autolandy90

hi i have this 2009 but it does not show parts prices, any info please

flexi plate i think when you order a new one now adays they are all one these sometimes crack,theres also the plate on the back of the engine

Mmm just read the post again you got a 200 box if this is the case the baxk plate should bolt straight on the box a got came out of a later discovery and am sure its a 300 one but you will beable to tell if you compaire back plate photos, by the way 300 and 200 back plates are different as the 300 has a separate plate to hold the crank oil sealand the 200 is all one.

I'm sure you have to remove the brass bush in the end of the crankshaft,mmm yes am sure i did. if you want to keep the transer box leavers in the same place you will have to mount then on some sheet metal i use 5mm aloy sheet approx 7 inch long 7 wide(got this off a chap on this site along with other info) This method of fitting the auto box was better for me as every thing under the bonnet is still standard, no cutting of hose wires exhausts and the rest

Flexi plate seen here when fitting the box fit it with the torque convertor inside the box do not bolt it on to the engine first,i stud the box upwades and lowered the torgue convertor on to it ,the gently fitted it as one unit try to move the fly when into position first so you get at least one of the bolts alined thou the starter hole. You have to remove the starter exhaust front bit and cross menber,Iremoved the seats and seat box and fuel tank (the tank only has to come out because of the redrilling of the gear box mounts). I used 2 jacks to do the job and refitted the transfer box afterwards ,im basicully remembering bits and pieces as i go along so this might sound i bit jumbeled up i did do a whole write up on the http://www.landrovernet.com/ , under work in progress 2 years ago but you will need to sign in.

Ithink the auto box is approx 5 inchs longer than the manuel but the back plate is thinner ,so this is why you have to get the prop shafts adjusted. By the way before i done the job i turned the turbo boost up and adjusted the diesal pump, and i think the vehicle went very good indeed,but when you get the auto fitted it eats up the power not as quick off the mark nice when the box gets into top a lot quiter ,but yes it eats into the power and fuel i have just fitted a big inter cooler this week and it seams to help..alittle the last photo shows the corner of the box you have to cut a bit off to refit the exhaust,john

I did this to my 1993 200 about 2 years ago,turned out to be a very easy job took me 4 days about 8 hours aday by my self(mate let me down and i had booked time off work)Any ways you will need a 200 back plate the one that bolts on to the engine i looked all over for a few months then ended up buying a new one off the dealer £175.00 ,You have to redrill the gear box mount approx 5 inchs backwards cutting the rear and front shafts lengthing and shorting easy job (£75 took 2 days to get them done by prop specialst)Make sure when you get the box you also get flexi plate torque converter gear shifter and cable.You will also need a small oil cooler and hose.also kick down cable and brackets for pump,john

Hi hope you get the brake sorted,any photos of your 100inch and more info of biuld, alway intrested in 100inch.

got this one off ebay its off a army v8 landrover,but as already said also change the transferbox flange

Hi guys ,i think in my case it was much easier to do it this way,the prop shafts had to be removed to get the box out so they went straight in the wifes car and the garage adjusted them ,picked them up the next day and ready to fit once again. Also the gearbox mount ,simple just redrill six holes. The only bit of fabrication was mounting the high/low leaver on a bit of 5mm plate. If i had moved the engine forward this would have ment new mounts and i have no welder, Also all the wiring glow plugs ,pump,temp sender would have had to be extended not a big job but more work. The fuel pipe to the pump would also need lengthing. Also the exhaust front pipe would need extending to match up.and top and bottom radiator hoses would have to be shortened inter cooler pipes shortened,may be fan cowl removed. I think also the engine would be close to the air filter and the steering box. Lots of job, so i think 6 holes drilled and 2 props adjusted with a bunch of spanners and 2 jacks much easier in this case.

Back again,when i got my box it came with everything ,apart from adaptor plate. You will need the autobox torque convertor flexi plate ,adaptor plate,gearlinkages,oil cooler and pipes. The 300 tdi auto box is approx 5inches longer than the manuel 200 box so you have to redrill the gearbox mounts,you also have to reduce the length of the rear prop by about 5inches and increase the length of the front. Fitting the box is so easy and once fitted you will have to fit a oil cooler i got a 16 fin one of ebay and some pipe from a hydrolic place much cheaper than landrovers oil cooler and pipes. You will also have to reposition the hi/low diff lock leaver i fitted it on a peace of alloy plate so it fitted in the correct place on the tunnel as the box sits further back,i also used the same tunnel no change to that needed. Almost forgot to say you have to grinde the corner off the adaptor plate so it does not hit the exhaust (picture). More pictures one of the chassis showing holes off old and new gearbox mounts

Hi i have a 200tdi auto,that started life as a manuel ,did the whole job my self took 4 long days .get your self a 300 tdi auto and gearlinkage. You will have to get an adapter plate from a disc 200 auto they made a feww 200 autos,i looked for one for awhile but could not find one so got one from the dealer,its now classed as a classic part at around £175. You will also need kick down brackeds for pump but these are cheap.Am a bit stuck for time at min but can post some more info later

mmm. i think a 3 speed is a massive advantage over the landrover pushpull leaver as resistance in the leaver biulds up and fan performace will suffer,try a ohms reading and the fan end.

there is an increase in motor speed and with the push pull leaver the power only goes though 2 resistors,now its going though 3 and final speed, speed3, has less resistance so motor faster,much much better i think.

anyone know how to reset the speedo back to no mile as the one i have is showing 45,887miles,cheers