justustwo

I can now confirm that the return spring effect on the 3rd key position IS in the rear switch and NOT the lock assembly

Hi all need some advice on an ignition switch problem on my standard 1993 defender 200tdi Long story but my ignition switch has been playing up for quite a few months sometimes getting the key stuck and not being able to turn it but also on other occasions turning to on and no power at all with only my clock and cigarette lighter still working Have previously changed the ignition barrel and switch assembly 2 or 3 years ago and thought i had solved the problems The ignition barrel assembly has stamped the origional markings arount the key barrel bezel which states: o) i) ii) iii) this i presume would be; o) OFF and can take the key out where on the steering lock is engaged i) ignition is on for things like radio if fitted and cigarette lighter if fitted(nothing fitted on mine -....not sure if fuel cutoff solenoid would come on here or next position? ii) glow plugs engaged via glow plug timer relay iii)should be able to turn key on a spring mechanism(??) to engage starter and once started you release and key goes back to position ii) with engine running. i need to know is this spring return part of: The back switch assembly....... OR..... part or the ignition barrel arrangement I have two complete switches with both whole ignition barrels working the same or maybe both broken as neither spring back with the rear switch removed ? Has anyone tried replacing the ignition barrel in the ignition lock assembly and is it easy or even possible any suggestion please i may need to also ask later about the wiring from this ignition but that can wait as need to order either a new switch and /or barrel with lock assembly

oh bummer that was the answer i really didnt want to hear but that refurbished clutch was all i could find at the time and the fact that it has a Toyota turbo diesel in just made it all complicated .Its so nice having another standard defender where the parts are just what is expected.. the best thing to come from all of this is i have an organised workshop at last that i can work in.. Been running it through my brain constantly and yes the clutch plate centre boss in the old set up does seem to look a bit closer to the fingers but what i cant understand that surely the pushrod on the release bearing only just touched the fingers when i pushed it with my hand to the full extension of where the slave cylinder would fall out of its cylinder?The fingers on the pressure plate just seem virtually flat on both the old and new setup and even though the clutch plate you say is scrap cant see how that w/could allow more movement on the pressure plate fingers? My old clutch setup was working with me for close on 4 years with no problem until it suddenly went due to broken damper springs jamming the system and remember it was an everyday vehicle come workhorse come holiday vehicle. and that pressure plate fingers still looked very flat?? when a clutch system does wear out do the fingers go visually flatter ?? So if i try again to source a new clutch and pressure plate i can put a micrometer on the input splines to measure and probably count the number of splines and also try to measure each width of spline as i now have no accurate reference to get a replacement.and having the conversion engine cant get any data for it Please keep any further suggestions coming as im working on blind instinct at the moment thanks all

Hi all back again and the clutch saga continues .After 3 full days of tidying the space in the garage to allow me to slip the gearbox back and check the clutch i have finally got the clutch revealed and to my pleasure and pain i discovered that the driven plate WAS correctly installed with the flywheel side stamped and marked and up against the flywheel .I say pleasure as its nice to know i didnt do a stupid mistake BUT i am no nearer a solution so my search and pain continues. I searched through all my old parts (which i always keep and found 2 old identical release bearings one must be from my current driving defender and the other must be from this problem series3 and unfortunately they are identical in type and size so no solution there and leaving me at a complete loss to what or where the problem is. I have .looked and studied carefully at every picture i have taken and the only difference i can see from the old fully working clutch setup is the driven plate -the pressure plate i am 99.9% sure is my original that has just been refurbished but the drive plate was refurbished with heavier damper springs. i can remember the clutch refurbisher guy saying that the old ones were quite small and weak for the current set up so he put 4 heavier duty ones in as opposed to the 6 that were in the original (remember that this was the cause of the clutch giving way( the broken damper springs jammed up the clutch). I cant see how the slightly different drive plate configuration of 4 damper springs compared to the 6 in the original setup but cant see how this would allow the release bearing to contact the pressure plate fingers any earlier ?? Is there any easy way to test the pressure plate ? Help any other suggestions please im getting stumped even for possible solutions even thought that maybe the flywheeel had been skimmed to far down but cant see that as feasible. its a 9inch driven plate by the way The video show the driven plate on the shaft and seem to be fully engaged but is it normal to have so much :wobble: on it?: cant see that that would cause to clutch not to disengage though video-1588711834.mp4

Hi all thanks for all the responses and some very good thoughts .Have been trying to sort out garage work space for last 2 days and still trying to finnish it of today before get on with the clutch !! i cant believe how much stuff we obtain being landy drivers or is that just my hording.I have doors windscreen tx boxes springs before i even get to open the entrance door fully! Still trying to hunt down my box of used parts with the old release bearing but as soon as i get it will compare and update here thanks .

thanks im getting ready to slide the gearbox back but to do it i need to move a whole lot of stuff from the garage to get enough space to work around so thats my plan today. yes i would rather buy new but seem to remember when i was looking the local LR guy i use said was certainly diff than any lr stuff so just went refurbished and was desperate for cash and couldnt get any info on where to get a new replacement

Thanks for reply no its not a LT77(you say LT76 but think your typo or is that the code for a series 3 box -not sure?) its a Santana series 3 gearbox .I am in South Africa and its in a series 3 1984 called an R^ which was the South African version of the stage 1 in uk but had a 4 speed beefier gearbox/ tx box from Santana but to all sense and purposes a series 3 box

Good thought.I'm sure I got the old one in a box so will check on that in morning thanks

hi guys ok update . took slave cylinder off today and there is hardly any resistance on the pushrod when i push it with my hand.Feels correct and is not binding on the shaft. But as Snagger suggested the fingers on the pressure plate look quite flat but i have also uploaded photos of what the clutch assembly looked like when it was first taken out and they also look quite flat. The clutch pressure plate was refurbished from a local firm and the clutch friction plate was relined. I still find it hard to believe that i have put clutch plate in wrong way around , have tried enlarging photos to maximum on current clutch set up and i cant say for sure that i can see any problem? A thought just occured as i was writing this is that the pushrod when i push it in by hand, extends to just past the adapter plate/bell housing where the slave is bolted to and it only just touches the fingers.There is a 1mm spacer between the slave housing and bellhousing face(iyt cant extend further or else the piston would come out of slave bore....could i have swapped the pushrod accidentally with an old discarded one from my 200tdi defender and maybe they are slighlty shorter in length .?? Why i am stalling till last moment taking clutch back out to check orientation is that i dont want to disturb the engine again as just got everything sorted in engine bay and the car is in a very restricted garage and cant be easily moved anywhere..Thinking of sliding gearbox back on temporary thread studding to get access(after taking of gear lever housings?(props already off now) ?? Any further thoughts, suggestions or anything else most welcome please see the latest pics to see if you can see anything of help to me thanks all VID-20200427-WA0001.mp4

sorry for delay in replying .thanks for comments even though not really what i want to hear .I have not got any pics of the clutch being bolted in but had a pic of the old one coming out and also a short video of new clutch showing throw or the clutch fork against the bearing seems very small no?really keeping taking it all out again as my last option.going to take of the slave and see if all right and working .On the video can you hear the mechanical stop sound as the throw of the bearing against the clutch is at its limit what could that be? VID-20200426-WA0016.mp4 VID-20200426-WA0016.mp4 VID-20200426-WA0008.mp4 VID-20200426-WA0016.mp4

Oh no!!not the reply I wanted but part of me if half expecting.it's taken me 8 years to get this far😣I am half expecting lockdown to be finished by the time I have it done. Any thoughts on how far in general the movement of the release bearing on the clutch diaphragm should be?

hi all needing all of those knowledgeable ones to give some input please . Have a lwb series 3 1984 which has been off the road for a few years .Has a Toyota turbo diesel engine in () and was all working well as my daily driver up till 2012 when clutch went and left me off the road. As far as i remember one of the damper springs fell out of the clutch plate and jammed.During this time. i then acquired a later Defender which has been my sole daily driver since. During the last 3 years or so i took the engine out of the broken down series3 and replaced the clutch and repaired a few of the leaks on the leaky Toyota Then unfortunately work commitments meant it was left uninstalled from the gearbox inside the house. around 2 years ago got it back easily into car and got engine running in car . . now i get to this point : The car is starting easily enough but the clutch will not disengage to allow me to put it into gear with engine running.If i attempt to turn engine on with the car in 1st gear it will lurch forward (as expected) Things i have done so far are : bled any air out of the system test master cylinder by clamping the flexi outlet hose and i get a nice firm pedal. slave cylinder is not leaking and no further bubbles come out .Im not sure but i think i put new seals in the slave whilst the clutch was being installed?? Have adjusted pedal height to 140mm from floor by starting the engine in 1st gear Tried to jolt the car to see if clutch had rusted to flywheel -dont think it could have done so though as i am in warm dry South Africa and has been inside the biggest concerns and my thinkings behind why it is not going into gear is: When i put my foot down on the clutch pedal it feel normal for what feels like a third of the normal travel, then it goes solid and feels a mechanical sort of stop and if i were to go further it feels like something would break. when i look through the inspection plate in the bell housing the clutch arm is pushing the fork against the release bearing but the the bearing only moves about 5mm this surely is not enough? Now with the propshafts connected the shaft from the gearbox that this release bearing is on(is that the primary shaft?) does not seem to be turning either with engine on or off- should I not be seeing this try to turn as i attempt to put in gear or is there an outer covering shaft like a bush which prevents me seeing the primary shaft turning?? About 8 months ago when I did first engine start after installed with replaced clutch i am sure i remember that the handbrake drum was turning round fairly slowly as if it was slightly dragging with engine running this was before i installed the props.i think i could stop it just by putting my foot against the drum I've tried finding the pictures i took when i did replace clutch to see if i can see anything stupid i have done but cant find them .I am 99.99% sure i would not have put clutch drive plate wrong way round.i have done clutch on defender before and all well no problems and i dont consider myself a novice or inept Another thing that crossed my mind is COULD(??) i have accidentally used my later defender 200tdi old slave cylinder( which i then would have resealed ) but it could have had a shorter push rod sorry for long post but really need to get the old girl running again as going to need it once this whole lockdown is over stay safe and please any suggestions

Sorry working on phone and pics taking a while to load

Great thanks for advice .prop all off and was shocked at the state of that uj. Going to have a few days working thru the items.just out of interest the sliding joint of the rear prop has a stamped arrow which Obviously should line up with a corresponding mark on the closest uj end of the prop.I can't find any arrow but is it the raised dimple on the uj end.if so it was missaligned

Top marks to Snagger and big thank you had a good look at the rear prop and why i didnt see this first off is my bad lot.was told before from a prop rebuilding guy that you should always take off a prop to properly check it but was being lazy☹️ also if you find that cups on the uj are shiny where the clip ring is it points to a failure? have taken rear prop off and locked diff whilst i source a new UJ. I do seem to have more backlash with only the front prop on On a 2nd point noticed my front left shock absorber bottom fixing is totally loose and although i tried to tighten need to soak the nut in wd40 first what with a needing to replace the rear transfer box output seal and possibly bearing, a rear hub seal,and a service my relaxing day ahead is gone thanks Propshaft_001.mp4

Hi all I have a 1993 standard land rover defender 200 tdi hard top which i have owned and maintained about 8 years Lately i have welded up a hole /split in the exhaust downpipe by the support on the side of the engine as it had split and was what i thought was the cause of a really quite loud and irritating metal squeak/rattle/squeal (?) unfortunately i have put the exhaust all back together and that noise is still there just sounds like a loose downpipe or the like BUT its hard to pinpoint even where or what end of the car its coming from when your in car driving. my other half said it sounded as if coming from back wheel when she listened as i pulled into garage but just stripped the back wheels off and nothing to report there brakes ok(drums) and wheel bearings sound quiet when turning the wheels by hand quickly. what i noticed while driving it only happens as you take foot of the accelerator when IN gear but if i am going along road and foot on gas its not there and also when i am travelling along road and put into neutral and take foot of the gas it is also NOT there Have done a check by pulling around the propshafts and they seem tight with little play. I do have a weep of oil from the handbrake drum but awaiting a new seeal and possible trandsfer case bearing as the only other thing was when i am travelling and put it in neutral i can feel what seems like an out of balance bearing may be in the handbrake drum?? any thoughs on what may be the cause Lastly before i put the car back of the 2 rear axle stands is it ok/safe to put the front up as well on 2 stands and run in gear ...i am sure this ok but just want to know as never done it thanks and appreciate any helpful advice

yes i too have had constant trouble with this bracket snapping the bolts ,have had it back in for a year with 8.8 bolts this time and touch wood seems to be holding, Do you have the little triangular spacing plate between the bracket and block (4mm thick i think )

https://www.lrdirect.com/DA1195-200-Tdi-Defender-Alternator-Up/ that would of course be my first choice unfortunately getting it down here to Cape Town with the transport and customs would at least double if not triple the cost what with the state of the currency here but thanks for suggestion

that pic of the alternator looks strange anyway unless its just that its a disco setup ...air filter on wrong side and and my pipe from bottom intercooler stub to turbo would be right in the way.... Anyone know about the pulley swap on one of these uprated alternator to accept a single v belt .I had a quick look online and it looks like the pulley is on a splined shaft could be a bit awkward/not straight forward to swap to the v belt???

thats great Mike will take a look around the local scrapyards for that mondeo thank you

Hi all i have a standard 200tdi defender with a Magneti Marelli A127-55 (genuine Land Rover branded alternator) I know there is a larger capacity 90 or 100 amp Bosch (i think ) alternator which fit but i am wanting to know if anyone knows which cars these higher rated Bosch alternator is installed in anyone know ? thanks for any advice

IF you are putting the puma rear seats into an older tdi then you need to add spacer blocks as the the wheel arch boxes of the puma and tdi are different

sorry to everyone for not updating but have taken the spare alternator to a friend who is is long standing auto electrician for the police dept and he is going to take a look. .At least when i did go through with him he confirmed that it was not on the car that the problem was coming from but from the alternator itself. still not got any real clues as of yet but as soon as i do will update

hi there yes the light goes on as soon as ignition goes on and stays on when engine fires up. I did test the voltage on that wire and if i test the wire by taking it of the alternator D-+ terminal i get 12.6volt (battery voltage)from that wire to earth with ignition on but engine not running.BUT if i leave it on the alternator D+terminal and make a break in the wire with a chocolate block i am only getting 1.4 volts when connected to earth??? what i cant understand is was working before removal of alternator braket and was not knocked about severely at all AND the other spare alternator tested with the same results but was bench tested and also came up as broken?? if i thought that the charge light circuit was broken i would have take a wire with a test bulb straight from D+ alt and straight to battery + but the alt is coming back broken on a test bench??

Firstly Sorry for long post but need to give all the info as it may also help someone diagnose my problem I have 2 Lucas A127 65 amp alternators which are from my land rover defender tdi(200) to give a quick summary: one of these actual alternators has been on the car for last 6 years and has been charging both my batteries in the car (I have a National Luna dual battery split charge system installed) The alternator has been giving a good charge everyday of 14.2volts approx,although it would not hold that voltage steady when i put a bit of load on with lights heater it could go down to maybe 13,8volts which i realised is a bit weak. I have a Madman monitoring system in the car which give instant live time display of coolant temp,oil temps ,exhaust gas temp, oil pressure etc BUT more importantly with connection to this matter ,battery voltage so i can accurately see the battery charging voltage all the time and all these parameters are alarmed with low and high settings. Last week i had to replace a power steering pump / alternator mounting bracket which was easy BUT after putting it all back together i cannot get a charge on the alternator its sticking at 12.6 volts with a fully charged battery. As i say i never had ANY problems with charging at 14.2 volts before this current bit of work and would start vehicle on the button all day long even on coldest days Battery is fairly new 5 months ago( last one lasting over 9 years-showing vehicle has been keeping a good charge). I have checked the wiring to the alternator which is only 2 wires ,the main battery positve wire goes to the B+ post, and warning light cable to the D+ post of the alternator. After not getting a charge I have done a voltage drop test on the alternator positive lead and it came back good at @0.2 v same with the negative connection from the alternator casing to the negative post on the battery. Thinking i must have damaged the alternator somehow i took it out and did the following (stripped down )tests. on this alternator AND the spare one that i had lying about as a spare . 1) test on the rotor windings from the earth of the claw magnet of the rotor to each slip ring and both ended up open circuit (OL). Also the slip rings are in good condition no obvious wear. next tested the resistance between the slip rings and it came back as 3.1 ohms .my workshop manual gives a value of 3.2ohms As far as i can see this all in spec??? 2) Next the stator windings (which had the rectifier(s) unsoldered and removed ) testing between each pair of the 3 windings i got values of 0.2 ohms on each of the 3 pairs. .my workshop manual gives a value of 0.15ohms test on the stator windings from the earth of the magnet of the stator to each of the pair of 3 phase windings and all ended up open circuit (OL). As far as I can see this all in spec??? 3) rectifier:I tested on the diode setting from B+ post to the 3 top diodes and they all came back open circuit(OL) then swaped leads arounfd and tested the same 3 diodes and had readings of 0.54 volts(+/- 0.01volts) Then used the bottom earth point on the rectifier to check the other diodes and the all came with rhe same results. I even had a spare 3rd rectifier that i tested also with same results I cant be 100% on my testing at the correct points on these diodes as i have tried to reasearch where they are it comes back that there are 9 diodes 6 from the stator windings and 3 which come from the rotor windings. I will put some pictures of where i am testing these below. Lastly could not test the voltage regulator so replaced with new one (twice !,once on each alternator) and still the alternator when fitted to car produces no charge and charge lite constantly lit.Had the 2nd alternator (which gave allexactly the same readings as first) bench tested and is showing no charge with charge light constantly lit. I am completely stumped why for a start has the alternator come to give problems ONLY after removing its mounting bracket for repair . How sturdy are they? Is it usual to be easily damaged inside by slight knocking about whilst working around them? Remember the 2nd alternator( identical results) has been BENCH tested and also shows no charge. Am i testing all the diodes (and correctly)? I only see 6 of them but what is that black rectangular component with letters "DIET" on and could this also be a diode Just to say this is me wanting to understand what is wrong rather than just bung in a new rectifier /regulator or complete alternator. Im in South Africa and often drive long distances without any support or backup so need things working or at the very least to understand how to diagnose and fix