JEP

Sorry, that link didn't work on Another computer Here it is: http://picasaweb.google.com/rangeroverjep/GaragetTomgangsjusterare2009

Little late but i used the old choke wire and did a valve. I use a 14cux efi engine in my old 1973 Range Rover. https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewer#album/rangeroverjep/5395765548291242929

Hi, Where did you get the dizzy replacement? I want to save my working dizzy. Thanks

hello. You need to change the electrical board with all the window switches in the center console or look for bad connections on it. this board has IC circuits and talk digitally to the BECM under the right seat. If this board goes faulty you get exactly this problem. I have changed this two times on my P38 (1997 DSE). Look on Ebay, but be sure to get a working one as I first bought one bad and that did the fault finding a lot harder... :-)

That should be the box in the engine compartment beside the compressor and valve block? I should take a look at that! Thank you.

Hi! I have a RR P38 DSE -97 where the EAS system have developed a glitch or intermittent fault. It started one day displaying EAS FAULT SLOW MAX 35MPH. After a restart it was all fine again for a couple of weeks. It then came back and at the end it was nearly every day. One time the display message and hegiht indicator lamps did all shimmer 3-4 times / second. Now the fault appears every time ignition is turned on. Earlier (when fault did'nt show every day) I read fault codes with my Rovacom Faultmate. It reported about every possible fault the EAS ECU can show. Things like: Faulty compressor, valves stuck open or closed, all height sensors out of range (except right front). It also belives the vehicle is moving at a speed of around 70mph (constantly changing) when standing still. I saved all faults and cleared them to later see which fault appeard first. Another day I tried to read fault again but wasn't able to communicate with the EAS ECU. It looks like I can't communicate with the EAS ECU when the fault is showing up. I changed the EAS ECU and timer relay for known working ones to no success. Still no communication. One day when I used the car with the fault apparent I hit a hole in the road and it beeped and the fault went away for a few seconds and then came back. There seems to be a bad connection somewhere. I've measured between EAS ECU connector and BECM connector, all nine(according to RAVE) earth/ground connections without finding something bad. Maybe it's a loose soldering in the BECM-connector? It's been two years since all air springs and height sensors was changed for new ones. Compressor was rebuilt a year ago. Has anyone had a similar fault they managed to solve? Regards John-Erik

Be sure to check the relays again, especially the fuel relay. It needs to be of correct type as it also supply 12V to the oxygen sensors when fuel pump is running. Wrong type can supply fuel pump with 12V but NOT the oxygen sensors and vice versa. This happend to my 1990 RR 3.9 Hotwire. I replaced the Bosch fuel pump relay with a Lucas relay. Fuel pump did run. Found out that the oxygen sensors had 12V only when fuel pump did NOT run. 0V when pump ran. ECU goes in limp home mode = running very rich. Good luck! John-Erik Sweden

Nice work! I went re-drilling holes in the swivel housings. The spring seats also had to be cut and welded for the correct angle. pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/rangeroverjep/...getFramaxel2009 (with swedish text, sorry) Regards John-Erik Sweden

That engine looks like my RR 1973 8.25:1CR engine. Valve covers, ignition leads the same color(hopefully they have been swapped sometime...), distributor, alternator (Lucas 18ACR?). The cap on the valvecover seems to be from a later engine though. The earlier was grey in color i think. Also no bracket/mounting plate for power assisted steering pump that became standard around 1974 on RR. Use a small mirror to look around the engine for the engine number. Good luck!

Thank you for an comprehensive answer! Regards JEP

Hello, I've read about many 3.9, 4.0 and 4.6 engines that has the diagnose of a sunken cylinder liner. How can they sink when the liners are pressed down to stops in the cylinder block? When cylinder heads clamping the liners they should not be able to move in any direction? Or do they shrink? When they sink, how much will be enough to get compression out in the water? Regards

I have exactly the same noise in my P38 DSE 1997 automatic. Only when engine is cold and slightly rev'ed. Noise gets worse (earlier in the rev's) the colder it is outside. Haven't found what can make this noise.

Hello, I got them at Devon4x4 (http://devon4x4.co.uk/). They also had them in stock. Good luck!

:-) I'm doing a renovation on it now and yesterday I got a nice package from Ashcroft with new halfshafts, ARB's front and rear, 4.11-1 CWP and a few more things. I will for sure keep the good old patina on it, but try to improve things under the shell.

This is my 1973 2 door Range Rover V8. Now with a 3.9 EFI under the bonnet.

I just got my trailing arms from them. They look OK but the "20mm angle" isn't welded at many places. After reading this I take no chance and am going to "plug weld" them as someone here said and also add a few more weldings on the "20mm angle".

I have placed a new order at paddockspares that includes standard swivell housings. Weld holes and drill new ones. Will use the "foot/flange" of and old swivel housing to match upp the correct bolt pattern and rotate it 3 degree's. :-)

That's the way I'm going as I will crank my stock radius arms and in some way get caster corrected swivel housings. It looks although that I have to do it myself.

Thank you. I have sent them an email. I need them to correct the castor angle. If I buy new radius arms they will create a steaper angle on my front propshaft. Regards John-Erik Sweden

The Caster correction balls is no longer available from Paddock spares. I just ordered a pair today and they phoned me saying that they are no longer available. I asked why, but they "didn't knew"... Anyone that has a pair for sale or know anybody else that is selling caster correction balls? Maybe someone has done it yourself?