ELVIS

Have recently fettled my 110 and 130 heaters. Strip heater box, new matric, new OE stat, flush/back flush rad, expansion tank, every hose you can disconnect and get to, head, heater hoses etc. You will be amazed at the amount of crud that comes out. Makse sure resistor pack in fan is working ok and seals etc are good. Improved both by massively noticeable amount. Took couple fo hours tops.

I paid £5.3 for a 97 300 tdi, ex utility company with ali canopy and twin opening doors on rear. Up and together with good doors and bulkhead.

Cheers (again) chaps! Bought one in the end! '97 300 tdi. Pretty up and together and not needing anything major. Did have a set of 265/75 MTs on it but just ditched them for wolf wheels and 238/85s. SSSSSSSOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much quieter and lighter on the steering. It was a very dark grey originally before it was resprayed. Am desperately scratching my head to remember who used that colour? Was it rail tracks old livery colours? If i contact SV and give them the contract number off plate/number plate can they tell me original spec and whom it was supllied to?

Chaps/chapess' Just bought a 130 and am over the moon with it. Bought it with a known 'fault' and just wanted some pointers. The seller is/was totally honest and sold it as having a worn diff. When you pull away it has that common 'clonk' type noise that is consistent with worn input shaft from gearbox (R380 with 190k on, not sure if its original box or not). The question is, what is the best test to find out whether the wear is in the diffs or box? I am gueeing jacking it up and removing props and turn by hand maybe?

Hi again1 Firstly apologise to anyone if they thought i was trying to get a free plug in for the business, i wasnt (honest) HOWEVER always willing to help anyone from the forum out with free advice over a brew in the unit, not a problem! Righto................... If its already in military type finish and you want to tart it up a bit, my opinion? DONT go for a colour change, it looks shockingly bad even on a tatty old car (no offence meant!) when sills/shuts/under bonnet/interior doesnt match. Just do the whole lot in NATO green as i think oyu have said to lose the black. As has been said, matt holds oil/grease/muck/poo and i a monkey to keep clean. Satin is easier to keep clean as traps less muck. I have used fascinating finishes off ebay but plenty who mix it. As previous if you buy from surplus make sure IT IS NOT IRR PAINT, it will make you ill if you get it wrong. Right, to do it properly but with a good result and for sensible money? As with any paint job , finish will be as good as the prep. wash it, take it to 50p machine and give it a bloody good clean/power wash. STRIP!! take off doors, bonnet , arches , bumpers , lights,door rubbers. strip doors, take off handles , take off door tops, take off any chequer plate. You get the idea. Less is more! You now want to flat it back (sand it down). Use 400, go to screwfix and get a cheap electric random orbital sander or B+Q own brand range. Do all the panels , everything in 400. Do anything fiddly/returds/edges by hand. If anything is flakey or looks like its falling off , use 240 or even 180 on it and take all loose off. You should now have a completely flatted (sanded) body. Dont worry about filling/dent removal - its a landy!! You might have gone thr to bare metal in places , dont worry, buy a rattle can of etch primer and spary any exposed metal. DONT flood the exposed metal as if you are trying to paint it- you only have to put a mist on it for it to work. You now need to give the body a good clean. Use panel wipe/ panel degreaser DONT use thinners it might lift paint (thinners isnt designer for cleaning bodies). Get some blue roll from motor factors and just wipe it all down. Now the best bit.................... nearly ............ Mask it up/bag it up. You will get paint in places you dont mean to especially if doing it by hand. paper masking tape and paper , cover over door openings, engine bay, use tape very carefully to cover light base edges (you have removed the rear lenses already havent you?)that sort of thing. ANYTHING you dont want painted, tape or bag(cover in plastic) To do the front screen get a few meters of electrical wire and lift the rubber and put the wire underneath to hold it off the body, tape the rubber to mask it, you can now paint under rubber by hand without the rubber looking like a half painted dogs dinner. One last wipe over, nearly there................. get you paint, mix it up with 10% thinner/white spirit (whatever manufacturer recommends) and start painting!!! Use a 1" brush to do shuts and edges, do this first then you can roll over the brush strokes(or get as close as possible to lose brush strokes) .use 4" gloss rollers to do panels afterwards, it wont take long. repeat and give it two coats. materials and any cheaperalternatives? Shop around for paint and chaps on here will point you in direction of preferred sellers/quality. 1" brushes - dont skimp - when the brush molts you will wish you paid an extra £1 - B+Q premium range will do it. Masking tape- motor factors/ebay - B+Q etc will fleece you for single rolls. Buy a couple rolls of 1" and a couple of 2" 4" gloss rollers - ebay own brand is cheap as chips (foam ones) or ebay you can get packs of ten quite cheaply. Paper- you can get proper rolls of masking paper from paint factors - dont bother,they wont sell rolls samll enough for what you need- beg steal and borrow newspapers from neighbours etc Bagging- plastic to mask it - wont need it if you are rollering it TBH. If you need to cover seats etc just use black bags/cheao b+q plastic paint sheet thingies. Panel wipe/degreser - local body shop factors, 1 litre will do paper towel- Factors will sell you a pack of 6 blue garage rolls for less than £15, if you are handy with a set of spanners buy one of these - helluva lot cheaper than kitchen roll from supermarket. Dont worry about using tack cloth - its a landy FFS lol Think thats it. Might have missed something out, will re read it in a mo. Should be able to do all of the above in a long weekend (very long! haha) PM me if you need any pointers. most of all ENJOY!! If you decide to spray remember it WILL go everywhere and you will need a big enough space to get around the vehicle. You will also need to make sure compressor/gun etc are compatable ie compressor makes enough air for the gun.

How long is a piece of string? Me and me oppo run a bodyshop, YOU have to consider to what standard you want it done to Stripped hood/doors/panels/seatbox gone by pros in a booth with any grot in bulkhead/dorrs addressed or just a cheap tart up? Will cost anything between cost of 5l of paint and £ks!!! If its just a 'freshen up' and you are on a budget and you use it for work/laning jsut strip doors/lights/bumpers and flat with 400 and roller it with 5l of NATO green(DONT use surplus stuff if its IRR) and mix 10/20% white spirit/thinners. If you are in South Devon and want a chat/price drop me a line.

cross drilled/grooved discs kill break pads at a lot quicker rate over OE

One of the army snow covers maybe?

Will it proper do my head in? I know the 110 is a PITA parking but i live 5 mins from cuty centre on main bus route or take a car anyway. Weight wise look about the same as a 110. Any issues other than maybe fitting a reversing camera?

Cheers (as ever) forum chaps! Retired/medicalled off last year and am now the worlds oldest apprentice at 40 (although technically i guess im the unskilled partner) at my mates/our bodyshop. Flat out on old VWs but looks like landies might start to feature heavily cheers again Elvis

http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/070/SubProducts/070-0001 i guess these might be whats lurking underneath body/ali ?

Hope ive called it by the right nem, would be a sill on any other vehicle!! The sill that runs from the A to C pillar appears to be held on with a bit of luck and chequer plate riveted over the top (although the whole thing is a bit wobbly). One presumes underneath there is a proper bit of metal that connects the outriggers. Is this bolted on or weld on? easy to do? parts available? erm, anything else i need to know? When you open passenger doors the sill tops look distinctly crusty and has a good 'explosion' for want of a better word,of tiger seal trowled on over the top.

Thats the one. Its in my fairly (sorry) lengthy original post. Also want disc rear brakes. Thought if i get a second set i can get diffs rebuilt, blast the cases and paint them at work and then rebuild them. Pop them on one weekend - sounds so easy

you lot are proper ace! now, go out and find me a pair - closer to devon and closer to free the better! cheers again!

cheers chaps! Its a 110, best bet is to look for a matched pair of 300tdi or Td5 110 axles then?