aerocorey

No, it's dead on, but you do raise an interesting point. I'm absolutely certain that the old belt was on correctly, and I'm just as certain that the belt I just installed is correct. What if I was to intentionally advance the injector pump 1 or 2 teeth and then re-adjust it starting from a much more retarded position? I think it could work, but I also think it would be simply covering for the symptoms of a pump that needs to be replaced. Maybe I'll try it just to be the lab rat and report back with results.

Ah, thanks. I missed the rear bracket. Now that I've had a chance to give it a proper adjustment, it would seem that it has already been advanced as far as it will go. I just replaced the timing belt as well. I suppose if my injector pump is already advanced to the limit and still wants to be advanced further it's trying to tell me that it's worn and I need a new one.

I read in the tech archives that I can adjust my injetcion timing by clocking the injector pump. My TD2.5 blows tons of white smoke when the engine is cold, and it puffs white when I get on the throttle once warmed up. I think my timing is retarded. I loosened the pump and tried to turn it but it won't budge. How hard should I have to try to rotate it? I'm also unclear which way I'm supposed to rotate it to advance the timing. The tech archives give good instructions, however I want to be sure that I'm looking at the pump from the correct end before I try to rotate it to advance the timing.

Thanks. In the absence of a thrust washer do you think a piece of teflon cut to fit would be suitable for a short period of time?

ttt I'm about to dig back into the swivel. I'm really hoping someone can give me a description of this thrust washer.

I'm rebuilding my steering swivels. On the left side I have no thrust washer, which explains the wobble I had before I removed the top pin shims on that side a few month ago. Can anyone give me specs on the thrust washer? Tomorow is Sunday so nothing around here will be open for me to buy parts. I've got plenty of stuff I could use to substitute for a thrust washer. I suspect that any steel washer of suitable diameter and of a thickness matching the top pin shim would be suitable. Also, on the right side the top pin was SUPER tight going into the railko bush. I instaled the bush as the manual says, with the machined face inboard. I also greased the bush with a bit of the one-shot before attempting to install the pin. It's gonna take a hammer to get the pin in, but I don't want to do that if it's not normal.

Not quite what I was hoping for. 300Tdi snorkel is on the wrong side and putting a snorkel on requires all of the stock air intake is still in place. I don't have anything except a gaping hole in the front of my turbo with a cone filter jammed on it. Anyone home fab an intake setup? Pics? I'll come up with something I'm sure, but some ideas would be great.

When I bought my 90 all it had for an air intake is a cone filter strapped to the turbo inlet with a hose clamp. I'd like something a little less vulnerable. I don't NEED a snorkel, but since I'm looking to replace what I've got with something better I'm open to the idea. What've you got? Where did you get it? Did you make something? I'm looking for ideas, but remember, I don't have any of the stock air intake left.

What's the difference between a heater core with horizontal pipes and one with vertical pipes other than the orientation of the pipes?

Ah, got it. Had me thinking for a minute that there was something I wasn't taking into account. Thanks, all.

Sooooo.....I guess that means it was built around the middle of June 1988. I'm confused about what a working week being from Monday through Friday does to change the formula.

No original paperwork. I found a "2588" near the outrigger. I guess that means it was built around the middle of June 1988.

Got it. It's pouring out so I'll have to check it another time. Hopefully I'll find something useful there. That VIN checker was neat, but I'm looking for more of a specific build date.

Thanks. I'll look there. First, though, would you mind telling me what an outrigger is? I'm sure I'll know what you're talking about, but where I come from outriggers are only on boats. I need to learn some LR nomenclature.

I'd like to know the exact build date of my truck. Can I find it on the truck somewhere or am I going to have to go to Ford with the VIN and ask them?

Yep, part of mine is missing. Thanks.

No, I meant the speaker grille that sits to the right and below your radio. It must be a speaker for one of the other radios you have mounted. Thanks for the pics. I do have a parts book, so I can look at the illustrations anytime. I'm mostly looking for actual pictures. I figure if I can't have a decent dash I might as well at least know what I'm missing.

Looks like you've got some kind of cover panel behind there. Are those speaker holes I see? Are those LR parts? I know I can get LR parts to mount the radio, but I wonder about how I'm going to cover up all the wires.

My rear window washer doesn't work. The wiper works fine, but not the washer. There are 3 spades on the back of my stock rear wiper switch. I can't find any combination of 2 spades which have continuity when the wiper button is pushed in. If I apply 12V to the plug for the washer I get a good spray, so I know the wiring is good. I assume my switch is simply bad. Am I missing anything? Also, I recently requested pics of a stock dash for my model. I would be interested if anyone has good detail pics of the area around the rear wiper switch and cigar lighter.

That's exactly what I wanted to hear...been looking for an excuse to pull that access panel.

There's a black wire with a female spade connector hanging down on the right side of the transfer case. I assume it's for the difflock indicator light since my difflock indicator light doesn't come on although my difflock works fine.

I made a few trips today. It seems to be holding up. I expect it should start shaking again soon. If my speedometer worked I'd give you a distance. Man this truck is a basketcase...

It seemed that most if not all of the play was in the top swivel. I pulled the brake heat shield and removed the 2 bolts holding the top pin in. It came right out with a pull from a gloved hand. It's dry, but looks good other than that. I'm sure this will draw some criticism from those who know what they're doing, but it looked to me like it was simply over-shimmed. I cleaned it up, smeared a little grease on it, and reinstalled it with less shim. It seems to have done the trick. I'll get kits for both sides and do them up right on payday.

I decided to rotate the tires and check pressure and see if it had any effect on my wobble. It's a long shot, but it's also free. I figured while it's on stands I'd grab and shake everything I can get my hands on. The right side feels good, but the left front outer axle has half an inch of vertical play. Looks like you guys were right on the money with the steering swivels. I'm sure the swivels are shot and need to be replaced, but is there an interim fix until I can order a kit? It turns out I only have the first half of a service manual. Can someone post up some pages for me? Thanks.

I'll try that. Thanks for answering my ignorant questions!