dave t

the fluttering is the turbo modulator cutting in and out, mine does the same and it just proves its doing its job, maintaining boost. If you take the small pipe from the intercooler pipe and run it directly to the wastegate actuator you will see the boost needle will not flicker because the wastegate will let a bit of boost past quite early allowing it to look smooth but you will notice a difference in performance. Think of the turbo modulator as an electronic "dawes device" http://dawes-devices.com/

The problem with a lot of the cheap Chinese intercoolers on the bay is they have cast end cans which hold onto the heat much more than desired and the core is sometimes not welded its glued I guess you get what you pay for. I umm and arr'd for ages about which one to get and in the end paid the money and got a proper full width one, and as disco al says "I couldnt recommend one enough"

In my opinion the same place replacement ones are not worth it, I had a brunel one fitted to a classic range rover with the pump already tweaked and it didnt make any difference at all. I now have an allard one fitted to my air con disco 1 it fits across the front of the car infront of the aircon rad and it makes a much better performance improvement as long as the fueling is set to match it. at the risk of stating the obvious an intercooler upgrade on its own wont improve performance, it may even reduce it if you leave the fueling standard. bottom line, the bigger and more efficient the intercooler the more you can turn up the fueling and the more performance you will get (as long as you watch egt's)

thats an interesting point, I noticed the drop in boost pressure when I backed off the fueling but didnt notice a drop in rpm! will have to have a play with that

Mine only peaks at 24psi very occasionally most of the time it runs at about 12psi, I can cruise the motorway at 80mph at about 2900rpm and boost is at 12 psi. If I overtake boost goes up to about 20-22psi and Im past the car in front and back down to 12psi. I dont tow or carry heavy loads so most of my driving is on very light throttle and fuel economy is very good at around 35mpg i though it was the other way around, if you underfuel the boost you get more air than fuel so the EGTs are lower, there is a lot of stuff on this on the Aussie forum I can certinally alter boost pressure by changing the fuelling. example if it will boost up to 30 psi turn the main fuel screw back a quarter of a turn and I will only get about 22-24psi I am only a newbie at all of this but its an interest of mine hence the experiments cheers

I think its more the standard turbo rather than the engine itself that wont take the boost its too small and will become inefficient causing lots of heat. The big vnt will handle the high boost easily and as long as its not overfueled it shouldnt get too hot. I know somebody running 30 psi on a vnt 300tdi and has been for about a year and he races his truck. But like i said time will tell, if im on here looking for a good second hand engine you will guess whats happend )) How long have you been running 20 psi?

I am sorry I dont know its just something someone told me. I will see if I can find the number on the unit. I just know its a fantastic unit it just transforms the performance of the 300 tdi

the turbo I have fitted is from Allard which is a garret turbo from a merc sprinter I believe. I have been playing with the boost and at stock boost there doesnt seem to be much increase in power but its spread over the whole rev range and there is no lag if you up the fueling. I have run (for short bursts only ) 30psi and fueling to match and it absolute flies but that is too much boost for longevity, the turbo will handle it but probably not the engine. I am now running about 24pisi at WOT at 3500rpm which is ok as long as it doesnt sit there all day. At stock the boost limitations are more about the stock turbo, the motor can take a bit more, only time will tell if I am right or not! the reason for my post, I would like to swap experiences with others who have a vnt fitted cheers Dave

Is anyone running a vnt turbo on a 300 tdi? and if so what boost are you running? thanks Dave

you could just give the rim a rub down and a fresh coat of paint, cheap and shiney!!

I saw an advert in one of the mags for four little fittings that you fit into the airbag feed line that enabled you to inflate each bag with any small pump or compressor or a garage airline. this would take away the complexity of the system and alleviate the need for height sensors and suchlike, you could adjust pressure with a foot pump but not on the move! as another poster has said RRC airbags and mounts will fit straight in front and back if you want

I am a bit confused about "wheel offset" its stated that a wheel has say 30 offset what does that actually mean? and is the offset sticking out from the centre line of the hub or is it sticking in? sorry for the dumb questions but I want to widen the track on my disco 1 and would rather do it with wheels than spacers! thanks Dave

Also when i asked bell about boost he didnt know the figure so i asked turbo techinics (who make the turbos) and they told me 0.8bar which for me is not enough. I can adjust the boost on the Allard one- Also if i ever get round to fitting a td5 engine in my disco the turbo can be swapped across with a suitable manifold, you cant do that with the bell one My intercooler is a front mounted allard one . as i have aircon the intercooler sits right in the front. Intercoolers that go in the origional slot are a waste of time and money in my opinion , as an upgrade I mean.

yes kit comes complete and bolts straight in including mating to original exhaust

The price is negotiable I was going to go for the bell autos one which is 300 tdi specific manifold so dead easy to fit but its not versatile enough for me and some of my questions couldnt be answered, its about £1200 delivered with new manifold ends, the allard price is about the same and is very easy to fit.. I went for the Allard one as they are local to me and Allard has forty years experience of tuning diesels and he could answer all my questions My disco is now very different, its smooth , powerful and very flexible, overtaking is a breeze and 90mph come up very quickly (on a private road :0) disco is now faster than my chipped td5 was

Its an Allard kit and its fantastic!

ok I might be wrong here but if you operate the throttle without the diaphram in place the pin will fall out, I would check to make sure it isnt in the bottom of the diaphram chamber also worth checking the boost hose to the pump might be coincidence but they do split sometimes and if there is no boost to the pump it with underfuel HTH Dave

How does the d1 v8 compare to the d2 v8 in terms of drivability/comfort? I realise the obvious differences like size and stuff but I am considering getting a v8 on lpg and was trying to weigh up between the last of the d1's or an early d2 thanks Dave

I have been adding 2st oil now on a regular basis, about 200mls to 50 quids worth of derv and I can definitely say the engine runs much better, quieter and smoother especially at tickover and at cruising at around 60-70mph. Dont notice any improvement in economy, I seem to get 30mpg more or less whatever I do. My disco is fitted with an allard intercooler, pump is tweaked, de-egred and decatted. my opinion, its as powerful and as quiet as my chipped td5 was cheers Dave

I have been thinking about doing this but how do you connect the acc pedal to the engine? will the td5 pedalbox fit the 300 tdi? I reckon I would be a nice conversion, the td5 is a good motor once all the niggles are sorted

I have read that the 200 tdi is more economical than the 300 tdi with some owners reporting up to 40 mpg. What is the reason for this improved economy or is it a myth? thanks Dave

Thanks for your help its been very informative. I will post a pic of the key as soon as I get my camera back. Last question. If I lock with the fob and then somehow that stops working can I unlock and start the car with the key?

Yes I now have three keys all with the same blade profile and all work ignition, doors and filler cap. Two are the indent plastic type and one is the small plastic top, only that key makes the indicators flash all the time!!! I have two fobs (two button) and one works perfectly the other doesnt work at all. When I lock with the fob the alarm sets itself as It should. not really sure what happens when I lock with a key, other than the doors seem to lock . Do the keys have any electrics inside? and does the fob need to be next to the ignition?

Ok tried soaking the locks in wd40 for a few hours and now the ignition key will open and lock the drivers door so you were right they were just seized up (doh!!) now I have two different types of key one is a heavy plastic headed one and it opens and closes the door no bother and starts the car, but the other key has a lightweight plastic head and when I use this the indicators flash continuously even after switching off and taking the key out any ideas why? sorry for all these question but I dont have a handbook where I suspect all the locking information is

I have an ignition key and a fuel filler cap key which work but not in the doors. I was looking for a way to get a key that matches the doors, I don't mind if its different from the ignition key as long as it works but I would prefer to have a key that fits door and ignition so is there a number somewhere that will allow me to purchase new keys or can a locksmith cut keys to suit? I don't really want to start changing locks/barrells Thanks Dave