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Badger90

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About Badger90

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    Mind that Tree!

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  • Location
    Sutterton, Lincolnshire

Previous Fields

  • Interests
    Shooting, Rugby, Agriculture, Working on Land Rovers,
    More shooting and offroading.
  1. I have discovered that after the 3 fault codes are cleared, The three lights come on once about 2-3mph is reached. But the ABS and TC works fine. No problems unit the road speed has reached 7mph then it stops. So does anyone have any other ideas? Im going to try playing about with exciter rings again. Thanks
  2. I have replaced the ABS ECU. Apparently it was tested before sending it, But it still throws the same codes. Are you on about replacing the engine ECU? I have read something about rubbish ECUs. I also did forget to mention that I have replaced the brake light switch too, And the hill decent wires are attached to the micro switch still. Thanks
  3. Evening. I Would like to pick someones brain on the abs on the Freelanders, I have a Freelander 1998 L series to sell on, The ABS is driving me sodding bonkers. I have replaced so far, 4 ABS wheel sensors, And tested resistances, All around 1100-1250 ohms, 4 ABS exciter rings, All 60 tooth. ABS ECU, And Pump with modulator, I have tested all wheel sensors at the sensor plugs and via the ECU plug for any breaks. All the pins on the ECU and the sensors again are about 1100-1250 ohms. I have done all this and the diagnostics is still throwing both rear wheel sensors output signal too low and front left wheel output signal too low. And some times the diagnostics throws unknown code up but loses the 2 rear sensors, But at the moment it sticking with the front left and the 2 rear speed wheel sensors. If that makes any sense? After replacing all sensors and rings, And there are no breaks in wiring loom, As the resistances are around 1250 and 1100 ohms. And my auto data says they should be between 950-1100 ohms, Im also wondering if the new sensors are throwing more the 1100 ohms, What if the ECU is not recognizing as the resistance is greater then 1100 ohms? I now at the stage where I want to burn it. I have spent hours going into weeks working on this ABS, Getting a bit fed up. I really am not sure where to look next? Would anyone have any ideas? I would be VERY, VERY, VERY Grateful if anyone can help please? Thank
  4. I'm having a issue with the sealed extneral clutch hydraulic system and after to advice please. I maybe being blond but clutch release arm seized and I pulled the box out and polished it up. Slides like a golden now. However I seem to to think once the slave is fully extended as in taken off the bracket with out being compressed like the come new. Are they still useable? As I I'm very stumped. I can not get any travel out of the pedal at all. Thanks
  5. Good evening. I am just after a second opinion if possible. I have a customers Freelander 2.0di. Didn't have any clutch. So I replaced the hydraulic system and slave cylinder place. its drive able but the clutch is still dragging. I have checked the pedal and all that jazz. They seem okay. So I assume the fingers on the pressure plate are not very well. Would anyone else agree. Just a seconds opinion to put my mind to rest? Thanks
  6. Now that web site is awsome.. Thank you very very very much. Thank you. I think I will stick to the ones from mansfields, Also tryed to match your part number that you put to ones on rimmers and paddocks. can not find a mantching one. Thanks for your help...
  7. Evening all. I got my self a freelander 1 td4 commercial automatic. going to replace front drive shafts and as ones poop'ed. and VCU. I have been told that the automatic front drive shafts are different to the manual shafts? Is anyone able to help me on this or am I being told codds-wallap and being charged £110 per shaft opposed to £60 a shaft. I am guessing there could be a spline difference or C.V strength difference? Any help would be splended please? Regards Sam
  8. simonb......... You are my hero! Thanks for this post I have just done this job on customers Discovery 300TDI. Could not had been a better write up if you tryed!! Thank you!
  9. like i done all checks on bulbs, changed indiator stalk and light on off switch, i checked the relay was ticking.. it sounded okay, but i want to change it to be sure.. some was has suggested about the solinoid in the front wing? regards sam
  10. morning all,. my brother has encounterd a problem with his main beam lights they have all of a sudden stopped working? side lights work fine, rear tail and stop lights fine, high beam fine, changed the indicator stalk, still nothing, changed the main light switch, still nothing, checked the bulbs, there fine, checked the repays... there fine. any advice anyone? he doing harvest hours. going leaving work at 6am and getting midnight, so driving home in the darks a promblem. regards sam
  11. im currently trying to do this conversion!.. from what i have done today. iv split them both and stiped it so i can remove the imput shafts and swaped them over, as i was re assembling it i realsied that the main bearing on input shaft is larger on the td5 then 300. so i used the 300 casing and front plate and the reassembled it again. while was doing that, after doing 6 bolts for the front plate and bolting the casing on it then didnt want to turn.. so i took it apart again and couted the teeth.. 32 teeth on the input shaft and the conecting gear on the layshaft. the bearing are the same on layshaft and from what i have measured the inner bearing for the iinput shaft is the same on 300 and td5 and the outer bearing is lager on the td5 and the 300 is smaller. so i took it apart again and put the td5 casing, front plat and main shaft back in and it was fine, turned lovely. i do look and layshafts and theyall have same tooth count. so the only thing i can think of is swapping the td5 main bearing onto the 300 input shaft. its not as easy you think, i was told that all that needed doing was swapping the shafts, but that isnt the case it seems. if anyone can shed some light then im all ears lol regards sam
  12. As per title.. I need the selector falk in side a defender r380. Here the number the discovery one if that help.. Ftc4247.. Cheers Sam
  13. removed the transferbox this morning and the splines on the input gear and the main shaft slpines are no longer lol so its new gearbox and input gear jobby.. cheers sam
  14. boro: nothing happens in diff lock.. tyred all gears and all ranges.. farmerboy: i hav wondered if its splines in the shaft. cwazywrbbit: i didnt think of the bearings on the input shaft in the transfer box.. if it is that then there nice and easy to change arnt they lol. western: thats true.. did forget about that.. my land rover skills are getting a little rusty now i havnt got my own to fix everyday. mickeyw: yeah i agree with you on that.. i thought that if the bearing fail on the gearbox input shaft.. because if you take the gearbox casing off you then can remove the input shaft.. that is with ease thought lol neil: i also did wonder if the clutch of gone.. but the clutch at the peddle feel fine.. so yeah like they said.. best to check the transfer box inout shaft before going guns blazing striping the gearbox out lol cheers guys for the help.. most of you rememberd what i forgot lol
  15. evening all if you havnt allready gatherd that my mother red 90 has broken again.. nothing to with the engine this time... makes a change.. been good since i changed it.. the gearbox has lost drive.. all gear. clutch feels fine.. props good, theres a slight grinding when in gear.. im convinced that the bearing have failed on the input shaft in the gearbox.. i just want a second opinion.. i think if the bearings fail on the input shaft the hilical gears will jump out causing no drive on the leyshaft? correct me if i am wrong? cheers sam P.S its a defender R380 box
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