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PaulN

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by PaulN

  1. Don't know myself but.....Digital Diesel Shut-off valve ??? Read a thread on it it here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/disco-300tdi-fuel-injection-pump-not-delivering-65734.html HTH
  2. Thank you for your reply Chris - won't be needing that fella then!
  3. Had to remove pretty well everything from above the inner offside front wing for welding to tie it all back. There's a bucket load of after market stuff and wires that all needed marking up and it's all gone well and is now back and working but for this fella. Anyone any idea what it's for - what it does? It comes out of the bulkhead corner in the main fat loom from the cockpit, splitting out of that loom under the brake servo - as you can see a standard LR type connector in blue but I cannot remember this cable or can't find anywhere for it to go. Got a mental blank as I don't even remember taking this one off. I've not taken the truck for a run yet but the only prob I have is the infernal SRS light on the dash and I'm petty sure that's not related as it's not part of the 'yellow loom' and it was me who unwittingly at the time didn't plug the SRS fron crash sensor back in before refitting the battery - ho hum!
  4. Could well be an airlock. We had real trouble on our current Disco but no trouble on the old one but why no idea they looked the same. Why an engine design includes a header tank that is on a level with or below some of the heater cooling pipework and bleed points is beyond me. We had to take of the header tank and support it higher than highest pipes - the ones at the back of rocker cover. We pushed water into heater matrix by garden hose by removing hose to rear of block and watch for water to come out of metal pipe fore return at front of head and then to swiftly refit. Two things you then know - flow through heater matrix and very little air in that part of circuit. Makes sure elevated header tank has strong antifreeze mix and is full (get someone to hold) and start engine and blast and blip revs. When engine is cold make sure that there is a return/bleed turbulence in header tank via 'Y' bleed return pipes that go into base of header. Run up speed on engine and blast water around whilst occaisionaly looseneing first rad bleed plug and then stat bleed plug to lose air as it comes round. Hopefull most that's left will end up in header to be replaced by fluid. We even had to loosen the heater matrix return pipe from head to allow air to purge by just slipping pipe off 'till water flowed without hissing. I'd say it's best to have a helper and to also park truck on an angle (block or uneven ground) so that the front and header tank side is higher than engine. Remove fan before you start to help warm up and do under cover if you are able (with plenty ventilation) to aid warm up. You wil soon see if an airlock was the problem for a cold heater and if the matrix is working as the flo and return pipes will feel diff temps and the interior will be warm but in this weater use slow speed fan to remove cooling effect of low air temperature!! When stat opens (make sure correct spec stat) slow to tick over it should self bleed couple with a tentative slight openeing over bleed bungs (only if brass tho) Check strength of a/freeze. That's wot we did anyway - HTH a bit!
  5. Fascinating - keep it coming Boydie!
  6. PaulN

    No Puff

    Nicely diagnosed and sorted Boydie and ouch 46.8 degrees!
  7. Ditto! Makes a diiference you can both hear and feel too!
  8. Probably be shot down by a tecnically orientated grown up but IMO it's Perfect! Especially the thicker oil too. The lower viscosity synthetics are excellent but too thin imo for our older and poss worn 'gines and mineral is cheaper too. Semi synths are a rip off... Mineral is what I use but I do always change at 5-6,000 intervals hth
  9. Ah! thank you Gents - Don't appear to have it - guess what my next jobby is....
  10. I agree - good pics! Had to fight the radio fitment in ours and there pretty well nothing left of where it fits to hang onto - bits broken here and there. A previous someone was very heavy handed as it seems like there's loads of bits broken heater control and dash fixings to contend with at some futiure date!! You idea may well come in very handy - thanks for posting!
  11. Hi Guys, Searched through a number of threads but cannot find if a tow bar loom is fited as standard to all D1's? I have aquired a new (older!!!) Disco (auto) but it doesn't have a tow bar - can't see any connector on off side anywhere yet though the dark nights don't help! Anyone know If the dash trailer light does not momentarily come on like it does on our '96 disco (with nothing hitch to tow bar) then does this suggest no loom to an control unit somewhere? I appreciate one could wire to rear lights but would like to do it properly - if there's no loom is it difficult to wire up from the front? Paul.
  12. See what you mean!! Seems to catch up after the throttle is released and then something catches up or gets knocked out of he way - untill the end of the clip where it appears athe offending item isn't out of the way and continues to knock. Doesn't seem to effect engine running, reving or performance when it occurs though... Until I replayed the vid thought it might be the crank pulley wobbling when the belt goes slck again after engine back to idle? They do crack away - as you say it was different when aux belt was off... Appreciate it is quite a heavy sound... Sounds almost ancilliary though... Can you pinpoint the area coming from? Gawd - got a few more thoughts but I'd be guessing - hope someone can help identify it for you soon ATB, Paul.
  13. Starters...until a grown up comes along I'd say it's worth a look at the crank pulley to see if it is slightly buckled on the inside edge and knocking on the block. There is very little clearance and it is hard to see the back edge rim of pulley (from underneath) but easily bent - especially if there is a bit of play....?
  14. You could clean it out! Mines a 300 1996 and was surprised at how clean it was with only slight black misting at entry. In the end I favoured the Brunel Performance Intercooler as it fits straight in where the old one came out with absolutely no mods and makes use of the directional airflow that's already there. I didn't favour the interuption of air flow to engine rad with a close proximity full width intercooler. Quite liked the idea that there is no obvious appearance of a truck 'performance modification' either! Not cheap but certainly make a big difference! Will do for you and a pump tweak! HTH InfoLinky
  15. 2 wheel drive for the oriental market!
  16. egr valve stuck open maybe or intercooler/turbo hoses collapsing? Water in fuel tank or sedimenter?
  17. Wow! Thanks for sharing! Perhaps he'd swap for my 5 year newer Disco!! I don't mind a bit of cash to make up the diffo!!
  18. Yep - I was thinking about a cheapo off the blag but then not sure how or where to get a fixed extension fited and then how to fasten to pump without proper union - magnets maybe or clamp? Nothing special on the genuine one but just has all the bits to work (ie) extension at correct length and threaded union that's right for the Bosch pump. Basically I suppose you just have to fix the guage in the right place so it can't move (with extension rod into pump running on cam) then (with engine pinned up) turn dial guage to 1.4, unpin pump and rotate to 1.54. Could also start at zero at bottom of cam plate with engine at TDC then rotate to 1.54.
  19. Fair enough - Except that a 0.5mm to 1mm movement to adv is the only thing that stopped billowing white smoke for me! How close that is in relation to 1.54 from 1.4 I don't know but clearly, it does something..... I do know that timed on pins it is 1.4 having checked it. Now I'd like to get a Dial Guage of my own so I can check and report what sort of movement of the FIP that is. Trouble is I can only find one that works, complete with unions and extension rod, in a set for mega bucks! Just wondered why it's necessary to adjust for EGR or No EGR that's all....guess we'll never know...
  20. Oh! You guys reminded me - No Cat and no EGR!
  21. Best I've ever got is 31 mpg on a run though day to day I get 27-29 (Though I don't potter!!!) It's a 300 tdi 88,000 miles, standard ht with HD springs and Goodrich AT's. When heavy towing with twin axle Ifor Williams it's down to 21 - 23. HTH
  22. That's the one I'm getting for the ol' Disco too!
  23. Or.... given the vast number of references to, recommendations through and improvements by removing egr mechanism and fitting a bypass - and the number of guys doing it - why can one find no mention of resetting the fuel timing when one does the 'mod'?
  24. Maybe because with no egr the air entering chamber is already hotter than it would be with egr whereupon it lowers the combustion temperatures to reduce Nox emissions?
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