EFILandRover

Definitely interested to see what you get up to! I've recently had to work out how to remove the EWS off a 4.4 L322 for a mate, next challenge is sorting out an m57!

Na this was a bargain from another 4wd forum. $600 which Im pretty stoked with

Not really casually. Just another case of being in the right place at the right time and a dad willing to grab it for because I live in another island Wouldn't have either of them if he wasn't as obsessed with rovers as I am. And here is the parts one in all its glory. Ld28 and 5 speed http://s93.photobucket.com/user/turoa/media/2013-06-23154015.jpg.html'>

Aah Ideal! added to watchlist. Although I may have just bought another whole 110 Just waiting on confirmation

Yea thought about that but still the arch issue and the funny vents in the sides. Cheers, will have a look into that if I can find some cheap enough Also a plan, Was trying to avoid it as it wont look perfect but worth a shot

Haha yea it is. Pretty much stole it from the guy

Hi all, I have a 1986 110 with two completely buggered front guards. Unfortunately here in NZ it is near on impossible to get second hand body panels for these vehicles without selling your kidneys so Im looking for other options. I know the arches and grill mounting locations are different, but is it possible to modify s3 guards to fit a 110? Cheers http://s93.photobucket.com/user/turoa/media/20130310_194536.jpg.html'>

Hey mate, brilliant work and good to see! I put a 1uz in my landrover 88" project with hilux diffs awhile ago but got bored and never finished it so put a holden 6cyl back in again to get it going. Have recently purchased a 109" flat deck 2a to play with so Im going to throw it in that so your thread is going to be a valuable reference for me keep up the good work

I used to do it at my old work and did quite a few sets of them. Use a 1mm cutting disk to cut through the weld. Be careful not to cut into the wheel (doesnt matter if you cut in a little bit). Use a bit of pipe and a hammer to seperate the centre. Only hit the outer edge where that is up against the actual wheel. Otherwise you will warp the centre. This will probably take awhile to get out as you need to minimize the amount you cut. You can tell when it starts to move as the weld will start to crack. When it is out use a flap disk to clean up the centre from the wheel. When its cleaned up, depending on if you are just adding backspace or flipping, line it up again and hammer it back in to around the right position taking care to only hit the outer edge. Then with it in place, measure from where the wheel contacts the hub to the outside of the wheel using a straight edge and a ruler. go around and measure at the 12,3,6 and 9 oclock positions to find where it is out, and then give it a light whack until all measure the same. Tack it up in 4 places and bolt it onto a hub on your truck. Give it a spin and see if there is wobble. If there is this means either your measurements are out or the wheel is buckled. If it is buckled, the best you can do is to mark where it is different and give it a whack in the right direction. Try and get it as good as you can. Then weld em up and enjoy. The other way to do it is to build a jig which will take a bit more setting up, but if you plan to do a few wheels then it is probably worth it.

I thought id better update this. Pulled manifold and had to helicoil out one hole. Manifold was warped by about 3mm so had to mill it flat. But also cleaned inlet manifold and my dad made an egr removal bits. She seems to honk along a lil better than before. But the best part is I dont have to deal with the squealing anymore

I pulled the heat shield off to find the manifold leaking around no3 cylinder and a broken stud on #1, so I guess its time for new studs and gasket then

Hiya, Recently my td5 disco has developed a squeeling noise. It varies with the rpm and if I floor it, it seems to dissapear. I was wondering if maybe it was a boost leak (still got the standard hoses) or something more sinister? Cheers turoa

I dont think I can bend it enough to miss the springs can you? I do have the bits here for a coil conversion and did think about it. But I have a theory that leaf springs will work better offroad as they "roll" over the bumps rather than having to be forced over, since they have the fixed end at the front.

Ive started putting a disco front end into my s1 trials thingy, and im now stuck. I can either have the spring perches hanging ugly low and losing all my clearence, or I can go spring over and have it sitting way too high. What can I do? Im not particularaly fond of either option. Reason being is that the tie rod his the springs

Standard spring would be fine. You will need to build anti diff wrap bars. I hope you are using wider than standard diffs?