andy1969

I recently replaced mine with a cheapo DAB set bought online. Cost 60 quid with a magnet mount aerial included. The aerial's up on my roof rack, works really well, I only seem to get signal dropout in places I lost the FM signal anyway.

Any pointers anyone can offer on the following would be much appreciated. Last week my rear wiper intermittently decided to start working even when it was switched off, then the rear demister joined in. Both are now permanently on. Spent Saturday checking connections, removing & taking apart wiper motor. Got it all back together and the wiper seemed to behave itself, demister stayed off for a little while then the warning light came on again. Driving home from the curryhouse this evening and the rear wiper started off again, now the indicators have joined the party too - RH indicators permanently on. Indicator and demist warning lights flicker occasionaly which also causes interference on the radio. Electrics always seems like witchcraft to me, not sure whether I should be looking for a bad earth or power from an ignition feed crossing into the faulty circuits. Not sure if it's significant but the rear wiper won't park - hasn't for ages, taking apart and cleaning the motor hasn't made any difference either.

Are you running on standard springs? I recently changed the springs on my 110 CSW for heavy duty ones which has increased the ride height by about an inch. When changing a u/j on my front prop I noticed that the splines on my sliding joint also peek out the end, they didn't on the original springs.

Yeah, the knock's most prominent when quickly coming on and of the power, tends to be more prominent in lower gears too. Is the backlash easy to check & correct if its wrong?, not done it before.

Had a knock from my 110 CSW for sometime now when coming off and taking up drive. Can't find anything loose, initially I thought it was the usual easy fix suspects and finding wear in the axle drive members and rear prop these have been replaced. The knocking is still there and seems to be getting worse. Recently on a few occasions it's been REALLY bad, knocking repeatedly usually when coasting upto junctions or shifting into low gear - doesn't happen all the time though. My transfer box leaks (suspected intermediate shaft from reading the forums, and also from the rear output shaft seal. Can't feel play in the bearing but I've changed this seal 3 times, latest last weekend (and now the drive flange) yet still it leaks after a few days motoring. I'm keen to get this sorted as the Landy is taking me and the wife to the Isle of Wight in a months time. My transfer box is the prime suspect, with 150,000 miles on it should I be thinking recon unit or is that a drastic solution? - could do without the expense. Am I even looking in the right place for the source of the problem? Any advice gratefully received gents.

Thanks for the advice gents. I'm thinking the clutch drag idea could be it, when I select 1st or try to get reverse the landie rocks very gently forwards or back. I put some grease on the shaft splines but only a little, maybe it wasn't enough. Think I'll give it a little time to see if it improves and check the selector when I get chance. If that doesn't do it I'll probably hand it over to my garage man - haven't the time to muck about pulling the engine again, besides my mate who came round to help me put his back out in the process!

Evening Gents, Having spent my weekend replacing my worn out clutch it's all back together. Before the clutch change the gear shift was notchy but I never had any problem finding the right gear. Now however the notchiness seems a little worse and selecting reverse is a real problem. With the engine off I can run through all forward gears no problem but can't get reverse, moving the gear lever side to side in neutral seems to clear it and I can get reverse. With the engine running I can again select all the forward gears but not reverse not without a real fight and several attempts, 'waggling' the gear lever engine running doesn't clear things. I removed the engine to change the clutch so didn't really interfere with the gearbox, so can't think I've knocked anything. Would a new clutch expose weaknesses in my gearbox this way?, Can't fathom why reverse is now such a fight to get. I'm lost, any advice greatly appreciated.

Greased it all up like a good 'un. My guess is the play in the sliding joint was there before and I just missed it.

I had a clunk on taking up drive for a while so had a look underneath and found a slight amount of play in the diff end u/j on my 110 CSW's rear prop. Changed it for a new one and the clunk dissappeared. That was less than 1000 miles ago and the clunk is back. Had another look, very slight play in the new u/j but also noticed play in the sliding joint, I'd say it's only a couple of mm but there shouldn't be any hould there?. Before I have to tell my wife that I'll be spending yet more money, and another weekend under the Land Rover could some kindly soul confirm my worst fears if needing a new prop, or when I get up in morning will the Land Rover fairy have fixed it?. thankyou gentlemen.

I have 235/85/16 KUHMO ATs on wolf rims, those in the pic look the same size to me.

What he said. A bit of prying and it'll come out.

Had a death wobble on mine recently. Combination of knackered tyres, panhard rod bush, track rod end, shock absorber, and swivel preload too loose.

Replaced a badly leaking bottom seal on mine, lasted about six months.

Had similar thing on my 110 recently, turned out to be a combination of worn panhard rod bush and loose swivel pin bearings.

My R380 has starting doing the exact same thing, also has ATF in. Whats MTF94?.

Thanks guys, will have a prod 'n' a poke this weekend to see whats what.

OK cheers, will give that a go.

Evening all, got a bit of vibration up front and steering wobble over bumps. Damper and panhard rod bushes have already been done a bit ago, rocking the road wheel at 12 & 6 produces play (both wheels). Are my swivel pin bearings stuffed or do they just need adjusting? Cheers

Lesson learned the hard way (again). I promise to stay away from cheap nasty parts in future, to go to bed early, and always eat me greens!. Thanks for the advice gents, anyone got any ideas on a good use for the Britpart clutch sitting in me garage?. Novelty clock maybe?

I suppose what you're saying is, stop being a tight arse Yorkshireman. I'll be getting some Timken one's then. My cheapies came in a kit with the hub oil seal, anyone know the part number for the correct seal? (1994 110 CSW).

Changed my grumbly bearings with cheapy ones. 15,000 miles later, I've got a grumbly one again. Did notice the rear hub oil seal wasn't seated correctly though, and its the inner bearing that sits next to it thats rough. Are cheaper bearings reasonable or not worth bothering with?.

My 300tdi does this too, so does my mates 2.5td, and an old series 2a I had did it!. Must be a common landy thing.

There was a DAYCO belt on it previously that I've changed for a new DAYCO one. Even tried moving the tensioner while the engine was running to see if that eased the noise at all, no difference. The slick 50 idea sounds interested, I'll try anything cos this is driving me nuts. If a collapsing hose did cause line conamination will this cause permanent damage to a pump?.

OK here it is folks. 300tdi, changed PAS pump three times now and the bugger won't run quiet. Stuck a couple of secondhand genuine ones on, bled up OK, ran nice and quiet for about 100 miles or so then whirrs away. Put on a cheapy new one and same again. Noticed a bit of perishing on high pressure hose so thought maybe there could be line contamination, changed all the hoses for new and put pump back on. Nice and quiet for about 100 miles again, then whirrs away. There's a bit of a leak on the box bottom seal other than that the system seems fine and appears to bleed, just refuses to run quietly. Either I've been unlucky enough to have had 3 duff pumps or something else is going on. Been trying to get this licked for weeks!. Any ideas?.

I had a leak in my power steering system which I didn't find until the fluid ran low and the pump made an awful loud whirring noise. Pump seems to work fine but now runs with a definite whirring which has got REALLY annoying. Fitted a brand new pump, this also makes a slight whirring noise. I've bled the system enough for it to be running new fluid (Dexron DII) and can't get rid of the noise. Am I doing something wrong or is it normal for the pump to make noise?.