EFILandRover
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Posts posted by EFILandRover
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How much work would you be looking at doing to one?
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Ive been up to see him several times, but he hasnt been homr
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Thanks alot for the info Bill. It is much appreciated
Cheers
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Take a look at my thread Here
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Bill, I told my dad about how you do it, and he drew it up in photoshop, and it reduced the pinion from 20° to 10°.
But, is it supposed to be like this?
And how does it drive on the road? i.e any problems with accelerating etc?
I went out to the workshop and took the springs out and disconnected the A-frame, and the angles look really good sitting there. And is there any problems with the driveshaft phasing?
Cheers
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Here in NZ, they are called skippy's. They have longer military shackles, cut front guards (yes, they do have a lip on which you can screw flares), you can mount tools on teh bonnet aswell. Unfortunately, I dont know too much about them, but if you join the yahoo group "NZLROC" you should be able to get the answers, if any, that you want
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The problem with a toyota nose of the diff is it too long
I am lead to belive a Nissan Dif does not have such a long nose.
But it does have the same ratios.
The other option as you say is to put the toyota cv shaft on . Have seen it done before with no problems.
Most of the Landies with Nissan And toyota axels and diffs on have all be disco's Rangies and 110. The don't really have 90's in Aus
The only problem if you ignore it will go thought UJs like no tomorrow and vibrate on the road
BTW if you go 100" and coils. The axels under you dads nissan will fit straight on to it with no worries
Nissnan axles are a bit too much $$$ for me at the moment, they *may* go in later on.
Ive been eyeing up my dads axles, but he tells me to keep my eye off them
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try remounting the rear axle assembly so that the diff is tilted up around 15 degrees.This gives equal UJ angles to cancel vibes without the need to keep the t/case and diff flanges on the same plane, and appreciably reduces the angle that the UJ's normally operate at. Similar problems on FC101 Landeys are cured with a 17 degree tilt but both front and rear axles need to be done and it's a big job on front.
Bill.
Thanks for that. Its the kind of advice I was hoping for rather than have to adapt a CV shaft. My whole rear end is tacked (solidly) in place so its easy to adjust.
Cheers
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Hi,
some of you may have seen my 2a in the members section, and I have now come accross a major problem. I was going to adapt the 2a's driveshafts to the toyota diff (we've done one flange), but I have too much angle on the rear UJ's. I took one of them apart and clearenced it, but theres still stuff all travel in it. I have lifted the LR up on the hoist, and it binds before full it will have full articulation.
So... here are the options I have come up with
Extend the wheel base to 100" (PITA)
Use toyota UJ's on both ends of the shaft (they have lots of travel, id say over 45 degrees)
Use a toyota CV shaft (I have one in the garage)
Ignore it
Get my ass into gear, and drop a lexus v8 in there so I can use toyota UJ's
What do you think? what else could I do?
Cheers
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My names Turoa B)
I do know of a 2 door down here, thats up the road from me that isnt particularly tidy (has been used offroad).
Hi Turoa!
Sounds like I'm talking to you on the ORE forum! Hello!
If it's a cheap enough 2 door then please tell me more about the one up the road!
Cheers,
Hugo.
Yep, thats me on ORE.
I can go up the road and have a chat to him and find out how much he wants if you wish
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My names Turoa B)
Transfer case is now stuffed so Im thinking about what im going to do to it. I want to have my Landrover done before any work goes to the range rover (S2a, toyota diffs, coils etc). So its going to sit in the naughty corner of the back yard. I do know of a 2 door down here, thats up the road from me that isnt particularly tidy (has been used offroad).
I have a spare v8 that I might get some new parts for and throw in there. I think the clock has been around at least once. Smoke is blue/ white colour. And it burns alot of oil so id say it was probably the rings.
Im also thinking of maybe throwing in a lexus v8 and auto (very cheap here. $1000 nz, so about 330 pounds maybe)
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Hi,
Im based in Wellington.
I just want to get the engine to run right at the moment (blowing lots of smoke and down on power), but wouldnt mind getting a tad more power out of it.
I might have a look at paddocks stuff
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Dont worry, you'll find a bargain at some stage. I bought a 73 rangerover last december for $750. It had LPG, warrant of fitness and registration. Just the engine was tired and the transferbox pops out of high. So naturally I decided to take it offroad, and ive now damaged all my pretty panels
.Point is, the deals will come up.
BTW, how much is it to buy bits to rebuild a rover 3.5 over there in england? I may look at bringing some bits in
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I decided id better get round to putting in a snorkel in the rangerover (stock intake location is stupid), so I looked around the garage.
I found;
A box of pvc fittings
Some pvc pipe
some commodore intake bits
a $100 blue flexi intake hose (from supercheap 6 months ago)
and an old patrol carb air intake.
To start with, I started thinking about how I was going to do the underbonnet bit. I already knew where the snorkel would be feeding out. The original plan was to go and get another intake hose (black one), but supercheap didnt have any. THere were also not enough pvc bends or right size pipe, so I started lining up the commodore bits.
I used a 45 degree bend to come out from between the carbs, then onto a couple of commodore intake bits, then onto a bit of pvc pipe, which connected to the blue flexi. The flexi was then fed through teh panel under the windscreen and a hole was cut in the panel. It was then fedout, and then the bit of patrol intake pipe with the bend was added onto the end.
It is airtight, and I still need to paint the top bit to make it look a bit better.
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Dont stuff around with rover diffs, unless you can find a 4 pin one. I took a range rover I picked up cheap, to have a play a couple of weeks ago. The only thing I did was put 7.50x16 SAT's on, and the diff blew apart on me. Wasnt even pushing it that hard.
110 salisbury is probably the best, but they need shaving so they dont drag everywhere.
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I mostly use Land Rover spares ltd, but theres also Stag4x4, and other ones floating around. Trademe is a good place to check (damn ripoff though, I am going to start my own auction site for automotive stuff only(when I get round to it)). Theres another place called BJ autos in the south island.
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Might also need to slightly grind a little off the mushrooms at the largest part of the diameter (i.e. around the bolt pcd). The wheels do go on without doing this but can be a git to get off.
Well they are on. I had to do a little bit of grinding on the lip of the flange, but that was easy B)
I have had it out on a couple of hills and its great fun out there. Immensely more capable than the 2a when it was first taken out there (stock), its goes really well on sidelings and is very stable. Maybe thats because I havnt taken the sway bars out yet
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When you say fluid, I take it that unless you have the very early LSD transfer box, you have used 20/50 engine oil in both main and transfer gearboxes?
No, I though it would be 70/90 sae?? (manual gearbox fluid)
Damn, whats it supposed to be?
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you will have to get hold of a workshop manual, I don't think the haynes covers it.
Set everything up as per the manual except that they say to use a dummy shaft ( a special LR part )
I just slidec the intermediate sfaft through and put on the gears and associated stuff as I go.
Then be patient and keep persisting till you get it all in.
If you ever thought about changing high range ratios this is the time to do it.
Cheers.
Michael.
Cool, thanks. Ill have to try and find a workshop manual. Hopefully being in NZ wont damage my chances. Ive never thought about changing the ratios as ive only just got the rangerover, and 750x16 sats are the biggest im gonna run on it unless I do a toyota diff conversion B)
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The gear box jumping out of high range would most probably
be caused by wear in the shims on the intermediate shaft in the transfer case.
To repair it you will need to remove th e intermediate shaft and reinstall it with the reqiured
shimming to factory spec. The parts are cheap, it should take max 4hrs . THe hard bit is getting
all the gears and shims on the shaft in the correct order without dropping off.
If you aren't confident with this sort of stuff, speak to a LR specialist about it they should not charge you more than 4hrs labour.
Cheers
Michael
Got any pics on how to do it? I finally got it today, and I put heaps of fluid in the transfer box. I dont think there was any in there.
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Hi all,
Whats involved with putting series wheels on a RR classic?
Also, the 1973 transferbox is popping out of high. Whats causing this
Cheers
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Just while I'm on, what's the offroading scene like out there? I'm flying on thursday for a week (get in Saturday to New Plymouth) and was wondering is it like Scotland with pay & play or like England with green lanes?
There are hardly any pay and play places here.
There are lots of paper roads (unformed roads. Probably like "green lanes"). There are lots of forrests which access is easily gained. Lots of public areas to play in (just gotta know where). Best thing to do is to join a club, and also join up at www.offroadexpress.co.nz and find some other people in your area. Thats a good way to find some offroading spots.
How far do you have to travel in england to get offroad? Usually, its not very far here. Im not sure about New Plymounth though.
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I just bought a cheap '73 range rover thats popping out of high ratio. Is there a way to fix this? or do I need to get a new transfer case for it?
Cheers
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Here now and after a Rangie!
in International Forum
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