Steve 90

Before you say it, Yes Ive spent a long time searching the forum and reading through various threads. But all I can find is Speculation and "I thinks" Or "I was told" So Im after some info from someone who has actually done it or been pretty closely involved in both types of engine. Basically I have a 4.2 V8 from a Range rover LSE with a V belt front end which I want to rebuild, fit some slightly spicy heads and a mid range/tourque cam shaft (stump puller has been recommended). I then want to swap it for the 3.9 that is in my truck, in the process swapping over the Serpentine/multi V front end from the 3.9 too the previously single V belt'd 4.2. As far as I can see the cranks are identical in length. I measured from the front of the block to the front of the crank and they were the same (Admittedly within a mm as I did it with a steel rule and square) so as far as I can see its only the key way that will need extending inwards (which I can do when the cranks out) to drive the oil pump. I also did notice that the cylinder heads on the serp motor had some extra boss's for bolting the PAS pump bracket too but I hope to be able to swap them when I get the spiced heads. Can anyone confirm that otherwise its a straight swap? Anyone know of any other issues I will find? Cheers. Steve.

Now the V8 is mega squirted and running I have no excuse not to get in water (Well other than the fact I hate getting the truck in water) when the time comes that its necessary. The ignition side of things should be OK. What about the rest. Its a 1997 3.9 serp' motor out of a discovery. Areas with potential issues as far as I can see are- 1 Dip stick, I don't think ive seen such a poor, antiquated excuse for a dip stick in quite some time. Im well aware of replacing it with a sealed up bung or a plastic bag but I would prefer to just have a decent dipstick. So does anyone know of any later versions that are better and a reasonably easy fit? 2 The breather in the back of the N/S rocker cover. What have people done with these? Tempted to cut it off, drill and tap where it used to be and fit a tube which runs with the other breathers. Any better idea's? Anything else that may cause issue that I havn't thought about? Cheers. Steve.

Any chance you could put the teams Handicap ratings up also?

Mmm, I like the Nissan a LOT!

Just a quick note, Ive recently fitted one of the kits that Rob/llama4x4 put together. Ive got to say I'm very happy with it. I am going to mod it with a clamp on piece that attaches to a disco type Pitman arm (the same as Mark Dyer has done if any of you have seen it) as I don't like the defender swan neck setup. On the whole the kit works very well and gives a decent level of assist without loosing steering speed in the way my previous set up did. So its a recommendation for Rob and Llama 4x4 for a good bit of kit. Cheers. Steve.

Even driving like a complete t*&t up the mountain road or on the long climbs in the wood with plenty of loud pedal (On 37" Boggers) its not been above 80 deg C since I changed the pipe work. Seems to sit happily at 70 most the time with normal driving and just the odd burst of throttle.

Thats strange, I had the exact same setup but with a V8. On a reasonably short run from cold it was getting dangerously close to the Max temp before damage. Being a brand new box from Ashcroft I was keen to be sure it didn't do that so stopped. You would have towed a caravan behind a Rangerover up the same strech of road quite happily on the original Bogbrush cooler which is far less efficient than the Derale one so I assumed it couldn't be the cooler. What size INTERNAL bore where the original pipes on your Box Mike?

Mmmm, I think I'd struggle to do 6 hours on a 60ltr tank!

I'd be happier with that as my worst fuel consumption, At the moment I'd be lucky to get that on the road and the truck weighs 1960kg's Good question what are "exhaust gas correction settings ????? I assume its something to do with the O2 sensor feedback and how much effect it has on the fueling???????? I'll have a look after work today and see if I can find anything that makes sense! Any pointers where I'll find them, what they should look like and what they are?

Yep, Changed them and its fine now.

What size pipes are you people with Auto box's running to your trans cooler??? Also Which box and engine are you running? whats it mainly used for? and do you get any cooling issues? Plus any other relevant info. Cheers. Steve.

LOL, But seriously, Mines worse than bad at the minute. Most people that ive spoken too have reasonable range so im sure its very possible. Unfortunately they are running other systems not MS so I cant pinch their MSQ's/MAP's to try. Mine actually runs pretty well, There's still room for improvement im sure but on the whole its pretty good power wise and pretty responsive (Way more responsive than any TD5 ive driven). My issue is I want to do some foreign long distance events and at the moment I'd never carry enough fuel. There are people that have done them on 100L of fuel in bigger V8's than mine. At the pressent rate I think I would have to carry about 250+L for the same event!!!!! Roughly how much do you use in a day Chris?

Anybody here running a 3.9 auto in a 90 with MS????? If so what sort of fuel consumption are you getting with road/high box driving and off road/low box driving? Also any chance I could have a try of whatever MSQ/MAP you are running? Cheers. Steve.

Do you hope that if you say it enough maybe one day it will come true!

Thats my trouble, I cant just pop in anywhere, I live out in the sticks and the postage would probably be less than the fuel to get to the nearest place and definitely cheaper than half a day off work to do it. Cheers for ya help guys. I'd already looked on Eblag but the couple I found seemed quite pricey for that size plate but it would appear thats the going rate unless you can find somewhere to blag an off cut. Will get it sorted this morning. Cheers. Steve.

Anybody recommend anyone? As the Tittle says im after a Mail order supplier, (Preferably next day) of aluminium plate. Im after a piece of 8mm or 10mm thick 790mm wide (or 630 dependent on how I do it) by 950mm long. Its for an auto gearbox protection plate underneath my 100" Cheers. Steve.

Ive used the string method quite regularily a few years back when we went through a stage of fitting valve stem seals to the troublesome peugeot petrols and it works fine. Weve got a tool to compress the spring that just goes onto any stud in the head and bobs your uncle. A garage down the road was using compressed air via a cyl leakage tester to hold the valves in place which worked well but they once had an issue with an air line coupling coming apart and loosing a valve .

Are they oil pipes that you need to take to a cooler built into the rad like they would be on a normal 300 TDi or have they built in an oil cooler to the sandwich plate on the engine that needs a water supply (Like most modern VW/Audi stuff runs) like in the pic below? Throw that sump away and fit a D2 sump. Not much money new from ashcroft. Its the same but has a level plug with a copper washer instead of a dipstick. I wouldn't trust the dipstick in water.

Not sure about the cooling Alun but I would have thought the coolant hoses on the Rad wouldn't change. Ref the gear box, It takes a lot! Think mine, newly rebuilt, with the new converter and large took about 10 - 11 ltrs of fluid. Fill it through the dipstick tube untill its up the the full mark, Then put transfer box in nutral, start engine and keep filling it to the upper mark while working it through the gears. Then when the level settles give it a run up the road untill the box is up to temp and re check.

As its says, Anyone got the exploded views for a disco 2 TD5 front and rear axle components? Many thanks. Steve.

Does anyone know how it actually works? If I understand correctly it effectively gives 24V out of a twin battery 12v system. Can anyone confirm this? If this is the case, then for any prolonged winching while using it I would say you would need a pretty massive 12v alt. I would imagine it would be ideal as a quick and easy fix for a bit of extra power for occasional winching. It may be something completely different though, in which case I stand to be corrected!

My advise would be to have as few as possible. Most the trucks you see with lots of switches are for wannabe helicopter pilots. Wire the winch's ignition conscious or just remember to turn off the isolator and put fans etc on a temp switch as you will almost certainly forget them at some point. Having an extra override fan switch seems pointless, (If there's a fault in the system just bridge the relay to get you home). The more there is the more potential for problems exists and you really don't need them. I have an isolator for the compressor, Front locker, rear locker, Front/rear/ctr winch and a free spool. Simple but adequate

Just looking at the AE Wizard page, Does the slider with MAP Vs TPS allow you to give it a mixture of inputs to decide AE as its title suggests? I thought this wasn't possible with MS1? Is it just in the software but not available?

Right, Ive got the truck up and running, Spent two weekends ranting around in the wood and I love it. The V8 and the MS have been faultless, many thanks to all that have helped . Only problem is, over 80% sensible road driving in High box and 20% enthusiastic off roading in low box I am averaging around 5 mpg. This wont give me a long enough range on a reasonable size fuel tank for the events I want to do so I need to look into it. I will try and get some miles under my belt Data logging and try, with the help of the knowledgable people here, to improve the mapping ASAP, but that wont be for a couple of weeks and the only use the truck will be getting until then wont be suitable for such a task. I do however notice the light on the ECU for AE is triggered even with the lightest of presses on the throttle pedal (As FF suggested may be the case) so I assume this could be a bit over sensitive. Im going to have a bit of a go at trial and error adjustment (don't worry I have made a note of what it is now). So can anyone post some of their settings so I can get a rough idea where it should be? I know it wont be a case of sticking the figures in and it will work as all engines vary but an idea of what sort of thing I should be seeing would be great. Theres this one kindly posted by Tom for starters Any more? Many thanks. Steve. BTW, Its a std 3.9.

Can you fill in the gaps please? Theres a pic missing here and id like to see what a few other AE's look like.