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justustwo

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About justustwo

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    cape town

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  1. Great thanks for advice .prop all off and was shocked at the state of that uj. Going to have a few days working thru the items.just out of interest the sliding joint of the rear prop has a stamped arrow which Obviously should line up with a corresponding mark on the closest uj end of the prop.I can't find any arrow but is it the raised dimple on the uj end.if so it was missaligned
  2. Top marks to Snagger and big thank you had a good look at the rear prop and why i didnt see this first off is my bad lot.was told before from a prop rebuilding guy that you should always take off a prop to properly check it but was being lazy☹️ also if you find that cups on the uj are shiny where the clip ring is it points to a failure? have taken rear prop off and locked diff whilst i source a new UJ. I do seem to have more backlash with only the front prop on On a 2nd point noticed my front left shock absorber bottom fixing is totally loose and although i tried to tighten need to soak the nut in wd40 first what with a needing to replace the rear transfer box output seal and possibly bearing, a rear hub seal,and a service my relaxing day ahead is gone thanks Propshaft_001.mp4
  3. Hi all I have a 1993 standard land rover defender 200 tdi hard top which i have owned and maintained about 8 years Lately i have welded up a hole /split in the exhaust downpipe by the support on the side of the engine as it had split and was what i thought was the cause of a really quite loud and irritating metal squeak/rattle/squeal (?) unfortunately i have put the exhaust all back together and that noise is still there just sounds like a loose downpipe or the like BUT its hard to pinpoint even where or what end of the car its coming from when your in car driving. my other half said it sounded as if coming from back wheel when she listened as i pulled into garage but just stripped the back wheels off and nothing to report there brakes ok(drums) and wheel bearings sound quiet when turning the wheels by hand quickly. what i noticed while driving it only happens as you take foot of the accelerator when IN gear but if i am going along road and foot on gas its not there and also when i am travelling along road and put into neutral and take foot of the gas it is also NOT there Have done a check by pulling around the propshafts and they seem tight with little play. I do have a weep of oil from the handbrake drum but awaiting a new seeal and possible trandsfer case bearing as the only other thing was when i am travelling and put it in neutral i can feel what seems like an out of balance bearing may be in the handbrake drum?? any thoughs on what may be the cause Lastly before i put the car back of the 2 rear axle stands is it ok/safe to put the front up as well on 2 stands and run in gear ...i am sure this ok but just want to know as never done it thanks and appreciate any helpful advice
  4. yes i too have had constant trouble with this bracket snapping the bolts ,have had it back in for a year with 8.8 bolts this time and touch wood seems to be holding, Do you have the little triangular spacing plate between the bracket and block (4mm thick i think )
  5. https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1195-200-Tdi-Defender-Alternator-Up/ that would of course be my first choice unfortunately getting it down here to Cape Town with the transport and customs would at least double if not triple the cost what with the state of the currency here but thanks for suggestion
  6. that pic of the alternator looks strange anyway unless its just that its a disco setup ...air filter on wrong side and and my pipe from bottom intercooler stub to turbo would be right in the way.... Anyone know about the pulley swap on one of these uprated alternator to accept a single v belt .I had a quick look online and it looks like the pulley is on a splined shaft could be a bit awkward/not straight forward to swap to the v belt???
  7. thats great Mike will take a look around the local scrapyards for that mondeo thank you
  8. Hi all i have a standard 200tdi defender with a Magneti Marelli A127-55 (genuine Land Rover branded alternator) I know there is a larger capacity 90 or 100 amp Bosch (i think ) alternator which fit but i am wanting to know if anyone knows which cars these higher rated Bosch alternator is installed in anyone know ? thanks for any advice
  9. IF you are putting the puma rear seats into an older tdi then you need to add spacer blocks as the the wheel arch boxes of the puma and tdi are different
  10. sorry to everyone for not updating but have taken the spare alternator to a friend who is is long standing auto electrician for the police dept and he is going to take a look. .At least when i did go through with him he confirmed that it was not on the car that the problem was coming from but from the alternator itself. still not got any real clues as of yet but as soon as i do will update
  11. hi there yes the light goes on as soon as ignition goes on and stays on when engine fires up. I did test the voltage on that wire and if i test the wire by taking it of the alternator D-+ terminal i get 12.6volt (battery voltage)from that wire to earth with ignition on but engine not running.BUT if i leave it on the alternator D+terminal and make a break in the wire with a chocolate block i am only getting 1.4 volts when connected to earth??? what i cant understand is was working before removal of alternator braket and was not knocked about severely at all AND the other spare alternator tested with the same results but was bench tested and also came up as broken?? if i thought that the charge light circuit was broken i would have take a wire with a test bulb straight from D+ alt and straight to battery + but the alt is coming back broken on a test bench??
  12. Firstly Sorry for long post but need to give all the info as it may also help someone diagnose my problem I have 2 Lucas A127 65 amp alternators which are from my land rover defender tdi(200) to give a quick summary: one of these actual alternators has been on the car for last 6 years and has been charging both my batteries in the car (I have a National Luna dual battery split charge system installed) The alternator has been giving a good charge everyday of 14.2volts approx,although it would not hold that voltage steady when i put a bit of load on with lights heater it could go down to maybe 13,8volts which i realised is a bit weak. I have a Madman monitoring system in the car which give instant live time display of coolant temp,oil temps ,exhaust gas temp, oil pressure etc BUT more importantly with connection to this matter ,battery voltage so i can accurately see the battery charging voltage all the time and all these parameters are alarmed with low and high settings. Last week i had to replace a power steering pump / alternator mounting bracket which was easy BUT after putting it all back together i cannot get a charge on the alternator its sticking at 12.6 volts with a fully charged battery. As i say i never had ANY problems with charging at 14.2 volts before this current bit of work and would start vehicle on the button all day long even on coldest days Battery is fairly new 5 months ago( last one lasting over 9 years-showing vehicle has been keeping a good charge). I have checked the wiring to the alternator which is only 2 wires ,the main battery positve wire goes to the B+ post, and warning light cable to the D+ post of the alternator. After not getting a charge I have done a voltage drop test on the alternator positive lead and it came back good at @0.2 v same with the negative connection from the alternator casing to the negative post on the battery. Thinking i must have damaged the alternator somehow i took it out and did the following (stripped down )tests. on this alternator AND the spare one that i had lying about as a spare . 1) test on the rotor windings from the earth of the claw magnet of the rotor to each slip ring and both ended up open circuit (OL). Also the slip rings are in good condition no obvious wear. next tested the resistance between the slip rings and it came back as 3.1 ohms .my workshop manual gives a value of 3.2ohms As far as i can see this all in spec??? 2) Next the stator windings (which had the rectifier(s) unsoldered and removed ) testing between each pair of the 3 windings i got values of 0.2 ohms on each of the 3 pairs. .my workshop manual gives a value of 0.15ohms test on the stator windings from the earth of the magnet of the stator to each of the pair of 3 phase windings and all ended up open circuit (OL). As far as I can see this all in spec??? 3) rectifier:I tested on the diode setting from B+ post to the 3 top diodes and they all came back open circuit(OL) then swaped leads arounfd and tested the same 3 diodes and had readings of 0.54 volts(+/- 0.01volts) Then used the bottom earth point on the rectifier to check the other diodes and the all came with rhe same results. I even had a spare 3rd rectifier that i tested also with same results I cant be 100% on my testing at the correct points on these diodes as i have tried to reasearch where they are it comes back that there are 9 diodes 6 from the stator windings and 3 which come from the rotor windings. I will put some pictures of where i am testing these below. Lastly could not test the voltage regulator so replaced with new one (twice !,once on each alternator) and still the alternator when fitted to car produces no charge and charge lite constantly lit.Had the 2nd alternator (which gave allexactly the same readings as first) bench tested and is showing no charge with charge light constantly lit. I am completely stumped why for a start has the alternator come to give problems ONLY after removing its mounting bracket for repair . How sturdy are they? Is it usual to be easily damaged inside by slight knocking about whilst working around them? Remember the 2nd alternator( identical results) has been BENCH tested and also shows no charge. Am i testing all the diodes (and correctly)? I only see 6 of them but what is that black rectangular component with letters "DIET" on and could this also be a diode Just to say this is me wanting to understand what is wrong rather than just bung in a new rectifier /regulator or complete alternator. Im in South Africa and often drive long distances without any support or backup so need things working or at the very least to understand how to diagnose and fix
  13. thanks for the replies and advice.ok wanted to load a video but its peeing down here in cape town,maybe later. at least others have the same problem of having to takepump of the bracket to get ( origional size) belt on/off . anyone ever attempted checking the pressure of the system as described in the workshop manual? obviously cant get genuine LR service tools but must be able to make up a test set with high reading gauge??
  14. Hi all have a standard 1993 200tdi defender which has always had a problem with the power steering . I think i have narrowed it down to the pulley on the PAS pump being` slightly` bent/dented AND MAYBE a non standard size .Can anyone measure up for me the real true size of the pulley . I have always been unable to get a standard PAS belt on without having to undo all three bolts that( hold and adjust) the pump on to the bracket and then i can slip the belt on and just manage to get it bolted up and then can adjust it up. I definitely have a slight dent in the pulley and didnt think it was a real problem but now think it could be causing me vibration/running problems which lead to snapping the bracket holding bolts .The belt you can visualy see wobble when running can upload video. Also can someone give me advice on just how much steering assistance i should be getting (before this car i was use to a series 3 so my arms are bigger than normal) ...i know its hard to say but at idle i can turn the wheels but its not hard but also not easy easy and would have to use both hands....is this normal. If my pulley was slightly bigger than it should be then i would be getting less assistance?? thanks for any input and advice
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