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filthy

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    Wimborne Dorset

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    Anything 4x4 & rolling.

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    Grant B
  1. Alive - just......

  2. looking for another Discovery, having lost a home, 4 children, 2 Disco's & every thing I every owned to an EX Wife......

  3. Hi Teabag, Mine's a "N" 95/96 300TDi - yes black alarm sounder & two button fob. I'd be very pleased if some one could tell em the fob programming sequence. Filthy
  4. The waste gate stops the turbo "over-boosting" Exhaust back pressure is created by constrictions/obstructions in the exhaust - ie the cat converter or middle & back box. I removed my Cat & Middle box, but then had to fit a minor exhaust blockage to create back-pressure in the exhaust to get the turbo to work properly. With no/not enough exhaust back pressure, the turbo can spin up & be at peak revs by or before 2,500 engine revs. Should really peak out at higher engine revs than that. This also effects the fueling & can some times put too much air to fuel at the wrong engine revs. The turbo will over rev without an exhaust restriction, causing rapid wear on the spindle bearings. I managed to destroy a new turbo in 6 months with this turbo over-speeding issue. The faster the turbo revs, the faster it gets rid of lubricant thru its bearings. . . . If it's spinning its balls off at 2,200 engine revs, noting that the engine oil pressure increases with revs, then it's theoretically possible to starve the turbo of oil if it revs too fast at low engine speeds. The turbo effiency is all down to exhaust gas density & air-speed thru the manifold. There is a lot of development work done by manufacturers (£££ millions spent) with exhaust technology & silencers etc, So the only proper way to get more power by fiddling with the exhaust is to remove the cat only or get an aftermarket exhaust, or also remove the centre box & fit a small sheet metal obstruction in the exhaust airflow just before the rear silencer. Some back pressure is essential. Hope this helps.
  5. Jerboa, Do you know what the exact sequence is to teach the fob the alarm codes ? Hope so, been trying to find this for some time. Need to program a spare fob for wifes Disco. Cheers Filthy
  6. My Disco 300TDi had the same problem. Turned out to be the multi-plug behind the fuse box next to the drivers foot well - upper right under dash. Had other intermittent electrical issues also. The plug was never snapped shut properly from day one of manufacture. I also removed the volume down button from cluster & replaced it with a heated window switch & made an additional break in the solenoid wiring with it as an extra security measure & left a fly lead with a croc clip on the input volts side under the bonnet hidden incase it failed again, so the dash switch would still work & I could hook up to the battery if the problem re-occured. Filthy
  7. As TEABAG says, the rev counter is fed from the alternator. The tag that makes the connection can corrode, as does the spade terminal that plugs over it. A good wiggle & squeeze up the spade terminal a little should solve it, unless the alternator is fried.
  8. I got a 30mm spacer set on my Disco 300 TDi & the drive changes for the better. I have 235 x 16 tyres on it & they still fit under the arches . . . . . HOWEVER If you are goung to go on anything rougher than a road, you will need to increase ride height by 50mm with heavy duty springs, so the tyres don't crash into the arches. ALSO for the sake of an afternoons work, strongly suggest you strip & regrease hubs + a new set of seals, as the extensions will put some extra strain on the bearings. ALSO using a stanley blade, clean the old paint, crud, rust from the hub & rear of the wheel mating surfaces to ensure the extension does not run off-centre. When I first fitted my set, one front wheel developed a dreadfull wheel wobble due to crud trapped behind the spacer - carp removed - problem solved. With 30mm spacers fitted, the ride becomes more posative, cornering is better & my Disco starts to handle like a rear wheel drive vehicle, as the rear will step out first if pushed hard on slimey corners too fast. The turning circle will improve a lot as well. We got a standard Disco & mine with tricked up suspension & Extentions. The drive is so much better in mine. For my money I'd fit spacers to every Disco I'd buy from now on as soon as I could afford it. I used Bearmach +40mm springs & Pro-comp 9000 shockers & very impressed for a budget suspn kit. Filthy
  9. Disco 300TDi gearbox removal from under neath as follows - done 4. before you raise the front of vehicle, remove the bolts behind cyl head & start the two either side, Drop exhaust at manifold flange. Disconnect battery. Remove starter motor Remove fan top cover, fan itself. remove turbo air box air hose Disconnect lower hose outlet from turbo for more hand room Disconnect one end of top intercooler to inlet manifold pipe Disconnect one end of top water hose (maybe) to allow engine to rock backwards a little. Unhook gearbox breather pipes from nearside engine bay bulkhead Remove clutch slave cylinder from gearbox & push rod, hang out of way with bit of old coat hanger. Now clean hands thoroughly. . . . . get in vehicle with a notepad, short & long mdium philips screw driver & a small pair of pliers + battery drill & 7mm bit + small punch + small hammer, 13mm socket on ratchet spanner. to remove centre console. Ping gear stick base plate off, lift & undo 13mm bolt to unsecure main gear stick. Unscrew High/Low knob after pinging base-plate. Remove both stick ends & don't lose bolt. Remove black c'console rubber sheet. Empty cubby box Big phillips screw-driver to undo 2 x screws in cubby box + 2 x screws at front of console. Ping handbrake gaitor out of console. Remove clip & pin from handbrake. Ping elec window facia off + remove 4 screws of button mtg plate. Unhook wiring connectors from switches. Make sketch & mark colour positions for reconnection to switches. Lift h'brake vertically & lift out console & remember to unhook ciggy lighter power before tearing wiring from loom. Remove sound insulation Remove 4 screws from around main g'stick & the two round flat washers from stick base. CAREFULLY drill rivett heads from rubber seal & remove seal. Gear-box revealed. Punch out remains of rivets. From under vehicle - after it is on stands & PROPERLY & SAFELY supported. Remove front & rear props. * * * * *Loosen crossmember * * * * *Loosen gearbox mounts. don not remove completel yet. Push an engine crane into passenger door aperture & securely strop the gearbox allowing for the lowering to the ground. Take the weight of the g'box gently, taking the weight off the mounts, & so it does not drop an inch & bend the input shaft. With the gear box supported, undo the remaining engine/g'box bolts. Undo the bolts of the cross member & remove. . . . . It's v' heavy - beware. lower the gear box 1/2 inch. Now wiggle the g'box off the engine & lower a few more inches only. Disconnect the reversing light wiring & the speed sensor for dash clocks. Lower the box the rest of the way to the ground GENTLY ensuring that the breather pipes are not ripped off. There is a breather for the transfer box & main box. When refitting, change oil also. Transfer box has EP85/90 Main box has MTF 94 . . . . cheapo atf fluid will destroy the box rapidly - don't use it. Refit is the reverse of above. The whole removal & refit will likely take a day & best done with 2 people - safer & easier. Hope this says what you need. Regards Filthy.
  10. I found thed solution to my disco pulling . . . . it turned out to be that the gian washers each side of the trailing arm bushes on the fronts as well as the rear arms had been tightened so tightly, that the washer had been pushed over the steel bush inside the poly bush. So much so that one side of the vehicle, the wheels were 8mm closer than other side. Replaced the washers & steering was true & straight from then on. Filthy
  11. If you have a Disco that does not leak from the wading plug hole, then you have no oil in the engine . . . . . seriously, I've had 7 Disco's & they all leaked a little from the crank seal. to test how much, fit a wading plug for a week & then catch what comes out when you remove it. If it's a desert spoon full, then ignore it until you change the clutch & even if it's more - ignore it unless your clutch slips. We have 3 Discos & simply have a few shovels of sand under the area below the engines when parked. Rule of thumb . . . . . there is no such thing as a Disco that does not leak. Filthy
  12. I heard some one once say on this forum that he would not put sh*tpart water in his washer bottle. with good reson. I had a sh*tpart water pump. . . . . lasted 23 miles & I could not get a refund - because it was used. . . I must say that I had some Britpart Cellular shocks that were good for the money, but never heard any thing good about the rest of their stuff, or any success with any other of their stuff. Bear in mind, though call BRITPART - it's all made in bloody China. China is renound for selling cheap stuff, that's done on the cheap by unskilled people on-mass. My personal recomendation on springs, is get a set of Bearmach springs & Pro-comp shockers. They do what it says on the can & you can ring Bearmach & get good advice frrom some one who actually knows what he's talking about. For the money, Bearmach goodies are worth it & have a reasonable after sales support. Look above at the postings . . . . . Do Britpart have 100% good feedback - NO. If you want guaranteed perfect product, then your springs will cost some £100 a piece + vat. On a budget, go for the items with the least neg' feedback. This says NO to sh*tpart & a good YES to Bearmach ONE BRAND TO AVOID AT ALL COSTS IS FROGS-ISLAND TERRA-FIRMA SPRINGS & SHOCKS. I had 2 sets of these crappy things, cost me £285 above the cost of this sh*te in fitting, travel & Fernside 4x4 had my Landy for 2 weeks to no avail & I still had to fight for a refund. Your choice from here on. Filthy
  13. My wife's disco 300tdi, struggles to rev from cold start, but once revs hit 3,000 on a rev-up, fine from then on. Other causes, possibly a leaky lift pump, fuel running back to tank & then needing pulling back. Lift pumps are either £15 for cheap carp or £25 ish for a good one - go for the better one. Change fuel filter & remove & empty the carp trap under the tank. . . . remove the trap bowl, don't bother to try & undo the plastic screw, it'll probably break off & ideally the trap needs emptying out. Re cost of lift pump . . . . it' so cheap anyway & easy to do - just do it any way. Bleed the fuel system & bleed the injectors also - with a rag over the injector when you crack it off. The ticking noise - this could be not what you're thinking. . . . . My wife's disco had a failed spring in the vacuum pump - next to the lift pump. This ticked like hell, sounded like the biggest cam failure/valve clearence issue you ever heard. If you press the break pedal hard 6 times in quick succession & start losing break effectiveness, then it's a fair bet the vac pump is failing, or remove it, start up & listen for noise. refit straight away ofter, as oil will spray from hole in block. costs = lift pump £25 fuel filter £6 clear carp trap £0 either way, doing these will not do the engine any harm & probably overdue any way. Filthy
  14. If you havent fixed it yet, go for the cheap bits first. Get a haynes manual/download a manual to locate the parts. Check wastegate lever is attached to the actuator. Check the fuel boost pipes from turbo to inj' pump are present & not leaking + pipe from turbo to wastegate actuator. remove & examine all turbo pipes remove intercooler, flush with petrol & then thoroughly flush with water & ensure not blocked. All traces of petrol MUST be removed & intercooler thoroughly dry before refitting. is it possible that the valve clearences are too tight & not getting compression ? When you change the broken valve rocker, beware that the rocker rail studs are only fitted into aluminium & will easilly pull out of the head when you re-tighten. . . . .possibly do the nuts up with a 1/4 drive socket set gently, to lessen the risk of stripping the threads. . . . or just be gentle. If your vehicle is still fitted with an egr valve, perhaps your incompetent mechanic left it disconnected some how ? If it worked fine before this grease monkey fiddled with it, then the odds are that it will be a quick easy fix. Black smoke is burnt excess fuel, White smoke is unburnt fuel/wildly out engine timing. Blue smoke is burnt oil Hopefully you have warm weather to work on it. It's -3 degrees here early this morning in the UK. IF THE ENGINE HAS BEEN REBUILT, THEN IT IS ALSO POSSIBLE THE THE CAMSHAFT TIMING IS INCORRECT. this could cause all of your problems. Regards Filthy.
  15. Is this some thing that has just suddenly happened ? or gradually occured, or did you acquire the vehicle like this ? Could possibly be a blocked cat converter - happened to me. Slacken the 3 manifold flange to pipe bolts & see what happens. The other less desirable possibility is injection pump failure . . . . Also, remove the turbo intake pipe & see if you can spin the turbo on the end nut, possibly a siezed turbo. Filthy.
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