Jump to content

PaulN

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Posts

    394
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by PaulN

  1. OK it's yours! I'll be get a price to send in the next few days. I'd better PM you for an address....
  2. Whats in the little plastic bag, if it's important please include it. Its got 2 ring clamps for around one of the shifters and a braket that fits under front consol - when took apart stuck it all together. Doesn't weigh much so I'll put it in. If it's all that rare out there you sure you don't want shaped accoustic foam? I'll bag it and be in touch.....
  3. Saw your post this morning and popped out to the barn and found this.... Not sure if this is what you're after Boydie? It's off 1998 R380. If it is and in a state you can work with all well and good - if not no worries! You're welcome to it for the cost of posting - not sent to Aus before!
  4. Hi Chris, Took these today - not sure if they'll suffice??.......
  5. The screw in locking flywheel pin as used for the manual 300tdi fits the auto perfectly well as described above - ask me how I know!! - HTH
  6. I' no expert but I hadan after market exhaust put on my truck a while back and I took the truck back cis I thought mine was blowing - exactly as you said! Had it checked over and all was except it sounded as annoying as you for the next couple of years when I had to get a new one. When it was fitted I noticed that the centre box was fatter in dia. And ' bliss - no more noise. So maybe there is more thsn one pattern for the 300tdi?? All I know is I shallbe looking out for this in the future and may help your cause.... Noisey, throaty exhaust is okay when you want it..... HTH
  7. Sorry - been away....Thanks for the offer Vulcan - is it a flanged nut then? I wish I could remember.... Ahh! found some pics on the net inside the timing case on a 300tdi. Seems it's a simple hex nut and washer so I should be able to source that thanks - I'll measure spindle M14?) and go from there. Thanks all.
  8. Yeah thanks Red - I've got dial gauge ready and I've managed to get the flange , the 3 x 10mm flange head bolts and I'm looking fwd to having a play to set the timing for non egr. When i'm done I still haven't got the larger centre nut for the shaft end!!
  9. Got another Injection pump now for our Defo 90 300tdi, away for refurb, but it hasn’t got a central nut on the centre spindle as viewed from the front! Does anyone know whether it is a flanged nut, whether it has a washer and what size please? I reckon the thread measures 13mm? Putting on a manual FIP and taking off the EDC one so this truck will have the barest electrickery but neither has this blasted nut - pretty crucial!!
  10. Yes all 3 the same behind manifold - all in a line - approx 53mm Dia. as measured in rubbish light. There's also one on the block, rear of engine by flywheel of that size, one just above that one head at approx 34mm and one on engine block front just above timing case/cover behind water pump and steering pump bracket. Someone else might know exact sizes and of others.... HTH.
  11. In addition I'd shine a torch into the inlet manifold to see how much tar and treacle there has been built up from the egr system. I've seen some with next tno airway at all. If the egr is still on remove it asap after a good cleanup of induction path especially inlet manifold, pipes and I/C. As has been inferred there has to be a blockage somewhere.....hth
  12. Hate the idea of DPFs as they stand - the device or truck defining when, how often or how long I should run my truck ((No short runs!) in order that the DPF gets to regenerate) otherwise it'll clog up and cost hundreds to replace or no MOT or a fine if you've not got one cos I've taken it out and retuned for greater effect and efficiency - I should coco....
  13. Got a Disco 300 tdi auto box combo to go into the defender 90 only it's an EDC. Want to go manual throttle so can anyone suggest which Injector pump would suit please? Is it the ERR 6700? or ERR 4046?? Have read so much conflicting info I'm confused!
  14. At that speed and gradient you'll be in 1 anyway - but to lock it there yes - I sometimes shift to 3, 2, 1 for engine breaking to a junction down a steep gradient as well......
  15. Mine is a bit more sluggish than when warm - I just give more welly no probs - but you can always use lo range!
  16. Sounds like the mechanicals check out so if she ticks over forever ok - check water in sedimenter, fuel filter or lines? Clogged air filter?
  17. Not something I've done mself yet but will have to at some point so I saved a link to read up on when the time does come - thanks to 'DiscoStu' - this may help you too? Linky
  18. Couple of starters - see if the fuel lift pump is working buy pulling a pipe and cranking - then look at sedimenter at back of vehicle to ensure its not leaking or full of water....
  19. Indicators still going throughout....
  20. Your competancy is way beyond my 'league' so I can't help but have been reading with interest. Glad you are sorted - though what a trial. At least you now know what is defo okay!! My question would be was it through a slip up in timing belt fitment or how did it happen?
  21. Yep! you can get each side separately... See (linky) This one new and bit pricey - just used to illustrate!
  22. Point well made and thank you 'NegevLandRover '. Boy it must be hotout there! Makes my concerns fade..... Thanks for the link 'Bowie69' neat - I will seriously consider fitting something to show what's actually going on in terms of temperature. Anyone had experience of or would also like to comment on the notes and queries?
  23. Hi Guys, Hope you may have a suggestion for this little concern please.... 'Mumf' our 1994 D1 (auto) 300 has never over heated and her cooling system has been bled properly by me (cabin heater works at about 3 miles) but she does seem to smell like she's running a little on the hot side when hammered for long spells. Still never over heats even in the recent hot weather (got to have a good memory for that!) with cabin heating off. (It's a shame there no easy replacement for the silly standard VDO guage that is not reflective of conditions by sensible increments) Thing is that the header tank is one of those 'blingy' Alisport ones and it never has more than about 3mm water in there when cold but fuller when hot (Maybe it sits higher??). From start up the water is flowing through the self bleed branched return pipe to header and the header gets very, very hot and you think it's going to boil. The stat opens up and the top and bottom main rad pipes get hot but never as hot as the header tank. That's how it feels anyway. Just wondering if this self bleed pipe thingy could be blocked on its other branch or the header tank cap may be fubar'd or not able to seal against this blingy header. Dunno. My old 96 disco had a standard plastic header and was always around half full of fluid and never ran this (apparently) hot even when towing diggers up hill!! I'm not sure if water is dispelled after running hard but I never seem to get a zizz of pressure or steam when I catiously release header cap with rag in hand. Is it normal for a fast flow via this self bleed return? - quite a significant flow when revved before the stat opens. Is it normal for header to be that hot? Anyone else had experience of this or of a blingy header? Everything seems iin order but yu know....
  24. Further to ther above....Use a hole punch (like a belt or boot lace hole) and put a hole in the grommet cap at the back. If you're worried about water ingress then weld/glue a small length of rubber fuel/vac pipe and set it downwards. The lamp interior needs to breathe and evacuate moisture when its warm other wise it will always re-condense when case or glass gets cold. HTH.
  25. I'm not an expert but my thinking would be to check earth points as high resistance here can cause voltage drops. I would check behind glove box and determin if you have the earlier vehicle relays (to check in and out volts) or a later ecu and read these..... Found these useful: linky1 linky2 HTH....Hopefully someone more knowledgable will pop up soon
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy