fatforbes

Thanks for the reply. Is there any way of accessing the top side of the rear bolts? It looks like theres a couple of small panels in the pick up bed near the tailgate that could be removed? Thanks

Recently purchased a G-reg hi-cap 2.5td. When I bought it it only had a dribble of fuel in and when I got home an filled it started dripping from the tank. I can't see any damage because the cover is in the way. So I went to remove the tank and found 2(new and shiny) bolts at the front (engine) end of the tank and the back,where I thought there would be bolts are two blobs of weld?? I'm guessing this isn't normal? If I do manage to remove the tank and it needs replacing, is the tank on a hi-cap specifically made for a hi-cap or is it the same on a 110? Thanks

Just another quick question. I just jacked both rear wheels off the ground to check wheel bearings etc..and for some reason, even though the handbrake was on I could turn both wheels and the propshaft wasn't rotating? I'm pretty sure that it's a salisbury rear axle. I don't understand???

Thanks for the response. I'm only using the hi-cap to cart stuff about off road so I'm not looking to spend vast amounts of money, which might be the case looking at 200/300tdi engines on ebay. Is it worth thinking about a 2.5d engine? I also have a daihatsu fourtrak engine, but is that more complicated? Thanks

I've just purchased a g-reg 2.5td Defender high capacity and have a few questions. I find the engine seriously lacking power, any hill and it dies very quickly. Is this normal? and if not what common problems should I be looking for? I've been told the 2.5td is not a very good engine. I'm used to driving a 300tdi 90 so perhaps I was expecting too much. How difficult is it to convert to a 200 or 300tdi? Thanks

Just did some research and found that it's on ebay and finished tomorrow(wasn't told this), so it will probably make more than I'm willing to pay, bummer. Seller wasn't there but I think he wanted around £600. here it is http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1983-LAND-ROVER-88-4-CYL-BLUE_W0QQitemZ250770466160QQcategoryZ29748QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp5197.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7086602005820102327#ht_500wt_1156

Had a look at an A reg series today. It's a petrol, chassis is good had new outriggers, alternator,HT leads and front prop and it started straight away with no smoke. Bulkhead and doors have some corrosion but not too bad, front n/s wing is a bit battered and it doesn't have any MOT/tax. It has also has an overdrive (not sure if these are standard). Not sure how much the guy is asking yet so what should I offer for it?? Cheers

Having a bit of trouble with my 96 defender 300tdi. It's having some trouble starting, it takes 4 or 5 attempts to get it going, it sounds like it wants to go but instantly dies. I have checked all the glow plugs and only 1 needed replacing which I've done. It doesn't seem to matter if it's hot or cold. Any ideas?? I'm also having trouble with the steering. The steering box was leaking from what I think is the rack & pinion adjuster (big flat bladed screw driver fitting on the side of the box) so I removed it and put some PTFE tape on then put it back again but since I did that I can't get my steering right, It's either floaty and all over the road or feels like I've got cement in the steering system. The box is only 2 years old and it's a reconditioned one.

Cheers! will they fit on the alloys??

What size tyre can I fit on a standard disco1 alloy?? It's for a 90, I've currently got 7.50 R 16 avon rangemasters on standard rims but I'm gonna get some Bf goodrich AT that are a similar size to the 7.50 R16s, what is a similar sie that will fit on the alloys?? Thanks

Hello, I replaced my steering box 2 years ago with a reconditioned unit and it has already started leaking! It's leaking from the output shaft, how difficult is it to replace the seal or seals in situ?? And is there a guide on doing it anywhere?? Also, my difflock light hasn't been working so I've replaced the sensor but still no light?? I've also checked the dash light which is working fine..any ideas?? It's a 1996 300tdi 90. Cheers

The alloys will fit, the only other thing is that the tyres are tubed, does this matter?

oh yeah its for a '96 90!

This may be a stupid question! Ive got some avon rangemaster tyres but they're on very tired wheels, but ive also got some discovery1 alloys, will the tyres fit on the alloys??? tyres are 7.5R16.

A friend of mine is embarking on a project to change his 90 n-reg 300tdi engine for a P6 3.5L v8 engine. Has anyone got any experience of doing this? What problems are likely to occur?? I guess the engine mounts will have to be moved and a gearbox conversion plate is needed? Any help would really help before the project gets started, Many thanks

I did check the height of the pistons when I had the head off and noticed that the 2nd and 3rd piston noticeably protrude more than the 1st and 4th when at TDC, but didn't think much of it because it wasn't a problem with the old head. Is this the likely cause? and if so whats the solution??? Many thanks

I didn't know where to put this topic so I thought I'd post it in the defender forum and hope for the best! I've got a Case cx50 digger with a 4cyl OHV Kubota engine and its got some problems. A few months ago it badly overheated and just kept dieing, so I removed the head to find that it was had very bad water damage and was cracked in a few places. So I purchased a second hand complete cylinder head and fitted all new gaskets. After fitting this it will now run and doesn't overheat but it has a nasty knocking noise and won't idle smoothly, it dies back and every time it knocks puffs of smoke come out of the exhaust in time with the knocking. It will run for about 10minutes then the revs will die right back then pick up again, it will do this for a while then eventually stall. The knocking sounds very metallic, its almost more of a tapping/slapping noise but very loud (if that makes sense) and to me sounds like its only coming from 1 cylinder but im not too sure. Ive removed the head to try and see if anything looked wrong but couldn't see anything obvious. The tappets are all adjusted correctly, so im a bit stuck so any help would be greatly appreciated! Apologies for posting in the wrong Forum/ website

Thanks for the replies. Well I mean am I going to gain anything from getting uprated gear such as drilled n grooved discs? The standard discs and pads I use seem to be ok although they do get very hot at times, I just want to know if I'm going to notice any big difference by spending a few extra £'s on some uprated discs and/or pads? I've got to change my discs soon anyway so I thought i'd do a little research before I spend my money. Thanks for the help

Im looking into getting some uprated brakes for my 90. I do a lot of towing so just want something thats gonna give a bit more. There seems to be a lot on the market so just wanted to know if anyone has any recommendations? Thanks

Had a bit of an accident and somehow my wheel nuts came loose and I lost a wheel, luckily I was only doing 30mph and felt that something wasn't right before it happened, anyway I think i mashed the wheel bearings and i've gone to replace them today and can't remove the hub. the caliper, both big nuts and the outer spacer are off but the spacer thats just infront of the bearing won't budge, even after much hammering and using a puller theres no movement. what can I do??

I used to get a problem similar to this and it turned out to be my diesel pump timing. but it could be water burning due to the head gone or the valve stem seals letting oil through or faulty injector/s. my local diesel place tests injectors for free so that could be a wise place to start. process of elimination really, sorry I couldn't be more specific

my 300tdi 90 has developed this weird noise at high revs which I think is probably turbo related but im not too sure. I can hear the turbo whistle and then as I push through the revs i hear this sound which sounds a bit like a belt saw cutting wood or a toothed belt rubbing, hard to explain, but its high pitched. the odd thing is i can only hear it whilst moving, if i rev when stationary I cant hear it at all just the turbo whistle. my intercooler does have a tiny hole in it and thought it could be that? any ideas?

well Ive tried that method and it seemed to work ok with a bit of pushing an shoving but today i've put the doors on and they're severely on the tiddle. So i'm pretty sure that the bulkhead isn't sitting straight so now I've got to loosen all the bulkhead fittings and get it right and I thought I was almost done!

I'm changing my hard top for a truck cab and I'm having a few problems fitting the truck cab. I can't seem to get the roof to sit down on the windscreen properly. I've put as many nuts n bolts on as i can but just loose and tried to get it all to sit straight but no luck. It seems like either the windscreen is too far back or the rear of the truck cab is too far forward. any ideas anyone?? The only things i've changed to do the swap is the 2 large bolts on either side of the center bulkhead. Oh and this is part of my rebuild on a galv chassis so I've had everything off so I guess this would affect this.

Thanks for the reply. Managed to get around the problem using some old series 2 truck cab mounts that I had lying around. Just chopped them shorter re-threaded them and they work a treat. Thanks again