kingstonandy

Thanks chaps!!

I should explain, I'm 200 miles away from home using a borrowed garage to renovate my Defender. Like an Eejit I managed to leave my Haynes manual at home, hence all the daft questions on here. 1. Could someone give me the basics for setting valve clearances please? 2. I'm only getting 6-8 volts at the injector pump solenoid so its only working intermittently. I got it down here by unplugging the electric cooling fan relay and using the power supply to keep the solenoid open. Where would you start looking for the duff connection? Is it fed directly from the ignition switch or does it go via a relay? Once again, thanks in advance. Andy

I seem to have mislaid my manual, I can remember most of the details, but if someone could give me the 2 torque settings for the tensioner I'd be grateful. Thanks, Andy

Thats, just what I needed, thanks.

As far as I can tell the wing is secured to the bulkhead with four bolts and captive nuts. I can just about reach the top bolt but have no chance of accessing the lower three, it looks as though it might be easier if I seperate the inner wing from the outer but I've removed every fastener I can see and the two still seem solidly fixed together. All help appreciated, this is driving me nuts.

I don't know anything about Td5s, but in Africa I got through a lot of fuel filters, air filters and cable ties!

I don't know anything about 2-pack, I thought it was deadly toxic though and needed all sorts of precautions?

Hi, I used to do a fair bit of amateur spraying, motorbikes mostly, but its been a while and can't recall what sort of coverage you get. If hypothetically I was still able to get cellulose, would 1/2 litre each of primer and topcoat be enough to do 4 doors inside and out? Cheers, Andy

According to my not so accurate bathroom scales the bare doors weigh 12kg front row & 10kg 2nd row. Andy

That's the first time I've heard that. Most paint manufacturers state that their self-etch is suitable for galvanised steel. Also I sought the advice of the bodyshop I normally use at work. Andy

Self etch primer will bond to zinc no problem. As I understand it its no different to spraying bare aluminium. Andy

I'll weigh the bare doors for you later on, I'm curious about why you want to know though?

Yep, I got myself four lightly marked factory seconds to replace what's left of my original doors. All thats left really is the skin, some ferrous oxide and assorted bits of angle iron I've welded on over the last couple of years.

I think I'm going to need a bit of luck and a lot of patience to get these; to fit. Hinges and locks are the same but everything else (stays, window mechs) is different. Anyone tried this before?

Jaysis! 800 quid? A year? You must be mad.