PaulN

Ours is a 300tdi 90 on with solid discs all round and an auto - stops well. Can lock up in the wet and greasy! Only thing needed is rather more servo assistance than the original servo and master - one of my upgrades to do. You'll use the auto box down to 3 and 2 for extra braking when needed anyway. Save your money for fully operable calipers and quality discs and pads - more than good enough! IMO.

Cool! DC was it pre-cut or did you have to do it? Fits well so is it pretty heavy in weight that material. Interested.....

Forgive me but stunned that you're not satisfied as it is - looks superb! Leather stitched, full compliment switches, a/c, sat, clean, good condition! It's a 100 times better than mine!

Now I like that A LOT! and welcome to the Forum btw - I'm sure you'll get some Expert help soon.....

That is a nice interesting finish!

Neat!

Sounds like solenoid is live but either not throwing gear (sticky) or battery not man enough (now flattened) In those temperatures everything is stiffer and slower and so harder on any good battery..... How old is battery - 10years? Consider size amp hours and CCAs.....

That's terrible and indefensible damage. As said above don't touch - insist on replacement from seller by presenting these photos as evidence! Will be worth the wait in the end.

Going by the write up on Ashcroft's site they are a must (if you can afford it) especially on snow or greasy mud field. I am interested in the grown up replies that you get so will be watching with interest - I'd love to get one into the TB as a higher priority b4 lockers imo. As to the other 'issue' written into your post I'd be interested in what size tyres you are running. I am saving to do the exact opposite with my TB. I have the Disco TB 1.22 in my 300tdi auto 90 and want to go 22D 4.10 because of a lack of lock up until 54mph (auto) and running out of puff on long inclines (like you) on 85 profiles - both of which are bit naff on a long journey. Advised on here that your type TB would be better suited..... I'm not advising - simply adding to the mix of considerations before expensive decisions are made!

My tokens are on the switch! B4 i replaced mine every time the lights were put on full beam the horn sounded no problems since....

Added to above - If it's anything like mine you'll have more than one fuse for front and or left and right lights. I'd remove all lighting fuses and check one circuit at a time. Even to removing bulbs and throwing switch to confirm it is or is not cables.

Exactly the same as mine REb. Had it on the 300 Disco and now this 300 Def. It's a dry continuous 'whirble' following the increase in revs. If you were driving the truck for the first time you wouldn't notice it but it get more and more noticable and one relaxes into the driving for that truck - right? It's most noticeable at the first part of the acceleration like mine I'd guess. Blasted annoying too but all appears to be normal. Don't know what it actually is but It's probably down to high mileage wear somewhere so a refurb, if you can afford it, would be a good start. I too have been thinking of a sound absorbing bonnet of sorts (and for my noisy induction Disco air box) but that's another matter - especially nothing is really wrong!

Thanks Ian. I think I'll follow up on that and proliferate your idea to the inside of 'Wolfie' .....

Cool..... As a 110 is longer I guess you'd have more than one strip? Any links to these warm whites?

Nice job! Also nice to see that you have managed to source 'warm white' in an LED too. Only personal but I don't think old classic and LED mix at all well but LED is soooo much more efficient - as you have shown is best of both. Are they acceptably water proof? Like it and the drawer rubber topped drawer box too.

Have the outlet switched and fused from the cab so as to isolate when wet/wading - switch it on when you need it?

Considering the high prices being asked for some of the Sound Proofing Solutions that are out there for sale the OPs question is a good one. I'd like to read some good ideas coming back too. Having owned 3 Disco 1's I know the previous comments are quite right and sometimes I wish I hadn't changed to a Def for a lot of reasons but hey when I look back at 'Wolfie' (Roll cage and rag top) and drive it - well - it's a bit of a love hate thing really! and that's wot I got - plus others think it's a great looking truck too. I'm still battling with the sound thing too…..can't come up with cheapo sources but if I say what I've done so far then someone may well pop in with a good source material for doing the same. So if it helps you at all so far I've done is to use thick cow stall or horse box rubber for all the flat working surfaces in the back. Good work surface and a real noise deadener. Every flat panel has had the cheapest self adhesive anti drumming black stuff put on. As well as that I bought a single big sheet of closed cell foam and cut it to shape for all over the seat box (under seats too) and under the bonnet. Carpet tile squares are good to absorb air born vibes too so I have cut and stuck these on my fitted tool boxes. The tilt when driving with the back rolled up is surprisingly much less noisy than when it is down - lets the noise out I suppose !! Cleaned and spray under sealed the wheel arches with German rubberised underseal stuff to deaden and protect. There is also a proper fitted floor mat system (Wright Off Road - not cheap) and............. It's still noisy! Don't get me wrong it is a lot better than it was but there is still a lot of engine noise cummin in. The engine, induction (hell of a thrum from here as it is a disco one), viscous fan and injection pump on my 300 all generate quite a din (not forgetting the exhaust but that's more outside) compared to my D1 300's. So comparing to a Disco where there is more space and stuffing between you and the noise - I guess that it what has to replicated. I'm still going to have to insulate doors (when they get refurbed) and then to sound proof behind the dash (with eggbox foamy stuff I'm thinking) and then 'tother side of bulkhead in engine bay too….. I'm thinking engine blanket and/or individual DIY covers for the bits mentioned above oh and an electric fan so it only works and makes a noise when needed! Then there's better AT tyres rather than MTs but that not a problem of noise for me..... and so it goes on….. (Oh! and maybe go back to a V8 as that's a nice noise!! )

....and what was the comparable difference to revs, noise and speed when either had achieved lock up on good road?

A much appreciated correction to my poor references Mickey. I am glad of the advice from all above. I have a 28D fitted at the mo and will be searching out a 22D (according to the Ashcroft variants list). I must say throughout all the searching on-line I still see guys changing their Defenders to 1.211 even now - guess the must have the smaller Disco wheels. Anyway I know what I have to do - looking fwd to it.

Many thanks - off to hunt a 4.10

Thanks for everyone's input here. Mickey: I have used the Ash calculator and saved screen shots of each tyre size against each box (28D & 22D) then changed them around and - well - I can't work it out. Revs change but some ratios don't! Never mind though I can now see you guys are right that the issue is either to change to disco tyre sizes (not doing) or to change the diff back to a Def 4.10 which we will have to do. It was just that we used a Disco TB to reduce revs and noise and achieve higher speed for a more pleasurable higher open road drive. I cruise at 70/75. Am I going to lose that to achieve a lower lock up? " Changing back to 1.4:1 completely transformed the drive. " I am keen to know how bad was the high revving, the noise and top speed loss?

aha! Got it!

Just loosened off KD cable completely - no difference to Lock Up. Wouldn't altering diff ratios would affect all speeds and gears and I'm only keen on a lower speed lock up in top - I'm happy with everything else. With 4.10 TB revs will be too high for main road wouldn't they? Compared to a 1.222.... Assuming the engine performance is fettled - would a LT230 with 1:1.003 lock up earlier - not withstanding all the other longer cog effects?

Thanks - I will check the KD cable to make sure I have it nice and slack - iirc it's on the last hole I like the relaxed Disco set up and the longer final drive and so top speed and noise reduction. Thought maybe a Classic RR T/Box might be ever so slightly different? or overhaul with a small change of final drive? I have read that there may be a G/Box adjustment but that's a bit beyond me..... Even 50 would be better...... If all else fails I can use the disco sized tyres then but she'll look a bit naf.....

HI Guys - I have a Def 90 with a D1 300tdi engine, g/box and T/Box and the combination works really well - except that is for the lock up speed. Really wearing where we live as often we hardly ever get to lock up! It locks at around 54mph which is naf when following a lorries at 56 or most journeys as my truck is forever bobbing in and out of top. Some roads we don't get lock up for 10's of miles!! I've read many a thread and the it is clear that we have used the wrong T/Box in that we stayed with the combo from the D1 but I cannot find how to remedy the issue..... In what to change to make her pop up like a Disco? Now in both my auto 300 D1's lock up was lovely at around 48 - 50 so I cannot understand why it's not the same except maybe the tyres are now 235/85/16 whereas Disco's were 70's profile has a bit to do with it? I do want to keep stock Defender tyres at 235. Will a change of T/box do it? Anyone advise please?