EggNChips

Brilliant, you won't regret it....well maybe. There'splenty of Freelanders in breakers yards to get the window seals, but personally I wouldn't bother unless they leak. They have an an aluminium frame and tend to knink when being installed, so don't look brilliant unless you're very very careful.

The diff for the front is inside the IRD, but never heard of that breaking without the crown wheel for the rear breaking. Unusual failure mode.....

Get someone to put it in reverse while you listen to the sensors. You'll hear a ticking noise form one that are working, if you can't hear the ticking from one, that'll be faulty and needs replaced.

Cam sensor, they usually fail when warm and work when cooled down. Only used at start up. Get some freezer spray from B&Q and next time it won't start, spray it on the cam sensor and it will probably start.

Regulator cables have probably snapped. Look on your favourite auction site for a repair kit, usually around 15 quid or get the complate regulator for a bit over 100 quid

Sunroofs are a total nightmare, I've been trying for over a year to get mine working properly and it still doesn't!!!! The leaking is probably caused by the dtains being blocked. There's drains at each corner and these needs to be clear to give the water somewhere to go. Crunching is cos the motor is worn and slipping on the cables.

No they're not replacable. They are part of the bumper and plastic welded to the main bumper. If you were able to reweld them on then you might get away with it.

Glad it turned out to be a simple and cheap fix. Even if it had been the o rings on the pump, it's a relatively simple job. Only takes 2 or 3 hours and the seal kit costs around £20. Pump holding tool would be another £30, but £50 and 3 hours to rebuild a diesel pump is fanatastic.

The Cam sensor is only used when starting and wouldn't cause power loss, but would cause it not to start. They're only used to tell the ECU when the no1 cylinder is on compression stroke at start up and ignored after that. The crankshaft sensor tells the ECU when to fire the injectors and is used all the time. They tend to fail and the car won't start only when it's warm and start fine when they're cold. Using a freeze spray on the cam sensor can be a temporary fix til it's replaced. I would be concerned that a mobile mechanic has messed with the wiring???? I would put the wiring back to standard and start to fault find from there. Is the car starter turning over properly? Is there any diesel leaks around the pump? Try spraying a little WD40 into the intake and see if it starts or just chugs. Doing this is not good for the engine, so only do it while fault finding!!!

The TD4's have a seperate Master cylinder with quick release coupling and ConCentric Slave. Is there any signs of fluid leak around the bellhousing? Try topping up the master cylinder and then bleed the system in reverse by attaching a syringe to the remote bleed nipple on the slave and drawing the fluid out (making sure that the reservoir never runs dry), this is the best way to bleed the system If that doesn't work, then try replacing the master cylinder, they're about 70-100 quid If that doesn't work then it's the Concentric slave and it's a gearbox off job, best to replace the Pressure plate, friction plate and CCS all at the same time, but it's gonna be expensive........

Year? engine type? Give us a fighting chance of answering......

The gearbox is definitely different, but I think the IRD box is the same. The only model that uses a different IRD box is the 2.5 V6..........I think (disclamer)

I'll second everything that FF says, especially the bits about genuine parts. Parts of ebay can be attractive, but the old addage about 'buy cheap, buy twice' is especially true here.

Check the VCU by driving the car in a tight circle on hard ground and the car should drag a little bit, but the rear wheels shouldn't skip. If you're in any doubt at all, take the propshaft off before the IRD box gets damaged too badly. The car will be fine without the prop as long as theres no metal chunks in the oil. Best thing to do is drop the oil out of the IRD unit and see if there's any metal fragments or a sheen about the oil.

I've been stung too many times with cheap car parts. I've had drop links that lasted 2 weeks and prop bearings that lasted about the same. Pay the extra for decent branded parts.......

Only buy a genuine bosch one. I've had copies over the years and they're usually worse than the faulty genuine one. I would contact the seller and make sure it's genuine before buying. I very rarely buy car parts on ebay anymore as they're usually carp unless they're from a brand name. I've had droplinks that lasted 2 weeks, clutch that was useless and various other parts that failed very shortly after being fitted.

Removing the prop will not harm the vehicle and will give a slight improvement in MPG & will save wear on the IRD box. It may tend to wheelspin a little easier, but not excessivley so. I have used Freelanders with the prop removed for years when the IRD box was damaged, but if it's not 4WD, then why have a Freelander...... To be 100% safe, you should probably inform your insurance company.

Never done it, but I believe you would need it programmed. Let us know how you get on becuase it's a retro fit that I'd like to do as well. Up in sunny Scotland(sic) a heated screen is a godsend.

You say that the marks are still aligned? Then the VCU is seized and needs replaced. Take the propshaft off now to save any further wear on the IRD.

Are you sure this is the case? What test's have you done to confirm that the front isn't being driven? I can't think of any fault that would produce that result bar the diff within the IRD being broken, but that would mean the rear wheels weren't driven either.......

Sounds like in intercooler hose is (or has been) leaking or split, if it is, then a new hose is cheap and easy to fit. Certaily wouldn't put me off.

My TD4 manual averages around 39 and never does less than 36, the 1.8 is listed at around 27. I would say that you had a fault with the TD4 if it was anywhere near the same as the 1.8. I had a TD4 auto a while back and it averged 32mpg

The Harman/Kardon rear speakers & sub woofer are driven of the amp under neath the passenger seat. The amp is driven off the rear outputs drom the HU. The Harman/Kardon uses standard DIN type connectors. There are 3 connectors: 1 For power / Gal /steering wheel controls 2. Speaker connections to front & rear 3. For connection to the multi changer, also has pre-amp, aux input, telphone input. On the Freelander, only the changer control is connected.

The AC can run even if it's switched off. If the heater control is set to demist & the hot/cold is set to al least half way, then the AC pump will run to dehumidify the air. If the wet patch is water without anti freeze or screen wash, ect then I wouldn't worry.

I had a very similar experience with a TD4, on motorway journeys it would not pull and gradually lose power. A friend eventually fixed it and it turned out to be the turbo actuator sticking. Think it was overboosting and the ECU would gradually cut power.