robbie1717

Used IPA in the end, on a rag and gave them a good wipe over rather than rinsing them in a container of it. Sighnbox i'm also using the Yellow Halfords Caliper paint (small 250ml cans) - what sort of drying times did you have with yours?

more of wiping with a rag soaked in the stuff rather than rinsing them in a container filled with it then? I've also got Isopropyl Alcohol? Would that be any different or an improvement?

Just about to start revamping my braking system, got calipers rebuilt (sandblasted, S/S Pistons, new seals fitted & reassembled) and was thinking of painting them. Would it be alright to give them a clean with Thinners to remove any leftover Grease, Brake Fluid etc prior to applying the paint? I've heard/read a few different ideas on this, some people are saying the thinners will swell the seals & others seem to think it will be fine ......... Anyone have any advice on this? Cheers

Could it be either of these? Neither looks exactly "plug n play"......... http://www.volvooemparts.com/p/Volvo_2012_S4020l-5-cylinder-Turbo-Diesel/Mass-air-flow-sensor/42901741/31342414.html http://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/volvo-s40/s40-ii-saloon-ms/20891/12906

Did anyone ever find out that Volvo S40 MAF Sensor part number?

I found my water leak was coming through the seam in the bulkhead, directly under where the Heater Blower/Matrix is bolted down. Removed all interior Trim and ran hose on LR until i could see exactly where it was coming through, originally i could see it dripping from the Plastic Trim over the Door Catch/Restraint Bar which made me think it was coming in through the Door Seal (which i also changed). removed Heater, cleaned up, resealed with Dintrol 410 http://www.amazon.co.uk/DINITROL-POLYURETHANE-Sealing-adhesive-compound/dp/B007W1OWLS and refitted heater. Also fitted new seals between Wing Inlet and Heater & Heater and Bulkhead.

Tiny Picks & Awls..............could make something from a Safety Pin i guess....... When you say Whole Unit do you mean complete fuel line from the tank to the FPR, or the complete connector?

I was thinking along those lines, did you ever try to get the o-ring out? Its fairly deep set without much space to get anything in there to "pick" it out for sizing up and replacement. I found a repair kit from the company you spoke about in your first post http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-300-Quick-Disconnect-Repair/dp/B000XQ5IO4 its a bit overkill for one weeping connector, but perhaps they do single replacement components as well?

Also had a look on some equipment at work, JCB Engines and Terex Site Dumpers have the same Fuel Filter Header/Connector on them, with the same fuel connection fittings used on the Td5 Engine. With all this gear using them, surely they cant be unique and unavailable to buy in the UK?

Did you find out if the "blue" colour of the O'Ring meant anything? I guess it'll have to be heat and diesel resistant? I thought of getting some 2nd hand pipes and using connectors from there, they only seem to be pushed into the Grey Rubber Hose. If i was to Cut the Hose Back, heat it and force the new connector in would that seal?

Finally got round to figuring out where fuel has been slowing leaking out of my Defender ('06 Td5), it seems the Fuel hose Connector that goes onto the Fuel Pressure Regulator - with the Green hood on it - isn't as well connected as i'd like. Attached pics might explain the part i'm talking about better. The slow leak is coming from somewhere on/inside the connector. I took it off and had a look, there seems to be a small Blue O'Ring inside it, that i'm guessing makes the seal to the Barb on coming out from the FPR. I don't really want to get into replacing the whole fuel line from the Tank (or is the filter?) for the sake of a small weeping leak. Does anyone know if you can purchase these Connectors separately, or even the O'rings from inside them? Has anyone else attempted this? Cheers

I've always bought Genuine Parts Filters for my '06 Td5 Defender, i noticed with the last 2 i bought they seem to have suffered a drop in quality/packaging. Previously they always came shrink wrapped in hard clear see-through plastic with all the seals/washers in place and a Water Drain Plug inserted. The last 2 arrived with some ill fitting plastic caps either end, which fall off more easily than they stay put, no Water Drain Plug on either and missing seal/washer for the Water Drain Plug on one........ ....they are both UFI manufactured and are stamped Landrover Genuine Parts on the Filters and Boxes. Needless to say, the price hasnt dropped off to match!.......

i've seen Paddocks sell BM Props too - whats the diff between theirs and the ones GL sells?

20A should be fine, to run a 100w spotlight - 100w/12v = 8.3A of current drawn through them.

Pics

thanks guys i think i'll go with these http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_LC2KIT.html

Hi I found this electrical connector on an old harness on the dump, i'd like to get some new ones male and female to use for connecting my Spotlights. Can anyone identify the connector and let me know where i can buy new ones? Cheers

this works well also http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tubeless-Tyre-Puncture-Plugger-Repair-Kit-Motorcycle-Quad-Bike-Scooter-Car-/110864093400?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D190634295065%252B190634295065%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9045861642646947240 I found it much easier & quicker to use than the Vulcanised String types as well.

I used White/Methylated spirits, Jizer & scouring pads to clean a full 90 Chassis & Axles of Waxoyl, much more effective (and much harder/time consuming) than Pressure Washing or Steam Cleaning - which i tired first. Spray/Brush on Spirits, aggitate with Scouring Pad, Spray on Jizer, wipe off with rag. Only took a full week

your right, not much real Mud to speak of, but i am impressed with the wear rate of the MTRs on a Friends 110.

Hi John What size did you go for, is that a pic of them in your Profile Pic, are they on Zu Rims? Thanks for the supplier link Cheers Robbie

I know this is an old thread, but can anyone tell me where in UK i can still get hold of some Goodyear Wrangler MTR's please? 265 or 285/75-16 Cheers.

OK Cheers. Having had a look at the original though, i wonder if its possible to just remove the "T" Connector where the EGR System used to get Vacuum from and replace it with a straight through Connector?

You mean Vacuum Hose right? Or just any Fuel/Oil Hose???

Hi I fitted a EGR Valve Removal Kit, now i want to tidy it all up a bit by fitting a Vacuum Hose without the EGR "T" in it. Can anyone help by giving me the part number for a "non EGR" Brake Vacuum Hose to fit: Defender Td5 Year: 2003 Right Hand Drive No ABS Cheers Robbie