TimR

Sorted. For the sake of those googling it was as simple as the the plastic shroud around the door locking button coming loose.. so even though the actuator was engaging the mechanism, the mechanism couldn't engage properly. I made sure it was seated properly and hey-presto. Done.

Evening, I have a problem with the central locking on one of the doors on my defender td5 110. Everything seems to work, it clunks, and everything works except for the offside midrow door where the knob goes down but the door doesn't actually lock... I'm not familiar enough with the mechanism to know how it works, anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Thanks all. Thought I would let you know what I found out. After revisiting the wiring I wondered if I had maybe loosened something when I pulled on the loom to repair it - and indeed I had - the wire to the starter. A pushed it back in place and it started first time. HOWEVER the red immobiliser light remains on. Ill go around and check the door switches again but I wonder if the immobiliser unit was damaged when the loom was damaged.. Its a 'for further investigation' but at least it starts now.

Hi, One last try - can someone here please help - or at least help me brainstorm. Vehicle: 96 110 CSW 300tdi Problem: Will not crank. 'Engine immobilised' light (the warning lamp with the picture of a key superimposed over an outline of the vehicle) constantly on. Keyfob(s) inoperative. EKA has no effect. Checked: Fuses in the engine bay Spider (joints re-soldered several months ago). I have tried an improvised 2 wire bypass. No luck - but then given that the 'engine locked' lamp is constantly on so maybe its not the spider at all. Alarm fuse (in the binnacle) And now to muddy the waters.. On a long drive down to England a couple of weeks back a couple of very odd things happened. My spotlights died and 5 minutes later the dashboard led blinked rapidly and constantly and the 'engine-immobilised' light came on. I still had a couple of hours to go and as it was the middle of the night I kept going. The next morning I discovered that the spotlight relay had melted and blown the offside headlight fuse. But it still started. I changed the fuse and fitted a new relay, I also changed the key-fob battery. Shortly after that I discovered that I had no break-lights - another blown fuse. Also the break-light fuses were blowing as soon as I could change them. While trying to sort that out I noticed that the reversing light came on when the ignition was turned on - then it wouldn't start. I had a poke around under the car and almost by luck discovered that the loom had been rubbing on the gearbox. It had severed one wire, and stripped the insulation off of 4 others and they were melted together. I managed to separate and repair them. In an instant the electrics were fine and it started first time. HOWEVER the 'engine-immobilised' light was still on. With all the other blown fuses in mind I decided to look for the alarm/immobiliser fuse and check it (its tucked in behind the ignition switch by the way). Had a look, it was fine. Thought 'sod it', tried to start the engine to park it up and… nothing. That was Sunday. Still nothing today. As mentioned I have tried the EKA to start the engine - it started the second time I tried this - thought 'great maybe the key-fobs have become decoded', turned it off went to get the key-recoding instructions - came back and it wouldn't start again (even with the EKA) So now of course I'm wondering if that was just a coincidence. Over the past couple of days (in the time I have had) I used some instructions (it was actually a picture - though very clear one) to make a spider bypass without luck (though the instructions I found showed a 2-wire bypass but I see the official bypass has 3 wires), I have looked to see if I maybe pulled a wire out while rooting around in the binnacle, tried the EKA method a dozen times but all without success.. So - if anyone can see light through these confused ramblings - please. I could use another head.

On and on and on and on and on it goes... Right - the immobiliser. After fixing the dreaded dry solder joint problem on the Defender 300tdi several months ago all was well however - it seems to have happened again. Symptom - Turn the key to start problem and... distant click of a relay. Thats it. No activity from dashboard led (its simply 'off' ) Warning lamp on dashboard (icon of a key superimposed over an outline of a car) on, and remaining on when ignition is turned. So I'm going to bypass the immobiliser. I know I can buy a bit from my local dealer but as I live in the the middle of nowhere and I'm a bit stuck I would rather like to bypass it myself. As such I would be grateful if someone can tell me how to do this. I gather that it is only a couple of wires that need soldering into place but people are deliberately vague about posting instructions on how its done on the web. Can anyone help? Oh, should add there is a image floating around where someone has made one up for the disco with 2 wires - but I see the official pat has 3 wires) Many thanks. Tim

No one seen this before?

On a long drive from the north of Scotland to yorkshire last week the immobiliser light came on. I'm sure you know the one - left of the warning pannel, the red lamp with a picture of the outline of vehicle with a key. Shortly after the immobiliser LED started to blink rapidly. The engine didn't miss a beat though and it started again as normal when I stopped to fill up. I wondered if was something to do with the key-fob battery so when I got to my destination I changed it. The LED has stopped coming on while blinking the immobiliser light is constantly on. Any ideas? Cheers, Tim 300tdi CSW

Thanks fellers. Far too many -20 somethings over the last couple of years not to have one I think. I'd hate to leave it on so the timer relay would probably be the best option.. but they are expensive!

Thanks Paul and Nigel - that is just what I was hoping for. Tim

Afternoon, A damaged windscreen has given me the opportunity to upgrade to a heated windscreen. However, I realise I need some parts - a couple of relays and a timer I think? Can anyone who has done this recently please tell me what precisely I need. Alternatively, is it possible that the wiring is already in place and I just need to connect it up? Many thanks! 1998 Defender CSW 110 300Tdi.

Evening all. I know some of you have put speakers in your headliner. I'm just wondering how deep it is and if I need slimline speakers? I have a sunroof if it makes a difference.

The trouble with the watering can trick is that while you can see the drips forming in the channel on the inside, you can necessarily see where the water is getting in. I already know 'roughly' where the water is coming in, its just pinpointing it precisely. That said, I think my last assault make have cured it. There was heavy rain over night and no leak this morning. I think Ill give it a few more days of rain before putting the headliner back though..

Its a good call on the front of roof. Although I couldn't see any cracks I have cleaned it and worked some dumdum across the whole width. I have also done the same with all the roof seals up on top - cleaned them and worked dumdum into the joint. I cant see any leaks around the alpine windows but again, a bit of dumdum on the inside has made sure. The actual roof seal (under the gutter is is great shape, but I have checked it very carefully and where it looked like a gap...yep more dumdum! Now I'm just waiting for the rain.. fingers crossed!

Interesting idea, but this is definitely caused by rain (its only happens after it rains) and it has to be somewhere up on the roof, somewhere that causes a leek in that corner. I can see where it is coming out I just don't understand where it is getting in.

Evening all. I have spent months trying to trace a leek behind the headliner on the passenger side of my 110 CSW. It drips in when standing, and when turning a corner there is a small waterfall, usually over the passengers feet (a familiar story). After following advice on the forum and looking at the water ingress manual I'm still stumped. I have resealed the guttering along the length of the passengers side with dum-dum. I have done the same in the corner of the door-frame, I have taped up the roof seams, taped up the sunroof (its the twist opening one so no drainage pipe) sealed the alpine windows, filled the small crack in the windscreen rubber and filled under the lip above the windscreen to be sure - no change. That said, I have had the headliner off and I can see where the water is emerging from but its not from the roof, sunroof or windows.. I'm stumped. Any other suggestions? Pics of where the water is emerging from attached.