justustwo

Hi all very fed up at the moment as have my left front radius arm off and got the old bushes out but cannot for the life of me get the new ones in. Have tried jacking the front of my other series 3 on to the bush and into the arm hole but is not having any of it.Managed to get one in but now need to go somewhere to have them pressed in. Question :can I also take the other radius arm of and have the whole axel on stands so that Ionly have to go once to have the bushes pressed in?? Could there be any problem in doing both radius arms off at same time. Anyone offer advice or suggestions please need to be back on the road asap SORRY meant to say these are origional metalastic bushes although from britpart (but with a G ending part number) Dont want to go poly bushed route thanks

i Managed to get all done yesterday and just going to check the tracking this morning.As for the drop arm on a defender i thought it could only go on in one position? one thing i did see from the ball joint replacement in situ on Les Hensons thread in the tech archives, the spring that goes underneath the pin and cup i have put in with the small diamter of the spring facing up towards the castleated nut/pin(large diameter of spring towards the circlip/disc) as i could not read/understand how Les was explaining that the` thinner` part of the spring should be at the bottom.I took it from the diagram in LR manual Lastly what a pain it is getting those rubber boot retaining clips on especially the small one which defeated me for at least 30 mins with my blood pressure rising steadily,any hints for next time?

wow great stuff Western,....such a quick response, where on earth did you find that... i looked all over in the LR manual

Hi all hope everyones having great weekend. I have just overhauled my passenger swivel with new seals and check of pre load along with all 4 ball joints(the steering box ball joint is still to go on and drivers swivel was done 6 months ago) I got it all back together last weekend and all nice with no leaks and not so much vibration on tsteering wheel. The only problem i had was my steering was very slightly going to the left and my steering wheel was annoyingly off centre by about 10 degrees. I had tried to get the ball joints in exactly the same length but i have also replaced a badly bent track rod. Question: i want to do the tracking myself with a bit of string around the car which i feel happier to do rather than let an uninterested numpty guess what it should be as he thinks about what his dinner will be that night . I have seen a lot of posts saying that the drag link should be a specific length and this will set the steering wheel straight ??...but cant find any data for what length this should be?? , is it just a case of adjusting the drag link length untill the steering wheel shows straight(it always was straight before last weekend) This weekend i am replacing that last ball joint on the end of the pitman arm going to the drag link and then will try to get it nicely tracked if can get any answer to the above Thanks all and enjoy the weekend

thanks western that helps me . i couldnt be sure on that number but now on second look could be a (N). Anyone give any advice on the merits of changing bot front coils at same time so i can measure to see if they have been put in the wrong way around

Hi guys, I have a 1993 200tdi hardtop which I have owned around 2 years and have loved every second of owning it. Since I have had the vehicle it has had a lean /sag on the front passenger side and it has been suggested that this could have possibly been because the coils could have been inserted thewrong side (as far as I am reading they are handedleft and right?) From people who have seen the vehicle they have also said they could have beenuprated coils in the whole vehicle. Now I have been given aset of 4 coils two fronts are as new and have the numbers WRC 9449 on and the rears have only had very minimal use (cant see any numbers on theses). Now I would like to know if I can safely replace both the front coils at the same time and whilst doing the work is it possible for me to assess if in fact the original front coils are in fact the wrong way around in which case I could possibly just swap them around the other way? Is there a standard place and dimension to see what type of springs you are using are or if you have any type of lift on your vehicle? Hope the gurus out there can be of some help Andrew

I done mine last weekend after suffering for over 7 months and 13000kms on "genuine" mounts that were terrible. Took less than1hr to swap them, all is very easily accessible (on standard defender )and i even took both props off to make sure i didnt stress anything (but dont think i really need to take them off). change them you wont be disappointed

I think it all had to do with the previous apathied regime and not getting fullimported landrover parts ,but i know all the landrovers i have seen around the age of mine have the same roof (white)

sorry for not thanking all earlier time passes on sop quick...still not swapped over yet but have my 80 year old mother coming over for a holiday in April !! so girlfriend has to go in the back and windows there MUST be or may have bit of anger in my ear Change is hopefully going ahead next weekend... is there any specific seal(s) needed or can just some nice squidgy rubber for roof/window area/anywhere else....... I agree about the alpine windows and that was just a after thought . I have seen lots of my original (white) roofs and they are really nice being double skinned fibreglass no lining needed and heavy /strong compared to others . but never seen the one with the angle at the bottom which is single skinned but has a game viewing hatch which is going to come in very handy hence the wanted change the landy is a 93 defender and yes the rear lights are almost same as my late series3 (r6) thanks to all and keep all info/ hints coming

hi all this is one of a few posts i am going to put on today ...its defender work weekend ..hub seal and swivels already in progress. I have a Madman engine monitoring system in my 93 200tdi standard defender and been in a few months (use to have it in an old series) but till now have not had the coolant temperature connected as i want to keep the original LR coolant gauge connected AS WELL. I thought I might be able to put a standard inline coolant pipe with sender boss in where the bypass hose is on the stat housing but theres not enough space (to keep it easy). I thought the bypass hose would be good as it would give the true engine temp rather than in the rad top hose after the stat as this will only give true engine temp when stat is open .yes??? cant really easily get a 'T' piece into original stat sender and would then be a bit away from the coolant flow so could get cold spot. ok does anyone know where a point on the block I can insert a VDO sender(1/8 npt..can also use adapters to suit). Otherwise i thought get a boss put on the copper(?) pipe going along top of head to the heater...Does that always shows true engine coolant temp ??? last place i could think is if I drill & tap the thermostat hosing in the point on the picture?? any help or hints?? thanks all Andrew

I had this exact same problem after changing my engine ( and gearbox mounts) on my 93 200tdi. I am in Cape Town South Africa and changed the mounts twice in the last year because the mounts were so bad .First ones came in a blue box and were awful next ones were supposedly genuine and even worse!!! Just let it try to settle and see if it got better ....well time got the better of me and they were on for the last 9 months 13000kms and its was dire. Had Glencoyne mounts shipped over and got to put them on last week and WOW I have a Rolls Royce super vibration free vehicle again. 20 odd quid of the best money i have spent. apparently well known that there have been a bad bunch of even genuine mounts that were way to hard...one of the dealers told me to try drilling 4 or 5 holes thru the rock hard mounts but didn't really feel that was acceptable,would you think drill all the way thru or just to the middle and say with 4mm bit??? will keep the ones that came off and may try to do it and put on the gearbox if ever needed(i only put the good Glencoyne mounts on the engine) hth Andrew

hi guys sorry for delay in updating this post. Ok the lip at the bottom of the van sides where it joins the tub has a lip that is just bent /formed out of the side . Its not a riveted section or something that is added but just a continuation from the bottom of the van side. I have attached another picture but very hard to get an easy viewable pic.Its also very hard to search the internet for a picture of similar van sides with a lip. I did have plans to swap thie canopy over last weekend but the weather was just not playing ball with temperatures at 39 just not conducive to any work...........oh forgot to add thats + 39 degreess C ...im here in Cape Town not back in blighty ...sorry

anyone got any info?

Hi all I have been given a defender 110 hardtop roof with sides including windows which I am wanting to put on my defender hard top so that my 4 year old daughter who sits in car seat in the back gets a bit more view . However the hardtop has a slightly different arrangement where it joins the tub as it has a small (5mm) right angled lip. Has anyone got this setup on there defender (pic would be great!) and will it be a straight swap and any problems with that LIP. Looks like it could be very easy to catch clothing and stuff on it? Is the swap simple and can me and my wife do it in 4 hrs?(we lifted ok on to the trailer) would also at some stage like if feasble to try putting in the standard alpine roof windows into the fibreglass (single skinned roof- my origional white roof is a very heavy duty double skinned fibreglass one so would have been impossible to get those windows in there.) Anyone got these in fibreglass roof? We will be repainting the vehicle all bright orange with black roof after we know all fits well Any advice on the roof swap gratefully received Have a good day Andrew

i have a 1993 lwb defender 200tdi and redone all the wires and the diode ( i had a a pair/Pic 2 and a pair of i think capacitors??/pic one)was behind the main instrument binnacle by the speedo.Here is a picture of it and the spaghetti i was dealing with....oh by the way i am colour blind

well its been nearly a month that the Britpart mounts have been on and although I THINK(?) it has got better by a very little amount it is still very tiresome driving like it. People look very strangely at me when stopped at the robots(traffic lights in South Africa) and think i will try and find and fork out for some genuines There is a rubber manufacturing place here that could make them up but i think it could be a very hit and miss affair to get it right as when i use to work on boats we had to give engine rpm, weight and power for them to calculate the correct hardness so far i have seen advertised at Glencoyne 21 pounds for a pair??(will try first with just engine ones). let you know how i get on

Hi all good bunch of posts above and i have a hardtop 110 here in South Africa where are laws are much less rigid and unfortunatley the road accidents are absolutley horrendous with many a day having 20- 30 people killed in a SINGLE incident. I have a 3.5 year old which use to sit first in a rear facing approved car seat in the middle row seat in our series 3 then as she got over 9 kg went into a forward facing approved car seat. Unfortunatley ( ???)we now use a defender hardtop and now we put her in the (only)front passenger seat in a fwd facing car seat and mum has to climb into the load area and sit on a very uncomfortable wheel arch (unstrapped ! and ready to be a human projectile in any accident) Its a bit of an off joke but the land rover slogan of "ONE LIFE, LIVE IT !" .for me is more like : " ONE WIFE, LIVID ! " Now little one can physically fit well in the front centre seat and i find it very easy and comfortable to drive but i still want her properly strapped in (and preferrably ALSO in a car seat) . Could a 3.5 year old not be put into a middle seat with a racing style 5 point harness that i could have made up properly to suit her?? The other way i could do it would be to remove the actual centre seat and fix a car seat slightly further back to allow elbow room and fixed straight to the seat box with purpose made ratchet type straps and reinforced eye bolts and in this way she will have the original 5 point harness style strap of the car seat. Then mum can come back to the front and also be strapped in again and we can enjoy the "ONE LIFE, LIVE IT !" I know this would be frowned upon/illegal in the UK but i still feel that i can have more strength and safety than someone putting a baby seat in an old series landrover with some iffy construction/seatbelts/mechanics etc

sorry for not updating earlier and thanks for the replies so far. Ok had a trusted indie have a drive of the landy end of last week and he has diagnosed a worn layshaft/bearing in the gearbox and also the engine mounts have sagged badly ( i was only looking for splits!) and transmitting lots of vibration . He has advised me to change to MTF oil in the gearbox as he feels the ATF is too thin for it (remember i am in South Africa so its a bit warmer down here anyway with regards to viscosity) I can only easily find Britpart or Allmakes mounts (at a tenth the cost of genuines !!) and unfortunately have been given another pair of the Britpart ones for the engine mounts so will give them a try and see what the vibration is like after i have installed them and if they dont help i am going to go to my local rubber manufacturer and see if they can match some thing up that may be better I must say that the vibration has softened quite a bit since the Britpart transfer box mounts were installed 10 days ago will update when engine mounts are installed to see if anything has improved

Any of the gearbox experts give me some advice on a LT 77s gearbox I have in my defender 200tdi 1993 I have difficulty being sure that when stopped I am engaging 1st and not in fact taking the gearstick further over to the left and actually engaging Reverse which on a few occasions has resulted in a few embarrising seconds at traffic light Also when moving going from 1st to 2nd I have to not go straight down but in fact make an exaggerated dog leg to the left (as if I am going below reverse gear) otherwise i am forever getting 3rd if trying to go straight down Gears all engage ok and not any crunching or whinning I am use to driving a series 3 with a very iffy box so I am more than use to a poor gearbox but do know that people have said the LT77 is a bit of a rough box so not sure how smooth and precise it should be .Compared too the old series 3 the gearbox is very nice Is it an easy fix i am hoping something with the selectors but tips or info most gratefully accepted.

thanks for both replys and i am tending to go for both option.I did think that they may settle a bit ,i will try driving for a bit then see if i can re tighten,if that dont work i guess its all out and in with the genuines

This forum seems to be seeing me more than my home at the moment, but anyway here goes with another problem needing some of the boffins help Defender 200tdi 1993 lwb Had it for about 6 months and gradually working thru the problems Always felt the engine seemed to vibrate more than normal especially around the turbo area –the broken heat shield visually vibrates a good 0.5 inches but I realise these engines are more rough than other engines but still feel its more than other 200tdi I have seen? The engine mounts seem fine and cant see any splits. Gearbox mounts (actually on transfer box)the drivers side had no nut on the centre stud and the thread was knackered so replaced it yesterday with a new Britpart ANR1808-looks same size as mount that was removed. After I did that side I started and it felt terrible much worse than before I replaced it. Vibrations was travelling right through the steering column whilst stationary on idle. if I put a little bit more revs its better but still did not seem right and I don’t feel my idle is too low. It felt like an exhaust pipe vibration . This morning took a look again at the transfer box passenger side mount and saw that it had in fact been split before and also a bolt was missing on the exhaust hanging /transfer box fixing which I thought would be the vibration source Though that must be the problem so replaced with a new Britpart ANR1808 and vehicle still has a worse vibration on tickover than it has had before any of the 2 mounts were replaced I only really feel it bad when the car is at tickover and does not happen (cant feel it)when moving so not the props which I also took off when doing the first mount so I could inspect the drum I even rocked the car about before I tightened the centre studs on the new mounts to try and make sure it was settled in a natural setting/unstressed state Is there something I have done wrong on installation or are the mounts wrong or can I put it down to the blue box

ok .Just that mine looks different to that with no weld up by the flange

Hi all thanks for the input and good info.I did manage to get the new balls on the other day but just thought how stupid it was that for the sake of an extra 5mm thread it would have been an absolute doodle..I wish i had the common sense solution that Snagger had and used the old springs but that light bulb moment never arrived for me unfotunatley

Thats a great bit of info Gremlin and especially the picture showing the placement of the probe. I am very very tempted to drill in situ (madman who sell the system also recommend to do it with the engine on tickover )but think i will attempt to take the whole manifold inc turbo off at least then I can get my nice old 1940`s cast iron Walker Turner pillar drill on it.It also allows me to inspect a bit Glad to hear that you had no problems with metal thickness and tapping into manifold as dont want to have to go with welding a stubb on as that could also lead to a cracked manifold if the the correct preheat/post heat sequence is used. Can i also ask who welded up your downpipe (the flange at the top)or is it an off the shelf item like that?

Is it me or are these land rover jobs infuriatingly complicated and designed to ruin a good weekend. Today I decided to replaced the brass balls and the pins in the rear safari door .Thought it would be a simple 2 minute job . Purchased 'Allmakes' pin ,spring and ball sets but spent nearly an hour trying to get the nut on the bottom of the pin /bolt. They have made the bolts so short that when you put the spring on plus the lock tab, the pressure you have to exert on the spring to compress it to get the nut on just totally defeated me for ages. The material which its made from is also like cheese and I could virtually strip a thread on the pins by putting on the nut by hand pressure alone . Is it me or are they just trying to save costs by slimming the pin length down or was I doing something wrong? Any reason for me not to go and by a stainless bolt & washer and nyloc nut and use the same springs and brass balls-must be a better solution to the original Also can anyone confirm that the rear safari door is only aligned with the actual hinge bracketry onto the door and rear side rather than adjusting the above brass ball/spring pin contraption?? If so how (far) do you adjust the above spring/pin arangement and for what reason Last gripe is the front door which i had had only 2 of the 4 bolts into the bulkhead side of the hinges there .So like the above thought it would be a quick job to put 2 new bolts and 'j clips' into the top and bottom hinge . Got the 2 holding bolts undone but what a crazy time getting the new "j clips' into position ,they first of all would not accept the the brand new accompanying bolt and had to have the threads properly threaded so the bolt went in easier ,but that was only half the problem as the 'J clips were so springy that as soon as the bolt got to the nut it would just push the clip nut further away and not allow the bolt to get started in the thread. Got that all done, but hey i am wacked out now and the trouble is i have to do it all again in a week or so`s time as i have some new replacements that i am sending of to get powder coated and replace door bolts with some ordered stainless fixings