Briarston

Is it really necessary for the pipework to be 1/4"? There is an adapter at the master cylinder end which must cause some restriction, and similar adapters presumably are needed to connect to the servo. The volume of fluid going in at one end is the same as comes out at the other whatever size pipe is in between surely?

Hi all A friend has a 200Tdi Defender, and the end of the camshaft has sheared off, leaving the end complete with key and bolt firmly fixed in the wheel. Anyone known this happen like this? Obviously, a replacement camshaft is needed. He has heard somewhere that the cam followers can be raised clear of the camshaft so it can be withdrawn without removing the cylinder head. Can this be done, and if so, how? He would be grateful for any advice.

Hi all, Looking for a speedo cable for a non standard job. Does anyone know the length of a Defender one piece cable, or have one off the vehicle they could measure please? Thanks

Hello I've recently sprayed my 2a in "Deep Bronze Green". My colour book lists it as:- "224 BS3.224, 1964 onwards". Any help?.

Hello I recently sprayed my 2a. I used "Deep Bronze Green", which my colours book shows as:- " 224 BS3.224, 1964 onwards". Any use to you?

I've got a SIP 180amp set. Had it about 30yrs. Single and 3ph. switchable, but always run on 1ph. No fan cooling, but have never had it trip on thermal cutout. I find that 70-90 amps and 2.5mm rods work well enough on 1/4" plate/angle iron with suitable preparation. Don't wish to criticize your efforts, just my experience of stick welding.

Isn't it another of those "laws of physics", eg. Whichever side of a bonfire you stand, the wind will always blow the smoke in your face?

Thankyou I will give it a try.

Anyone know where I can get gaskets for a sip airmate? I've tried googling but the sites I've found aren't too helpful.

Another way that has been mentioned from time to time is to use a suitable size (thread) tap, with a ball bearing or other spacer in the bottom of the spigot bush hole. When the tap meets the spacer keep turning and the now threaded bush is wound up the tap. However, the grease method has always worked for me.

Hi. Thanks again! Better idea of what to look for now. I'm not a stranger to the infernal combustion engine but readily admit to being new to the finer points of LR's mix and match. BTW, the flywheel housing does have ribs, so series 3 retro fit as suspected. Regards Jim

Hello, thanks both for the input. Phil, this is something to investigate. I don't know what w/p pulley is fitted at the moment. The dynamo was only loosely fitted, without a belt. The PO must have had a problem in this area also. Are you saying that there is a deeper dished version of the water pump pulley which will bring the belt groove closer to the water pump?

Hi all. Can anyone advise? My 2A project, 12volt, 2.1/4 petrol has a three groove crank pulley as fitted to the 24v versions. From what I can find, the smaller inner pulley should drive the water pump/fan, but these are not in line. The water pump pulley is actually in line with the centre larger pulley, which would normally be used with one of the twin belts driving the 24v. alternator. There seems to be a miss match of parts somewhere, but I am not sure where. As far as I can find the water pump seems to be correct. I don't need the three groove crank pulley and was wondering if replacing it with the "ordinary" single pulley would put things into line. I think the engine could be a later version, as it has a timing pointer on the front cover. I can't see a plate on the flywheel housing which the hand book refers to. If anyone can offer advice/solution to this problem I would be very grateful!

Mine was like that, really glued together. I was removing engine, took lots of waggling, prising and cursing before it came free.

I had a run in with scammers recently. My internet connection had become so slow it was practically unusable. I had been in contact with the ISP. engineers several times, the last time was the previous evening, so when I got a phone call from "the engineer" the following lunch time I was not unduly suspicious. I asked why they had not asked for any letters from my password and was told that they knew all about my problem. I asked if they were my ISP engineers and was assured that they worked for them and others. As requested, I switched on my computer and entered numbers as requested - still not suspicious as I had been asked to do this previously. Then I realised that the computer was being scanned and demanded to know why, and was told it was "to remove viruses picked up from the internet" which they would remove. Now, I had only had this computer a few days, and it had very little internet use due to the original problem. By now, lots of unwanted icons were appearing on the desk top, and when I again protested I was passed over to "the manager" who told me they were cleaning up my computer and it was going to cost me £199(inc.vat) for their service. Oh no it's *!!% not, said I, unplugging the router and shutting down, before throwing the phone across the room Five minutes later they phoned back, demanding payment within 24hrs. as I had requested their services (had not!) After some more choice words to him, I slammed the phone down again. As it happens, they had previously given me their phone no. This I passed on to my ISP who said they would have the line blocked( don't know If they could, but have not been bothered since) It seems that these people were just "fishing" and their call fitted in with my circumstances. Incidentally, the problem was cured by Openreach. Something to do with the local exchange. Also, while two finger typing this, I have to keep stopping to get rid of "Pando Media Booster" installer which keeps popping up. Anyone know anything about this?

Hi all. Two questions which I'm sure you series owners can answer. 1. Other than the window catches (and the hole for the S3 catch) are series 2/2A /3 door tops the same dimensionally, and interchangeable? 2. Are the van side panels interchangeable between 88" series and 90" Defender(type)? I know the roof is different at the front. The reason I ask is that I have a good roof but no sides, and today I have seen what looks like a complete unit sitting on a pile. I would , however, prefer a truck cab if anyone near Stafford has one spare! A reasonable amount of repair work not objected to. Regards, and thanks in advance for any answers.

Which is why I swapped my drum braked "G valve" for the Disco one (Disco axle fitted, would lock up the rears quite easily, now doesn't)

If you have the slave cylinder off, it may be worth bleeding it with the piston clamped right back into the cylinder, thus minimising the air space, as otherwise, the piston will move out to contact the push rod - this is how the clutch "self adjusts".

It's to stop the rear brakes locking up under heavy braking. I fitted one from an early Disco, having fitted a disc braked rear axle. This Disco one would rattle when given a good shake. I took it apart to clean it out, lots of muck and rust. It had a very light spring in it. Don't know if the original one did.

Hi May be able to help with the connections. I should have a drawing ( it's at work) so will try and dig it out tomorrow, and get back to you if no one else beats me to it.

Hello Norman Thankyou. I had found this site, but wouldn't load when I tried. Got it now. Looks a bit different from what I already have. Regards Jim

Yes, a pressure limiting/restricting device. Looked similar to my old "G-valve". Was mounted on the o/s inner wing of the Disco. I took the end cap off to clean it out before fitting and found it had a light spring against the ball. Don't know about the original, as I left it in place just in case the replacement one wasn't satisfactory.

Thanks! I'll try not to pester you too much!

Further to what has already been said, when I converted to rear disc brakes I found that with the original "G valve" in line, the rear wheels would lock up quite easily. I fitted one from an early Disco (without ABS) which stopped this. The MOT. tester said the brakes were as good as any he had ever tested, and better than most. My own experience, and not necessarily a recommendation!

My 1988 "90" has what is often called a "G-valve", located on the chassis rail, as stated above. It's intended to shut off pressure under hard braking to prevent the back wheels locking. I think it's the shuttle valve with the warning light switch that Landowner refers to. If a front or rear pipe fails the shuttle moves across, closing that port, and operates the switch/warning light.