the road.I got as far as making sure the brakes are free, which they are ( 15 year old britpart cylinders still working! ) engine starts better than any other car i've ever had, even with 6 year old diesel in the lines. what should I be looking to refresh/renew/replace? current list is: cam belt engine oil coolant gearbox oil transfer box oil brake fluid clutch fluid axle oils, front and rear swivel oils / one shot lucas wiring harness smoke blinker fluid Can anyone tell me what else i need to look at?
  9. ian_s

    front cross member replacement

    front dumb irons and the main chassis rails are all good still, this is really just a band aid until I can afford a full galvanised chassis which should happen in the next few years. at the moment i'm actually having to put patches on patches, which is never good.
  10. ian_s

    front cross member replacement

    It's my first car that i've owned for 24 years, resale is never gonna happen!! 200tdi fitted, so I've already lost the starting handle the only other downsides i can see are that it might not be as strong, but i'm not 100% on that, and secondly I can currently turn the engine over by hand with lots of extension bars through the front bumper, something i rarely do
  11. so recently I dragged my Series out of where it was stored, and I plan to put it back on the road. first thing on the list is the front cross member which is in a pretty bad way. I've cut the worst out today, the metal either side of the dip is still 2mm thick so is good. the big questions: what's the reason for the lowered section? is it just to allow for the PTO hole? any reason I can't just replace it with straight box section?
  12. ian_s

    Two or Four post lift

    for a pro working day in, day out, i guess the decision between 2 and 4 post needs to rest on what their business needs. or if they have the space, both. For an amateur like myself, its a 4 post or no post at all, i just don't have the experience balancing and placing the arms to put myself (or anyone else) under a 2 post. I've used 4 posts a fair bit, and with a bit of ingenuity I've dropped both axles off my series 3, dropped a gearbox out of my dads old RRC, and dropped the rear subframe out of a jaguar xj6 s3. all would have been easier on a 2 post, but a lot safer on a 4 post.
  13. I guess my technique of just holding my breath is probably not right?
  14. Another Ben Fogle book here, plus a repaired starter motor for my series3 it may yet live!
  15. on my series with a 200tdi, the axle doesnt get anywhere near the pulley. that could be because i raised the mount on the chassis when i fitted the engine. I originally had a defender tdi in, which has the lower injection pump, so i changed the drivers side engine mount. when i did it i measured between the axle and bump stops, and made sure the engine was high enough to clear.

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