moore101

I know of the vehicle and have helped a friend cut up an old scrap matador chassis using the rangie to move the various chunks/axles etc. Can't comment on how it drives but it's a fairly solid well built truck, chassis being massively strengthened at the back to take the HIAB and legs. Biggest problem with it is the HIAB pump is battery powered and the 6 batteries are all old and knackered. Could do with being driven off a pto from the LT95.

I know of the vehicle and have helped a friend cut up an old scrap matador chassis using the rangie to move the various chunks/axles etc. Can't comment on how it drives but it's a fairly solid well built truck, chassis being massively strengthened at the back to take the HIAB and legs. Biggest problem with it is the HIAB pump is battery powered and the 6 batteries are all old and knackered. Could do with being driven off a pto from the LT95.

Try 101 ball joints, they're bigger.And bearmach sell the nuts for a couple of pound.

Malcolm Whitbread used a LHD defender style steering box so the input pointed forwards and then a 90 degree bevel box at bottom of column. The 101 relay is larger than a series unit so should survive having power steering through it and adds an element of further damping so should help improve steering box life when offroading. Cutting and vee-ing the chassis isn't a terribly messy way of doing it, rebuilding the top of the rail over the v would add strength back in and might make it a tad neater.

Managed to break input shaft before but not that spectacularly!

QT ones here They do the replacement bushes, any idea if they are standard series spring eye bushes? Thinking of making some up as my budgetwibt stretch to £120 just for engine and gearbox mounts. Also does anyone have any comments about whether they increase vibration or not?

Ring insurance companies direct, price comparison sites are rubbish! They can't deal with any modification and any crash history seems to put the quote up by a lot more than insurance actually increased by.

Nige what MOD site is this? Might have to arrange myself a visit there through work!

What sort of dimensions are you after? It's not very clear from your original post..

A trick with triallers is to put 2 push to make momentary switches on the steering wheel to start the vehicle in the event of a stalled engine. This is relatively safe, especially if it had a seperate switch to send power to them, as you have to deliberately press both wanting to start it.

I prefer the old layout!

Cheers for the responses. In the end I bent out the chassis mounts slightly (almost cried doing that to a new chassis!) pulled it all together with ratchet straps, the bushes got wedged halfway through doing this (they were deforming into the bolt holes in the chassis), so I gave up, pulled the bushes out of the springs, threw them into the depths of the garage and just put it all together without any bushes. When it comes to putting it all back together once the chassis has been galvanised I will be pressing original fitment bushes into the front of the springs and just using polybushes for the backs of the springs where they're easy to fit as the shackle splits so theres infinite space for it to go in. Thought the bushes were too good to be true with how easy they are to fit into the end of the springs initially. At least it looks something like a vehicle again now though! Even managed to start cutting out plates for engine mounts

cheers for the replies! Landy V8, they're straight as a straight thing, the chassis only got delivered today. Meccano, just had exactly the same idea, gently jack the chassis mounting apart, doing the bolt up will pull it back into shape. But it's a new chassis so i dont really want to do that and I definitely don't want to be doing that once i've had it galvanised..

AAAAARGH, I buy britpart because i'm an apprentice doing a rebuild on a very tight budget and I end up with the rubbish parts! Just tried to fit my springs to my brand new chassis and they wont fit. The ones i'm trying to fit are the front of back springs so I guess the front of front will be just as hard. It seems the flange of the bushes is too wide and I can't think of any way to squeeze it all up and slide it in. I bought 'polybushes' because I thought they were easier to fit, apparently not! Pics attached, not brilliant as I was holding it all with one hand while taking the picture with the other but I think you can understand my problem. Also, red oxide and chassis black is a rubbish combination of paint that chips of way too easily! Trusty old hammerite straight to rust for the rest of the rebuild!

Would it not be better just changing the diff ratio or putting rangerover high ratio gears in for high range. I very much doubt we'd miss first gear being stupidly low. If towing a really heavy load I guess we might miss it but there's always low range if needed.. Would be nice to see it done though I suppose